Swivel Pin Shims

[lumpydog]

parrie. The shims listed in Mark's picture are a range of sizes (thicknesses) that can be used to achieve the right pre-load. Typically you would have 2-3 of each size on hand to test the amount/combo that works - using different thickness combos to bump up, or down the pre-load as needed. You can order a range of shim sizes from our sponsor.

You do not need to balance out every shim on top with one on the bottom. If it were my truck, I would return the shims that you found on the bottom, to their original location. Then add/remove shims from the top as needed.

[lumpydog]

I'll add these thoughts as you mentioned you swapped in new swivel balls and bushes, etc so the shim situation will likely be different. As mentioned, shimming the bottom moves the entire housing higher. This has several effects:

1) It means the axle's exit will be effected. This may have been why the prior owner (or factory) added them, to center the axle's exit through the stub axle. Test this before putting the swivel seal on, etc - , if the axle is angling up, and contacting the stub axle exit at the top, the swivel housing is too high - remove some lower pin shims. If the opposite is true, adjust accordingly.

2) It reduces the number of shims needed on the top pin. If you're finding you need a lot of shims up top, bottom shims can counteract the need. Again, check the axle's exit from the stub axle - it should not be contacting the exit and should spin freely.

[parrie]

I'll add these thoughts as you mentioned you swapped in new swivel balls and bushes, etc so the shim situation will likely be different. As mentioned, shimming the bottom moves the entire housing higher. This has several effects:

1) It means the axle's exit will be effected. This may have been why the prior owner (or factory) added them, to center the axle's exit through the stub axle. Test this before putting the swivel seal on, etc - , if the axle is angling up, and contacting the stub axle exit at the top, the swivel housing is too high - remove some lower pin shims. If the opposite is true, adjust accordingly.

2) It reduces the number of shims needed on the top pin. If you're finding you need a lot of shims up top, bottom shims can counteract the need. Again, check the axle's exit from the stub axle - it should not be contacting the exit and should spin freely.

Thanks again for all the great info...all makes perfect sense to me now. I have a pretty good stock pile of assorted shims so I should be good to go. Going to give it a go tonight, will report back.

[parrie]

I'm happy to say that my first attempt at installing the housing went surprisingly well. I started w/ .045" on top and bottom which was a bit stiff...added .002" to the top which put me at 14lb pull. Total amount of shims top & bottom is very close to Mark's parts diagram. At first look the axle exit looks good but I ran out of time, will confirm before locking everything down. Thanks again for all the great info!

[SafeAirOne]

Total amount of shims top & bottom is very close to Mark's parts diagram.

That's funny--The diagram isn't directive of the total thickness of the shims to be used, but rather an illustration of the variety of shims available. Quite a coincidence in your case.

[parrie]

Coincidence or blind luck I would say Mark! I did some more research yesterday and finally found a reference in a series II work shop manual that instructed to start w/ .040 top & bottom...the diagram you posted totals .048 so I figured I'd start somewhere in between...sometimes it's better to be lucky than good! I'll be moving on to the driver side tonight...we'll see if I can get lucky again.