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Thread: best way to remove and replace clutch and brake master cylinder

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006

    Default best way to remove and replace clutch and brake master cylinder

    well I am going to rebuild my brake and clutch master cylinder started to leak in cold weather any tips tricks on removing these and any tips on adjusting units before I re-install,, do not want to remove the wing want to do thru inside.
    Thanks for the tips

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006


    with a lhd ya really gotta think about removing the wing for the clutch m/c. i did mine with the wing in place and it sucked. did it with the wing off and could not believe i ever thought that leaving the wing on the first time was the thing to do. but i had folks here giving me this advice and i didn't heed it. so how ever ya get 'em off is your call. but once off i marked the threaded shaft of the plungers so that reassembly didn't require adjustment once the units were back in the truck.
    '64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
    '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
    '76 Spitfire 1500
    '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Jacksonville, FL and Maine


    I would 2nd that you should remove the wing. Unless you have a whole bunch of stuff attached to the wing and it thus turns that into a major job, removing the wing makes clutch mastercylinder replacement WAY easier on a LHD model.

    RHD model, probably still helpful but not as much.

    1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
    1965 109 SW - nearly running well
    1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
    1969 109 P-UP

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006


    Removing the wing really isn't that hard.
    The Goat, 2.8 Daihatsu Td, '73 coil conversion

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Bethlehem, PA

    Default Pop the wing off

    Wing removal. It's only a few bolts at the bulkhead and a few at the breakfast IIRC and disconnecting the wires for the lights in the wing then it lifts right off. You'll save time and frustration by removing the wing then by performing the operation with it in place.

    Not sure what you meant by...

    do not want to remove the wing want to do thru inside
    because you can't remove the masters from the inside. Even easier still is after wing removal to pull the whole pedal assembly and remove/rebuild on the bench.

    Most of all have fun!
    1968 Series IIA-"Ronnie"
    88" SW, 2.25L Petrol, LHD

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Union ME


    I'm sure he meant through the inside of the bay, not the interior.

    Greg, ,give me a ring. I'll gladly walk you through anything that you may run into....

    On a side note, are you sure it was brake fluid leaking? I ask because the seal around the pedal box can be shot, and we did have snow/wet weather..... I'm just asking?....
    knowledge without experience is just information.... Mark Twain

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Pinehurst, NC


    take the wing off. might not be impossible to do without taking off the wing, but it will be a hell of a lot easier to just take it off (i replaced mine last year). also if you have been leaking fluid in there then taking off the wing will allow you to clean up the area where the leakage occurred and repaint that area. just my $.02.

    Dan in NC
    1966 Land Rover Series IIA
    109" NADA 6 cylinder #34300083A

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Windham, Maine


    I'll vouch for taking the wing off making this easy-peasy. And while its off, check the adjustment on your steering box too - frst time I ever did that with no knuckle damage!
    '72 88" - daily driver
    '64 109 SW - project in waiting

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Brewer, Maine


    When I replaced my clutch MC I removed the cover to the steering box, the mudguard and unbolted the fender at the bulkhead. That allowed me to pull the wing out far enough to remove the clutch pedal assembly as a complete unit. I used a dial caliper to measure the length of the rod on the old MC I put the new MC in setting the rod length to be the same as the old one. Reinstalled everything which included replacing the hard line to the slave. Except for putting a kink in the flex line to the slave, which took me some time to figure out what I had done, everything worked wonderfully. If I had to do it all again I'd probably take off the entire wing as my method only saved removing 3 nuts at the front of the truck and unplugging the wiring. My brake MC was simpler as I replaced the servo at the same time as the MC.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Columbus, Ohio, USA


    Just did this job in cold rain a couple of months ago. Pretty easy once you've done it and are looking back at the job. Advice:


    Maybe if you've tiny gymnast hands or are an octopus you can do it with it on, but that's just rediculous. The wing is held on by 3 bolts to the breakfast area, two down along the outside near the bottom, and one or two the frame just under the clutch MC area. You'll also need to remove the access panel that guards the bottom of the clutch mc area. that's a few bolts accessable from inside your vehicle under the pedals. Don't stare at it and let it daunt you - just start undoing bolts and within 10-20 minutes you'll be completely wing free. And in any case, you've got to have your ratchets out to remove the floorboards and tranny tunnel to get to the clutch SC.

    I'm greatful for all of the awesome input everyone gives on here - but I have to admit I really wish I had never read that you can do the cluch MC without removing the wing. It planted that idea of "it can be done easier" in my mind, when had I just buckled down and removed the wing in the first place I would have been able to do the job in 1/2 the time.

    Just advice from a noob that did the job in the cold rain...
    Last edited by amcordo; 12-31-2009 at 12:36 PM. Reason: Update.

    1973 Land Rover Series III 109 Station Wagon
    Chevy V8 Conversion
    Galvanized everything (except frame)

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