Originally Posted by
erik88lr
Looking at the photo, the boot at the rear of the cylinder seems to be out a lot more than the front, as if that piston is out. The pistons should float in the cylinder, so I'd try prying the rear shoes in toward the cylinder with a screwdriver between the lining and the lip on the backing plate. If there is no movement try opening the bleeder and trying again. If still no movement maybe the rear piston is seized....
Thanks for this tip. I did exactly that. With the bleed valve open, I forced in the shoe in turn pushing fluid out the bleeder. I did this a couple of times. This definitely got the shoe in further on the cylinder. On the last attempt, I had the drum in place (against the shoe). With the valve open...I pushed the shoe in and then pushed the drum over it and retightened the bleeder.
This definitely got me "reassembled". I played with the brake adjuster a bit to get the least amount of friction from the trailing brake as I could (leading shoe out...trailing shoe in). But it is important to note that the trailing shoe is resting on the drum. And this is where my concern lies. I also fixed the placement of the upper springs on both rear brake assemblies (as suspected...they were also wrong). I put it all back together and fired it up. I took a 5 mile (round trip drive). Nice to get behind the wheel once in a while Once I got back, I check the hubs. Previously when the bearings were shot, the heat was focused on the warn hub...less on the wheel. In this case, I am getting heat through the wheel and less on the hub. This is indicating to me that 1. my new bears are so far so good 2. the amount of brake drag I have on the LF is too great.
I will jack it up tomorrow and check the brake adjuster. How much heat is acceptable heat when it comes to brake drag? I hear a lot that a little brake friction is not a bag thing, but I am pretty sure my condition is over the limit.
One other item to notate. The rear drums go on without a hitch. Meaning that the shoes are seated naturally far enough in that no monkey business is needed to get the drum on. I never get any heat signatures from the rear wheels or hubs. The condition exists on both fronts...so so on the RF and heavier on the LF.
Last edited by ninescorpions; 03-08-2017 at 11:14 PM.
Consecutive drives without breaking down: 3