Gas Tank Repair

[graniterover]

I got an estimate for $75 to 'boil' a tank at a radiator shop. I got it back and someone had scraped the outside rust resistant coating off, and the painted it black. The inside was still crappy. The bill was $275. I then ordered a new 'replacement' tank and had it shipped directly to the repair place working on my car (not a rover). The 'new' tank turned out to be a 'refurb' tank and was still full of Sh*t.

The lesson for me was either:

1. Do it yourself and get it right or
2. Buy a replacement with piece of mind from a reputable dealer with a warranty

Sounds like your issues might be minor though.

If I were you, on this truck, I'd sell the old tank and let the buyer know it has a leak but is rust free, and I'd buy a new tank. Piece of mind must be worth a bit on this project.

[greenmeanie]

I used the POR15 stuff on my 109 tank that was leaking in a similar fashion. It gets expensive for if it is to really work you have to clean the inside very, very well. The fuel varnish stops many things sticking properly.

It worked very well but was a real skiddle of an operation. You have to use the marine clean stuff first, rinse, metal ready stuff, rinse, let it dry very well and then put in the sealer which is like a silver paint. Each step requires lots of agitation to make sure you get all the internal surfaces. I think the neighbours thought I had finally lost it as I stood in the driveway shaking a fuel tank and screaming to myself for most of a weekend.

I'd most likely pay the money to have the rad shop boil it out and redkote it next time.

[Rineheitzgabot]

Jac,

If you are going to have to empty the tank, and dry it completely, I would recommend welding the spot, or area, on the outside. After the area has been repaired/welded, clean said area very well, with a wire wheel, removing all slag/buildup of paint dust/other grime. Make sure everything is tight, and figure a way to compress air in the tank (this does not have to be fancy, just using a wet rag, around the end of your air nozzle with a tight grip). Pour soapy water over the area while it is compressed with air. Look for leaks. Do this several times.

We manufacture industrial equipment that is powered hydraulically. The tanks are anywhere from 30 to 100 gallons. About 3 out of every 40 tanks come to us with some sort of leak, just like you are describing; right around the bung (not where the plug is threaded, but where it is welded?). This is how we do it.

Of course, if you don't have access to welding EQ, then nevermind. My apologies if this is obvious, and you have elected to not do it. However, it is probably the cheapest, most reliable method.

That thing is looking great, and I wish I had the time and patience to do what you have done.

-Gary

[jac04]

^^ The problem is finding where the fuel is coming from. I obviously know where the leak is manifesting itself, but somehow the fuel is getting in between the 2 bottom plates.

[Rineheitzgabot]

Sorry. I misunderstood.

[bmohan55]

^^ So you repaired it from outside? What did you do, just pack the area around the drain with the JB Weld?

yes, not pretty but it works...so far.

However, my truck is in a totally different class (a rolling resto) than yours so what is acceptable to me may not be for you.

[kevkon]

You might want to try a product we have used with good results on motorcycle tanks;http://www.kbs-coatings.com/Auto-Fue...-Kit_p_34.html.

[jac04]

I just got a quote from PA Blanchard. They have 2 new Genuine military tanks available, but they are 395 pounds each - that's roughly $635 each!!!! OUCH!!

They also have Dutch military heavy duty tanks that are around $400 each. I'm trying to get an accurate shipping quote. I'll keep everyone posted.

In the mean time, I'll be researching the best tank sealer.........

[leafsprung]

Whats wrong with fixing it? The cradle is soldered to the tank. Separate them, fix the rust/hole etc and solder it back together. Way better than putting chewing gum over the top . . .

[jac04]

^^ On my tanks, the cradle is spot welded to the bottom of the tank - the spot welds can be seen from both the inside & outside of the tank. There is also some type of gooey sealent in between them.