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Thread: Injection Pump Returns!

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Brewer, Maine
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    1,379

    Default

    I have a 2.5 NA in my 88 and wouldn't trade it for anything. So to each his own.
    Jim

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by VTRover View Post
    The 2.5 NA is a frigging boat anchor. EVERY Rover publication you can find says the same thing. The motor is hopeless. It sucks for wheeling, it sucks for on-road use. I've had three 2.5 NA engines - from new, to re-built to ex-MOD engines from the first Gulf War. Let's get real, this motor SUCKS.
    I'll bet you have a fake moustache
    Matt Browne
    www.overlandengineering.com
    "resurecting junk through engineering"

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Concord, Va
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    Quote Originally Posted by junkyddog11 View Post
    I'll bet you have a fake moustache
    classic.... MB...just classic

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
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    101

    Default Crankshaft main seal

    Now that I have all the piece parts necessary to reassemble my engine I was wondering about the crankshaft main seal. As you can see from the picture, it looks pretty clean in there (I've not cleaned anything), but it comes under the "While I'm in there" category.
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/3127781...n/photostream/

    Is it simply a matter of pulling the crankshaft gear and pulling out the old seal with a screwdriver (Drain oil first???)? I've got the seal already but I'm paranoid about keeping everything lined up for timing. Hoping to have time this weekend to put the injection pump, water pump, lift pump, belt, belt tensioner all back on and if it's really that simple I guess I should replace the seal.
    Thanks,
    Geoff

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    The Granite State (NH)
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeoffWillis View Post
    Now that I have all the piece parts necessary to reassemble my engine I was wondering about the crankshaft main seal. As you can see from the picture, it looks pretty clean in there (I've not cleaned anything), but it comes under the "While I'm in there" category.
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/3127781...n/photostream/

    Is it simply a matter of pulling the crankshaft gear and pulling out the old seal with a screwdriver (Drain oil first???)? I've got the seal already but I'm paranoid about keeping everything lined up for timing. Hoping to have time this weekend to put the injection pump, water pump, lift pump, belt, belt tensioner all back on and if it's really that simple I guess I should replace the seal.
    Thanks,
    Geoff
    Wow. That IS clean!

    If you bought the pump timing kit, I suspect that it included the pin to lock the flywheel in place.

    It doesn't really matter, because it isn't too difficult to time everything using the marks on the cog wheels and on the timing case even if things DO get moved around a bit. (unfortunately, I know this first-hand). You've got to time it up to reinstall the injector pump anyway, right?

    Looking at the bible, I'd say that the biggest PITA is removing and replacing the seal with the crankshaft in the way. Probably have to get just the right size pipe to install the new seal, unless you have special tool 18G1456 lying around.

    BTW...I wouldn't worry too much about draining the oil--It's all in the sump below the crankshaft anyway.
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

  6. #16

    Default

    yes, replace the seal. You'll be really bummed if you put this all back together and the $xx.xx (cheap) part fails and contaminates the timing belt and you have to go back in and do it all again.
    Its easier if you pull the front cover off (the one that the IP bolts onto) and you'll run less chance of damaging the end of the crank with the digging impliment used to pry out the seal. Re gasket that all while you are at it. Keep track of which fasteners go where.
    Matt Browne
    www.overlandengineering.com
    "resurecting junk through engineering"

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
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    101

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SafeAirOne View Post
    Wow. That IS clean!

    If you bought the pump timing kit, I suspect that it included the pin to lock the flywheel in place.

    It doesn't really matter, because it isn't too difficult to time everything using the marks on the cog wheels and on the timing case even if things DO get moved around a bit. (unfortunately, I know this first-hand). You've got to time it up to reinstall the injector pump anyway, right?

    Looking at the bible, I'd say that the biggest PITA is removing and replacing the seal with the crankshaft in the way. Probably have to get just the right size pipe to install the new seal, unless you have special tool 18G1456 lying around.

    BTW...I wouldn't worry too much about draining the oil--It's all in the sump below the crankshaft anyway.


    Thanks for the quick reply, few questions:
    1) I know this first-hand). You've got to time it up to reinstall the injector pump anyway, right?
    What exactly does that mean? I carefully scribed lines in the injection pump/timing case, locked the flywheel with that VERY expensive tool, and lined all the marks up on the gears/timing cover. I was hoping just to put everything back in place and it would magically be timed correctly. I'm guessing that's not the case and if so guess I'll dig into the bible and see what's involved.
    2) In reading the bible, what is the double tensioning? Set the tension, crank the engine through two revolutions, slack the belt and repeat?
    Thanks,
    Geoff

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    The Granite State (NH)
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    Default

    Regarding keeping everything lined up timing-wise--Let me rephrase: Getting the timing marks a bit out of kilter while fiddling around with the seal won't matter much, so long as they're exactly lined up when you install the timing belt.

    Your understanding of the double-tensioning procedure is correct.

    TIP: Make sure the timing marks on the cog wheels and timing cover are still lined up AFTER double-tensioning. I swear mine were lined up on all 3 marks before tensioning. I put the whole thing back together without re-checking the timing marks after tensioning the belt. I even added coolant before I attempted to start the engine. Well, it wouldn't start and backfired horribly while cranking. I pulled apart the entire thing to find that the cam sprocket was now clearly 1 tooth off (7 1/2 degrees).

    The next time, I (very briefly) started it after double-tensioning the belt and before I put anything else on!

    Matt is right about the main seal being easier to change with the entire timing housing removed. If you go this route, remember that there are some gaskets between the timing housing and the block that'll need to be relpaced.
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Washington DC
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    513

    Default

    i think that's a clip-on tie


    Quote Originally Posted by junkyddog11 View Post
    I'll bet you have a fake moustache
    A Land Rover would never turn up to collect an Oscar. It'd be far too busy doing something important, somewhere, for someone."



  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    1 hour North of Rovers North
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    144

    Default

    I have a 2.5, it sucks a lot! But it always starts and has only left me stranded once. A 35$ head gasket was cheaper than an engine swap so I kept it.

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