I think I found the wiring diagram for a NADA Series 3 with Hazards
Here is the diagram
And here is the diagram key
I think I found the wiring diagram for a NADA Series 3 with Hazards
Here is the diagram
And here is the diagram key
1968 Series IIa
1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)
Thanks man. Now I am really scratching my head...there is no two prong relay in that schematic. I think the next logical step for me is to remove the hazard switch assembly...I got a feeling something is wrong there. I was able to solve my tail light issue. Found a partially broken wire out of the frame at the RR fender well.
Now I find that the alternator is not charging the battery...and the indicator light on the dash agrees. Odd thing is that all schematics call for dual power lines from the alternator to the solenoid. I assume this is to carry the needed current (rather than having one large wire). However my alternator only have one power wire connected to it. When the engine is running and even rev'ed up, the voltage on the battery (new battery) does not go up, so pretty clear there is no charge. Any particular reason why you can not run one large wire from the alternator to the battery directly and not to the solenoid? Sorry, different topic...but this one has my Rover stuck (unlike the other issues).
Consecutive drives without breaking down: 3
Posting some more pics of the progress. Close up shot of the powder coated rims and powder coated lug nuts. Well worth it.
Last edited by ninescorpions; 12-23-2016 at 09:41 AM.
Consecutive drives without breaking down: 3
RN does not have the LH seat belt bracket, so I just made one. Took a while to get it where I needed it, but gets the job done now.
Consecutive drives without breaking down: 3
I bought the three point seat belt kit with reels. Good news is that kit comes with multiple brackets assuming you may have a different mounting angle. I used the pre-drilled holes on the backwall and brackets that came with the kit to mount the reels. I needed to mold them to the angle needed. And for the buckles, I used the L brackets from the kit since they simply would not work otherwise.
Consecutive drives without breaking down: 3
Here is my homemade solution to the bolt that was sheared off in the pie plate. I drilled a hole through the bolt and used two galvanized bolts with a fabricated braket to go across the rim to secure it. When I first mounted the tire, the factory rubber stoppers were barely making contact with the tire. So I opt'ed to get some large rubber stoppers, drilled the center out for the bolt and washer. Then I cut the top to an angle so the tire can rest comfortable on the stoppers with about 1/4" clearance off the hood.
Consecutive drives without breaking down: 3
Found out why my tail lights were working intermittently. The tail lamp wiring was partially broken coming out of the frame and the rubber grommet was out of place. Fixed up the wiring and got the grommet back into place.
Consecutive drives without breaking down: 3
Those rims look awesome!
RN might not have lower seat belt anchors, but other vendors do. Call Ike. Call Trevor. p/n 345101.
--Mark
1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel
0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
(9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).
Yeah, I was surprised at how good the rims came out. Had no problem giving them my money...lol. As for the bracket, I am sourcing a factory one, but I went ahead and did that because I had nothing. I really wanted to keep the factory seat belts, but the buckles had seen better days...felt better with a new kit.
Consecutive drives without breaking down: 3
I have a couple of the used brackets (LH and RH) as these now come embedded on the new Defender seat belts.
Pay the postage and they are yours.
Les Parker
Tech. Support and Parts Specialist
Rovers North Inc.