HELP - I keep BREAKING my hydraulic lines!!!!!

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  • chester rides again
    1st Gear
    • Aug 2007
    • 116

    HELP - I keep BREAKING my hydraulic lines!!!!!

    I'm replacing all my rubber components on clutch/brakes system... The master cylinders were the easy part. The big problem I'm now facing is that all the metal pipe fixings are rusty and seized to the point that they are twisting & snapping the tubes when I try to disconnect them from the rubber components. I've soaked everything in PB Lockbreaker, but the metal lines are just too far gone. I've got alot more connections to break apart, and they keep failing.

    So, now I'm also looking at replacing my metal tubes.

    Could you guys please discuss my options for these metal pipes - it seems like it would be easier to just buy the tools necessary to make my own pipes rather than to order them all from our hosts. Any thoughts???
    '68 109 3 door with multiple personalities
    '03 Ford Excursion 7.3 diesel
    '07 Porsche Carrera S Cabriolet
  • stonefox
    4th Gear
    • Jul 2010
    • 450

    #2
    I've heard rumors of stainless steel line but I'm not sure if they were custom made or over the counter .Does anybody know?
    Sean
    ---------------------------------------------------------------

    1963 88'' IIa daily driver
    1970 88"
    1971 88"
    authenticstoneworks.com

    Comment

    • thixon
      5th Gear
      • Jul 2007
      • 909

      #3
      You're gonna get various opinions on this. Here's mine.

      I always make my own. It's not a tough task. If you've done it before, and know what you're getting into, then go for it. If your lines are really that bad, they need to be replaced anyway. Remember, you'll need to order some brit ends rather than the ones you'll get at the local auto parts store (unless you're old ones are good). As far as the tubing goes, its your choice. You can go with bundy tubing from the local auto parts store, or order one of the stainless steel kits. Up to you. Let your wallet decide.
      Travis
      '66 IIa 88

      Comment

      • leafsprung
        Overdrive
        • Nov 2006
        • 1008

        #4
        Stainless

        I make my own stainless lines:

        Comment

        • gudjeon
          5th Gear
          • Oct 2006
          • 613

          #5
          X2 for making your own. Bulk line is relatively cheap and an investment in a flaring tool will pay for itself in short time. Any old vehicle that needs brake line work has to be done under the assumption its all going to break and be replaced.

          Comment

          • Tim Smith
            Overdrive
            • Nov 2006
            • 1504

            #6
            I've always wanted to try cunifer lines personally. Very easy to bend and form and shouldn't rot.



            Either way, if you are braking the ends, you'll need to replace broken ends of the lines at the least. Seeing how important the brakes are, I suggest replacing the whole system.

            Comment

            • KevinNY
              4th Gear
              • Oct 2006
              • 484

              #7
              The Cunifer lines are just copper alloy line that is available at NAPA in a 25ft roll, it is also easy to make good flares with it.
              The Goat, 2.8 Daihatsu Td, '73 coil conversion

              Comment

              • gudjeon
                5th Gear
                • Oct 2006
                • 613

                #8
                Plain old double walled soldered steel line is only 11 bucks for a 20ft roll at Napa. When it rots out after another 25 years, I'll see what is available then.

                Comment

                • SafeAirOne
                  Overdrive
                  • Apr 2008
                  • 3435

                  #9
                  Originally posted by KevinNY
                  The Cunifer lines are just copper alloy line that is available at NAPA in a 25ft roll, it is also easy to make good flares with it.

                  Cunifer? I presume that means Copper (Cu), Nickel (Ni) and....um...fer??

                  I thought my brake lines were just copper lines since they are copper in color (they werre on the rover since it's life in the UK), but I was told they were copper-nickel lines. Is this the same thing as these Cunifer lines, I wonder?

                  These lines have been on my rover for at least 12 years and they look terriffic!
                  --Mark

                  1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

                  0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
                  (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

                  Comment

                  • I Leak Oil
                    Overdrive
                    • Nov 2006
                    • 1796

                    #10
                    Mark, you're probably right about having the CuNi alloy lines. I think Cunifer is a brand name. I live about 8 miles from the Fedhill brake line guy. Cool guy and has a couple cool projects he's always working on. The stuff is really easy to work with though.
                    Jason
                    "Clubs are for Chumps" Club president

                    Comment

                    • KevinNY
                      4th Gear
                      • Oct 2006
                      • 484

                      #11
                      Here's the stuff.
                      The Goat, 2.8 Daihatsu Td, '73 coil conversion

                      Comment

                      • Tim Smith
                        Overdrive
                        • Nov 2006
                        • 1504

                        #12
                        Originally posted by gudjeon
                        Plain old double walled soldered steel line is only 11 bucks for a 20ft roll at Napa. When it rots out after another 25 years, I'll see what is available then.
                        I replaced the brake lines on a mid nineties Dodge due to rot. Within six months the new brake lines were already rotting again. Not as bad as before mind you but bad enough to make me mad.

                        I think new steel isn't as good as old steel. It's up to the owner of course but if you live in the northeast, you might want to think about upgrading. The labor of doing the job is enough to make me want to do it once and forget it.

                        Comment

                        • gudjeon
                          5th Gear
                          • Oct 2006
                          • 613

                          #13
                          That's bad to hear. I have not had a similar experience (Thank Goodness). We get a similar rust worm in the winters here with the copious amount of dehydrated ocean added to the roads.

                          Last as long, perhaps no. Long enough for me, yes.

                          Comment

                          • yorker
                            Overdrive
                            • Nov 2006
                            • 1635

                            #14
                            Originally posted by gudjeon
                            Plain old double walled soldered steel line is only 11 bucks for a 20ft roll at Napa. When it rots out after another 25 years, I'll see what is available then.

                            I have bought that line and am lucky if I get 2-3 years out of it here in NY.
                            1965 SIIa 88",1975 Ex-MOD 109/Ambulance, 1989 RRC, blah, blah, blah...

                            Land Rover UK Forums

                            Comment

                            • thixon
                              5th Gear
                              • Jul 2007
                              • 909

                              #15
                              Leaf,
                              That axle looks smurftastic.

                              Originally posted by leafsprung
                              I make my own stainless lines:
                              Travis
                              '66 IIa 88

                              Comment

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