I put disco axles on the 109 and was looking for steel wheels that would tuck the wheels back in some. Are the stock '88 steel wheels on of the more "tucked in" wheel choices. I have RRC alloys temporarily, and they are a bit wide in stance
Low Range
what steel wheels for disco axles on a 109?
I put disco axles on the 109 and was looking for steel wheels that would tuck the wheels back in some. Are the stock '88 steel wheels on of the more "tucked in" wheel choices. I have RRC alloys temporarily, and they are a bit wide in stance
Last edited by bryantate; 06-09-2009 at 07:25 AM. Reason: change stuff
Overdrive
Standard series steel wheels should do the trick.
5th Gear
I have a set of 5 regular 109 wheels part number 272309. you can have the set for $150 US.
where are you located?
original 88 rims part number 231601 will be better as the wheels should tuck just inside the body with those.
how did you deal with the steering on the front axle? is this a coil sprung setup?
rgrds
dave
Originally Posted by bryantate
A Land Rover would never turn up to collect an Oscar. It'd be far too busy doing something important, somewhere, for someone."
Low Range
Funny you ask about the steering. I was messing with that last night.
I want to keep the original column if possible. I took it apart and trying to line up the steering housing so I could the cut the original column and splice/weld some type of universal coupler. I took the intermediate section from a Disco 2 and it looks like it will give me some length and get things close.
Has anyone tried something else?
I want to look at the wheels on my buddies truck, thanks for the offer.
Are they in paintable condition? (will they look good if I repaint?)
1st Gear
would this help?
1968 Land Rover "Park Ranger" camper **SOLD**
1967 109 **SOLD**
NADA Dormobile #601 **SOLD**
1965 IIA 88 2.5NA Diesel
1963 Mercedes 300se
1975 Volvo C303
KJ6AQK
3rd Gear
This is a Series column with the worm gear cut off and bushed. Borgeson in Torrington CT makes nice universals and double-D shafts that I use. Whatever you do, make sure you use some type of collapsing shafts between the box and column. Don't want to see you getting hurt.
Low Range
thanks,
I have read your long thread and actually printed that pic to see what you did.
I will call them tomorrow.
I plan to follow in your footsteps with a slightly different build.
Going 4.6 automatic on 110 frame.
Test fitting things now, got the body on the frame....almost seems to easy??
I guess once I set an engine in I will know what the problems are
Low Range
Oh, the frame would have helped, but I found a 110 frame and have begun building it up. I will post some details tomorrow.
5th Gear
yes wheels are paintable in fact I painted them a light machine grey back in 2002 or so.
A Land Rover would never turn up to collect an Oscar. It'd be far too busy doing something important, somewhere, for someone."
Low Range
I recently picked up a 1967 Nada 109 and thought I would share the progress and get some ideas of what obstacles I will encounter. A little background, 6 years ago I built a 110 300tdi from ground up. 3 years ago, I rebuilt a 94 d90 soft top and last summer put a 4.6 auto in it. I’ve parted a 95 disco and have most of the “defender common” parts ready. So from the combined experiences I have some idea of what I will need, but this project has a twist.
The good: the Nada body is in remarkably good shape, no dings or dents that I can see. Bulkhead has a little rust in the floor area, but not that bad. It has the Africa top, the body appears to be complete (its apart now), the project came with a pile of elephant hide seats in various levels of condition and a pile of trim pieces and tubs of electrical goodies and parts. It has the original front windshield, new defender removable door tops and the spare tire mounted bonnet. Gauges and dash appear to be complete.
The bad: the engine is reportedly in working order but not running (75k miles), the transmission and transfer case is complete. The axles are mostly there.
The ugly: the frame is rusted. The rear cross member is almost gone.
I debated where to go with the project, I almost went the original route, but the rolling chassis and drive train are beyond what I want to tackle and that really isn’t the type of project I set out to do.
(purists: stop reading here)
The twist: It will have a 110 frame, 4.6 with crower cam, chipped and automatic transmission. I am hoping to have a vintage looking Series on the outside. But have a safe, family friendly Rover that can handle modern traffic with ease. Looks like the rear wheel position (3 inches back) will make it look more like a defender, but maybe someone has some fresh ideas to make this project easier and better.
The details: I have stockpile of parts from a d1. The 110 rolling chassis had Salisbury axles, but were incomplete (missing one drum) and the rear is missing the guts. I have a set of disco axles, so I put them under the frame and set the body on it this weekend…..(mostly by myself). It’s amazing what you can do with a floor jack, old tires and some lumber. The rear area lined up perfectly as well as the bulkhead. I am not sure what will happen when I put the engine and transmission in. I hope that only minor bulkhead trimming will be necessary. The outrigger under the b pillar is about 7 inches to far back. Not sure whether it should be cut and welded or if an extension plate off the outrigger will suffice. I plan to loosely line things up with the body and engine together. So I can see what will happen with the radiator area and breakfast. I want to keep the original look as much as possible, just not sure what will fit. Once I test fit things, and see if any welding is necessary I will disassemble and galvanize the frame. Hopefully at that point I will know how much bulkhead will be shaved and I can start on some body work.
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