Anyone got a trick to get the gasket that goes onto the rear main bearing cap in place without ripping it all to shreds? It's that silly T looking gasket that goes right onto the rear main cap before assembly.
The assembly part has me befuddled.
Overdrive
Assembling the rear main bearing cap
Anyone got a trick to get the gasket that goes onto the rear main bearing cap in place without ripping it all to shreds? It's that silly T looking gasket that goes right onto the rear main cap before assembly.
The assembly part has me befuddled.
3rd Gear
My thumb is still bleeding!
Kevin
04 XJ8
92 RRC
02 Benz E320
95 RRC (sold 5/10)
72 Series 3 (sold 4/10)
70 Series 2A (sold 6/10)
Morgan +8 (sold 8/09)
90 Jetta (308k miles) (sold 5/11)
72 Triumph Stag (sold 1/08
Overdrive
I always find that once I start bleeding, that's when things start going together the way they should. What were we doing wrong???Originally Posted by kevin-ct
My thumb is still bleeding!
Maybe we needed a bigger hammer.
5th Gear
What I did, and I must have been lucky, as it worked the first time. install T's with a light application of aviation form-a-gasket (doesn't dry completely). Light smear of silicone sealant on the block portion and install made before it dries (lubes so it can slide without tearing).
The t seals must be trimmed so they stand prod slightly when installed in the slot (~1/16"). A dab of silicone RTV or Form-a-gasket stuff where the bottom of the T seal will rest on the block.
Use two thin pieces of sheet metal to aid in sliding the block with t's and goop to get it started into the space. Once they are started to enter the space and the T' are not caught, gently slide in place. Resistance to bottoming should be felt from the bottom of the T's slightly protruding. You may even want to peer into the bottom of the block for a look for these before it bottoms, just to be sure.
Once bottomed and in place, the T's will compress, and the sealant will give it an extra hand to seal up into to the corners.
Good luck
Overdrive
Thanks gudjeon. Do you remember what the thin pieces of metal sheet were? We attempted pretty much what you describe with some thin feeler guages but they were too thick to do both sides at once. I'm looking at my can of PBR right now and wondering if it would be thin enough to fit on both sides of the cap as we slid it in.
5th Gear
Yeah thin, almost like pop (or beer if you like) can thin.
2nd Gear
The Haynes "restoration" book shows 2 tapered blocks that bolt and for a lead in...
Pics here...
http://picasaweb.google.com/88series...eat=directlink
...TJR
Overdrive
Yeah, I know. It would be nice to have all the right tools.
Thanks for the pictures but I have to ask, what year is that book?
2nd Gear
The pics are from this book
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-3...-i-ii-iii.aspx
Published early 90's and reprinted later a few times.
..Talbot
Low Range
Wedges
Make your own blocks fron some mild steel. I used 1 inch 1/4 thick mild steel, drilled holes to suit, carefully ground a bevel and filed a round over to remore the sharp edge. If you drill the holes slightly oversized you can adjust the wedges to slide exactly to the edge before bolting them in place. Lube it well and there you have it!!!
I did this years ago but I don't think it took more than about a half hour to make.
Cheers
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