Problems outta nowhere 04 Disco 2 4.6l

[mearstrae]

Both Offenhauser and Edelbrock make 4bbl manifolds for Rover V-8's (they are also listed as being for Buick 215's). I have one of each, and like the Edelbrock better, my '70 3500s (it's a car...) has the Edelbrock and my '76 Series III has the Offy. You'll be in dark territory as far as ignition goes, I don't know what mods might be needed to get things sparking correctly. [Oh, and while I'm thinking about your head gasket, there were problems with the 4.6 with cracked bolt holes in the upper side of the blocks, this caused it to seem like a blown gasket, even after new gaskets were installed (and the heads straightened...). Saw this happen on a friend's '03, solved the problem with industrial block sealer.] Anyway, to put a distributor into a newer 4.6 you'd need the front parts from an older distributor equip't engine, including the cam shaft and possibly the crank, to allow for the older distributor drive system.

[Sintonics]

Ive been online researching like a maniac, a guy told me to look into HEI Distributer, and another said the fuel pump will need to be changed as well. "Stand alone HEI Distributor. While your at it get rid of EGR and pollution pump. Beef up that intake manifold because it needs a new one anyway and gasket match everything." Is exactly what I was told. I will definitely look into those carbs, but basically I would be bailing on all sensors and attempting to simplify the whole damn system. I have problems every 3 months with this thing. Mostly with the electronics. I'll also look for the Cracks you were talking about. I also found oil cooler leak in the little box the hoses run too so that will have to be replaced. Found a lot of parts with yellow dots. Salvaged. I feel like I bought a lemon but I keep finding people with same issues and irritation. Maybe they were all lemons. I'm gonna figure this out and turn her into a peach.

[mearstrae]

The present fuel pump is between 35 to 40 psi and a carb only needs between 4 and 6psi. I used a Coil-in-cap distributor on my '95 Range Rover Classic, it came from 'heidizzy' on Ebay, I liked it because the ones for Buicks are shorter overall and cause clearance troubles on the intake manifold and sometimes the water pump housing. The reason the cam, and possibly the crank, need to be changed is that the oil pump drive is different. The older engines had the oil pump drive at the lower side of the distributor drive, and there's no provision on newer motors to put that drive gear on the cam. possibly the best thing to do is find an older 4.6 with a distributor drive and just put on the carb/intake and a Carter fuel pump. Yes, the electronics on these things is usually the biggest trouble. I also just don't understand the use of so many relays, why not just use 30amp switches and better wire?

[Sintonics]

There is just so much in so many places, it's insane! I am down to a few bolts to expose the heads. I'll put up a photo later if it lets me. I am a little worried to what I may find. But the lifters and camshaft look spot on. It was actually beautiful to me to see it all. I'm just trying to make it more simple by attempting this. The computer shuts me down if a fly turd gets swallowed by the air intake. Like I say I want an engine that will run. Not limp around the whole time. Four days after I bought it the check engine light came on and is still on to this day. I've put 10,000 miles on it in 2 1/2 years. It broke down 4 times to where it wouldn't move. Stranded by the comp. I can't take it. But I know it capability. The diff lock is intoxicating. I've never seen anything that big and heavy go str8 up a wet grassy hill and not even leave a mark that it ever went up the hill. I luv it's soul, but it's brain damaged. It's like having a mom that's scared to let you play football. You have all the capability to play but instead your in a soccer field because the ECU is deciding your pushing the motor a little too hard, or uh oh a sensor suddenly went bad somewhere, better stop!

[mearstrae]

The problem with having so many things depending on the ECU, is that changing anything at all is a giant pain. The engine and transmission both depending on sensors. The best would be a carbed engine with a manual transmission. Oh, and I saw that on the 4.6 (and other Bosch engines) the cam is shorter, while the crank is longer. There was a company doing 5.0 land Rover high performance engines with carbs, I can't find the info presently, maybe a web search for Buick/Rover V-8 would bring something useful to light.