Wiring Harness & Modern Fuse/Relay Block

[printjunky]

The fuse box bracket on the firewall.

[printjunky]

Can anyone confirm for me: On the starter solenoid, there's a tab that stays hot with the key in an on position, correct?

I have too much torn apart to easily check at the moment. Looks that on the diagram of the solenoid in my Haynes.

[printjunky]

OK, I figured out a little more. Looks like I was not correct. The starter relay is just an intermittent relay. Though the RN diagram differs with the Haynes as far as that part of the wiring goes, so there's still some confusion)

The thing I'm trying to solve is getting switched power safely to my add-on fuse box.

Obviously, I could probably just do something like 8 or 6 gauge wire from battery to starter switch (#1), fused (80A?) near the battery. Then take a similar wire back out (from #4?) to my fuse box (probably for extra safety also fused there with the maxi fuse that already exists (smallest rating = 100A).

Even better , and safer/more reliable though, I could get a continuous duty 100A relay, with just the switching wire from the ignition switch to the relay. This would eliminate any significant wire (and current) from battery to ignition switch, keeping most high current power under the hood.

I'd still have to take some power to the ignition switch for the switching current for the relays, but that's pretty small current, and some power to the opriginal fuse box, where I'll be leaving the non-switched circuits (horn, emergency flasher, what else?)

Anyone concur? Have other opinions?