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Thread: Who's good at body work?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Holly Ridge, NC
    Posts
    621

    Default Who's good at body work?

    Ok, so i stripped down my disco's front end to see how much of work i need to do to it.

    Basically i have to replace the whole drivers side inner fenderwell back to the firewall. And need to chop off the drivers side area of the radiator support, basically from the right of the place where it mounts to the frame.

    Since i am an extreem novice in body work but learn quickly what are my options for putting everything back to gether when i get in the parts?

    I will have to drill out the spot welds, do i have to reweld the parts on or can i bolt them on? (flame away)

    also, while i was pulling some of the welds apart yesterday i noticed a fair amount of rust between some of the body pannels. How can i prevent this from reoccuring? Can i POR 15 it and then spot weld through it or does the metal have to be clean to weld?

    Has anyone done this?? If so can you provide some guideance and prepare me for the PITGDMFA that it will most likely be?

    Also, has anyone "reinforced" the stock bumper? I noticed how light and flimsy it was when i pulled it off last night. I would love to have a good aftermarket bumper, but right now its not in the fiscal planning for my Rover.

    I can send pictures of the dammage when i get home or i can email them to you if you ask.

    Thanks!
    First but gone: 91 3 door Disco "White Rhino"
    77 Series III 88 ex MoD "Shongololo"
    Gone and I miss her: 97 D1 5 speed
    04 DII
    08 D3 (LR3)

  2. #2

    Default

    Can't help you just yet but I'm in the same situation. The inner fender wells are pretty much rotted straight through and I'm looking into a way to replace them.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    twisties~South Lake Tahoe tarmac rallye style
    Posts
    733

    Default

    Discovery I inner fenders are available, we had to go through the same issue on our RN Discovery I. Simple, just ordered up a new factory replacement part. Agree w/you, I occasionally watched the tech repair the inner fender when I had time (I think I took some photos - I'll look tomorrow). Please show us your re-building progress in detailed photos! Sounds great!

    Hopefully this will help you out... (and not sure if you even need this part) We have some Discovery I "clearance" body parts in-stock. IIRC, there is a special drill bit you can buy to drill out the spot welds. Yes, re-spot weld, don't use bolts. I would use Waxoyl after painting.

    ALR5717 PANEL, BATTERY, LH DISCOVERY I $12.00

    Last edited by TSR53; 09-13-2007 at 05:38 PM.
    Cheers, Thompson
    Art & Creative Director, Rovers Magazine
    Rovers North, Inc.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Kingsport
    Posts
    613

    Default

    When welding, the metal needs to be clean, you can't paint it first. Weld, then paint.

    The drill bit for drilling out spot welds is essentially a very small hole saw bit, with a spring-loaded punch in the center of it as a guide. Neat tool.


    Good luck!
    -L

    '72 SIII SW 88"
    '60 SII 88" RHD

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Holly Ridge, NC
    Posts
    621

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Leslie
    When welding, the metal needs to be clean, you can't paint it first. Weld, then paint.

    The drill bit for drilling out spot welds is essentially a very small hole saw bit, with a spring-loaded punch in the center of it as a guide. Neat tool.


    Good luck!
    What about weld through primer?

    Have heard that its the way to go. Im gonna check with the local body guys here.

    I am using a 3/8' titanum tipped drill-saw. works prety good.
    First but gone: 91 3 door Disco "White Rhino"
    77 Series III 88 ex MoD "Shongololo"
    Gone and I miss her: 97 D1 5 speed
    04 DII
    08 D3 (LR3)

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