Mt Mansfield Heater, or Kodiak MkIII

[greenmeanie]

As a matter of interest how does the late IIA/SIII heater compare with the Kodiak and Mnt. Mansfield? I am talking about the heater that has the core box semi recessed into the top of the footsell on the bulkhead and the large duct runnign along the base of the dash.

Not that i need a heater. It still T-shirt weather here.

[Bertha]

As a matter of interest how does the late IIA/SIII heater compare with the Kodiak and Mnt. Mansfield? I am talking about the heater that has the core box semi recessed into the top of the footsell on the bulkhead and the large duct runnign along the base of the dash.

Not that i need a heater. It still T-shirt weather here.

Kodiak has better output, however a lot depends on the truck configuration you have ie: soft top/hardtop/88/109 2door or 5 door/interior trim or no interior trim.

In my late 2a 88 with a hardtop and full interior trim(headliner door panels etc) its standard heater works quite well, even on cold days, however my 109 3 door with hard top and no interior trim, is tough to get warm even with the MT Mansfield heater installed.

I am currently working on a way to adapt a Heatercraft heater to a series truck and get it to look somewhat factory. They sell 28,000 to 40,000 btu units which should be able to heat even the most cavernous of trucks.

[Mercedesrover]

Get a new $20 heater core from NAPA and make sure the motor is spinning as it should. Both my Rovers have original heaters with new heater cores and both will heat you right out of them.

[TeriAnn]

As a matter of interest how does the late IIA/SIII heater compare with the Kodiak and Mnt. Mansfield?

The Kodiak is rated at 17,500 B.T.U/hour with the motor blowing 190 CFM. I think the Mansfield is a little higher but no a whole lot. The RN site probably has the rating.

Cores get clogged over time. It never hurts to have a radiator shop boil one out and they usually can solder any leak. And remember the heater depends upon a hot thermostat to produce heat.

I have the input of mine set up to be wither recirculating or a combination recirculating & fresh air. It gets real toasty recirculating but it can get humid as well.

[greenmeanie]

The Kodiak is rated at 17,500 B.T.U/hour with the motor blowing 190 CFM. I think the Mansfield is a little higher but no a whole lot. The RN site probably has the rating.

To my original hijack question do you know what the stock OEM late unit was rated at? I agree that due to age most now have a depleted performance but I've an academic interest to compare performance numbers. As Jim points out and you provide some reasoning behind I'd rather expect the stock unit to have similar performance.

I can see the upgrade for earlier trucks but I'm wondering if a Kodiak/Mansfield is much of an upgrade for a 69+ truck?

[Mercedesrover]

I can see the upgrade for earlier trucks but I'm wondering if a Kodiak/Mansfield is much of an upgrade for a 69+ truck?

I say no. The original Smiths unit is great. Put a new heater core in it, ( Really, they're $20 brand new from any parts store ) clean out the mouse nests and it will do just fine.

[derekchace]

a new core for the heater from the parts store is probably not an option on my 24v rover?

[Mercedesrover]

a new core for the heater from the parts store is probably not an option on my 24v rover?

Voltage doesn't have anything to do with it. The "core" is the radiator inside the heater box. Over the years they get plugged up both inside and outside and don't transfer heat very well.

If you're having trouble, take your old core out and bring it to the parts store. Even if it's different than the Smiths style I'm sure they can match it up with something for very short money.

By the way, the replacement core part numbers for the Smiths style heater are as follows:

4-Seasons/GDI - 399024
Everco - H2329
Napa - 660-3076

[stomper]

Just to clarify the vehicle type, It is a 1966 88" tropical hardtop. It has an original looking headliner, but I doubt there is much insulation above it. The doors have the deluxe interior panels, etc. When I place my hand over the output duct to the heater, it is luke warm in temperature. The blower output is fine. If I leave the blower off for about 5 minutes, and then turn it back on, it blows quite warm for a few minutes, then cools off again.

All of you have given me a bunch of great info. I think it is worth keeping the Kodiak then, and get it operating correctly. Does anyone know of the correct replacement part number for a new core at napa? I would just as well replace the whole core with a new on rather than have the rover sitting in pieces while I get the current core rebuilt.

Now my next question: What is the easiest way to get the old core out? I just bought this rover in August, so I haven't had a lot of time to take things apart yet. Do I need to remove the passenger side wing? Since I can't seem to even see or reach the coolant hoses attachment points, I assume this is the best course of action.

Also, I have the original looking coolant flow valve attached to the top front of the engine. I have noticed some of you have it mounted to the bulkhead instead. Are these valves notorious for breaking, or restricting coolant flow to the heater? I can pull the valve open or shut, but the heat output doesn't seem to change much if any.

[TeriAnn]

By the way, the replacement core part numbers for the Smiths style heater are as follows:

4-Seasons/GDI - 399024
Everco - H2329
Napa - 660-3076

Which Smiths heater? The round core one? The flat core one that mounts inside the bulkhead above the gearbox? The Series III fresh air heater?

I'd like to capture these numbers for my alternate parts web page but need to know which Smiths heater.

Thanks