I also did a SPH rebuild on my '69 IIA. The driver's side has had a wobbly wheel for what seems like years- it made getting inspection stickers a matter of pleading with mechanics that it wasn't that serious. I finally tore into it and got a new kingpin driven into my existing steering arm. This has old steering arms which sit on top of the housings. A new swivel ball, bearings, seals and sundries. Very satisfying to feel that front wheel now sitting as solid as a rock. I also made the acquaintance of a local garage that has a press and will do bearings and so forth essentially for free.
I have a set of the leather gaiters on order- what are people's opinions on those? I had an old set on there and the balls under them were pitted and rusty; are they actually causing more damage than they are preventing?
Tom
Tom
1969 Series IIA 88"
I like it because I understand how it works (mostly).
Using truck to move rocks that are going to be used to rebuild a stone wall on my property, back of my 88 can hold 8-10 large stones, and 20-30 smaller stones
Changed the hydraulic parts of the clutch system and boy did it need it. Though the fluid up on top of the reservoir looked nice and clean there was quite a bit of sludge at the bottom. I also took a chunk of some seal out of the master cylinder reservoir . . . not quite sure how it got in there!
The sludge at the bottom
The solid piece of whatever . . . maybe it was trying to make a new seal . . .
What the fluid near the bottom looked like eeewwwwwww!
1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
1965 109 SW - nearly running well
1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
1969 109 P-UP
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Ref the gaiters, depends on where you are. In the salt belt, if they get torn they retain all that nasty stuff and it festers away. Though, if they are looked after and kept supple with dubbin or leather softener, they can keep the corrosive stuff at bay. Long and short, yes - a good idea but need to be attended to (along with all the other items -topping up, adjusting, cleaning etc).
Les Parker
Tech. Support and Parts Specialist
Rovers North Inc.
Top up, 90W in swivel balls, rear, and front diff, gearbox, and transfer box. Making ready to change crankcase oil after a run to the local auto store for the appropriate oil. Also cleaned a couple of months worth of Terrier slobber from all five rear windows in atop the tub, this enjoyable physical arm activity takes nearly an hour as the two Terriers have what seems to be industrial strength, long lasting, viscous, thick, oral slobber that only goes away with lots of Windex, and a copious amount of arm motion. Now I can see through them again.
and blanked off extraneous openings. Had inside of tank epoxied.
Began the refurb of an FFR gas tank.
Drained old varnish, removed tank, - washed with phosphoric acid and chains. Viewed hundreds of pinholes from inside.
Procured new side fill tank - had top fill cap cut off of old tank and soldered to new tank. Blanked off other filler holes.
Resurrected 24V. fuel sender. Drilled out rivet holding spade terminal, listed out wire wound resistor, unwound 2 turns, reinserted resistor, inserted new spade terminal (swedge fit), and re-soldered.
Next steps: Add replacement float and arm, repair fuel line pickup
Installed new,upgraded alternator.
And it works!
I drove it !!
Sad to say but I hadn't driven my Series III since last December except for a short trip for its State inspection at the end of April. Today I was determined to start and use it again. It started on the first turn and I drove it out of the woods were it had been parked, gave it a good wash and then took it out for a drive.
I know it's a sacrilege to have treated it this way, but I promise to try and do better for the rest of the year.