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  • Mercedesrover
    3rd Gear
    • Oct 2006
    • 343

    #16
    Originally posted by TeriAnn
    I have the advantage of having studied my fuel injection system's theory of operation before beginning the conversion, having done it myself so I know what is where and I have a full set of accurate drawings for my EFI system showing pin numbers, colour codes and signals. So I have the advantage of knowing my EFI system well enough to diagnose and repair problems in the field.
    Good for you, TeriAnn! One of the great problems with these so-called "hybrid" trucks is that people with too much money pay someone else to engineer and build them. That's all well and good until you're 100 miles from nowhere and the thing comes up limp. Building the truck like yourself, dirty hands and all, will give you a great advantage in the field over others who aren't very familliar with what makes their truck tick.

    Originally posted by TeriAnn
    However choices for wide revving engines available in the States that fit a Series engine bay and has enough power to push a loaded 109 up steep climbs or mountain highway driving are VERY limited.

    At the time I did not know that diesel could run on used cooking oil. Had I known at the time I could have driven for almost free I would have gone ahead & put a diesel powerplant in instead of the petrol one. Likely the 6 cyl LD28 with a turbo. Oh well
    You're very right...Reasonablly priced, roadable diesels aren't very common in the States. At 125hp the 617 turbo would probably do it, but it wouldnt be a rocket ship. The reason I went with the engine I did as that I wanted diesel, I wanted reliablility and I wanted to be able to get spares easily. These engines are a nickel for a bushel basket because the cars they were in rust so quickly. And if you're interested in burning alternative fuel (WVO, SVO, Bio), none burn it better than these Benz engines. A 616/617 engine will run almost as well on light engine oil, any vegatible oil, tranny fluid, hydrolic fluid, etc., as it will on diesel.

    Originally posted by J!m
    The 200Tdi is a very easy swap into a series truck, and has all the power a fully loaded 109 would need. That is the direction we should be thinking in my opinion...
    Yes, pretty good motors and an easy swap, but the engines aren't cheap, (or legal in most cases) and you're beholden to a precious few parts suppliers. They've got a belt-driven cam and an intererence motor...Not a good idea if you ask me, though it's been done forever. They're also intollerant of alternative fuels if you ever want to go that route.
    www.seriestrek.com

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    • o2batsea
      Overdrive
      • Oct 2006
      • 1199

      #17
      TAW, since when have you been running EFI?

      Did you use the Ford ECM or just the guts and Megasquirt? I see that you have the Mass Air on it which leads me to believe you're running an A9L or similar ECM.
      Let me recommend that you ditch the Ford ECM, and buy the Megasquirt kit. There's really no reason to be using the Ford especially due to the great snarl of wiring and the lack of user adjustments.
      Megasquirt will run with one vacuum line to the ECM. That's all the input it requires. Of course there are other sensors that you'll hook up, like TPS, air and water temp, and even an o2 sensor if you want. Your wire count will drop from 30 or so to about 8. How's that for simple? In addition, you can fine tune it for your type of driving whether it's for economy or power.
      OK, megasquirt is bank fire and not sequential, but anything above tickover it doesn't really matter anyway. The only whoop de doo feature of the Ford EFI is the adaptive look up table. This is instead of allowing you to tune it yourself. Oh and the mass air...you can take that out too.

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      • TeriAnn
        Overdrive
        • Nov 2006
        • 1087

        #18
        Originally posted by Bill Adams
        Did you use the Ford ECM or just the guts and Megasquirt? I see that you have the Mass Air on it which leads me to believe you're running an A9L or similar ECM.
        Let me recommend that you ditch the Ford ECM, and buy the Megasquirt kit. There's really no reason to be using the Ford especially due to the great snarl of wiring and the lack of user adjustments.
        Megasquirt will run with one vacuum line to the ECM. That's all the input it requires. Of course there are other sensors that you'll hook up, like TPS, air and water temp, and even an o2 sensor if you want. Your wire count will drop from 30 or so to about 8. How's that for simple? In addition, you can fine tune it for your type of driving whether it's for economy or power.
        OK, megasquirt is bank fire and not sequential, but anything above tickover it doesn't really matter anyway. The only whoop de doo feature of the Ford EFI is the adaptive look up table. This is instead of allowing you to tune it yourself. Oh and the mass air...you can take that out too.
        Let me see if I understand you correctly? You are suggesting that I rip out all the electrics to an already installed and functional EFI conversion, spend a bunch of money for a different control system and start all over again with a different electrical system just so I can fiddle with the ECU computer afterwards?

        Why on earth would I want to do that

        Here's what I have: EFI conversion from a 1991 Mustang 5.0 GT 5 speed mounted onto a 1970 Mustang 302.
        - load resistors instead of EGR and fuel tank evaporative recirculation thingies. The crank case SMOG stuff is in place. And I have not figured out how to add the speed sensor to the Series transfer case speedo gear assembly (minor annoyance when coming to a stop with my foot off the pedal).

        The O2 sensors constantly monitor the air to fuel ratio for economy, the engine automatically retunes itself for altitude so no more running way rich in the Rockys, the engine retunes itself for intake air density & engine temperature. Why would I want to carry an on board computer and fiddle with it on trips into tall mountains? Looking at factory fuel consumption numbers, it appears that Ford injection systems get better fuel consumption from sequential injection than they do from bank injection. The factory ECU self adjusts for changes in the engine such as cam, headers, custom heads and stroker crank. It self adjusts to compensate for sensor variation & engine wear. The EFI system can self adapt to handle over 350 hp engines without changes. And then it just needs a larger dia throttle body and MAF until you get to 500 HP and then it just needs higher pressure injectors and a different fuel pressure regulator. All that without modifying the ECU or wiring.

        The Mustang EFI subharness required no modifications to fit in my Land Rover's 302. The 1991 Mustang engine harness I used did require changes though.

        I started off by ripping out my Land Rover's engine bay wiring. Then I laid in the Mustang harness. A Mustang engine bay is a lot wider than a Series Bay, so the part of the harness that goes across the bulkhead took a loop around the Kodiak blower motor housing. That shortened up the length perfectly. The Mustang's battery is on the left inner wing panel, so I had to reroute all the wires going to the battery area for power. I decided to make all my ground connections to the right side frame near my battery ground connection so I needed to reroute those wires as well.

        I picked out wires I wasn't using and created a whole new subharness for the fuel pumps, FP relay and inertia switch. Otherwise the Mustang engine harness is unmolested. I rewired the LR's previous engine bay electrics to fit into the Mustang harness and that was about all there was to the EFI wiring. Most of the effort was learning how EFI worked and deciding where to place non engine mounted components.

        My ECU sits on the inner bulkhead instrument shelf in the right hand corner. With the ECU on its side it is a perfect fit with a rubber pad between it and the bulkhead to absorb some of the higher frequency vibrations. My bulkhead has a premade hole for a RHD steering column with a block off plate. I removed the block off plate and used a grinder to reshape the opening to fit the Ford bulkhead wire harness grommet.

        That's pretty much all there was to the EFI wiring. Since it is all installed and working why in the world would I rip everything out, buy a megasquirt thingie, a portable computer to run it and start all over again with the wiring?

        You suggestion doesn't make sense to me. What am I not getting
        -

        Teriann Wakeman_________
        Flagstaff, AZ.




        1960 Land Rover Dormobile, owned since 1978

        My Land Rover web site

        Comment

        • o2batsea
          Overdrive
          • Oct 2006
          • 1199

          #19
          Eh, whatever!

          If you're happy with the Ford stuff, well fine.
          At least I got you to install EFI!

          Comment

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