HELP - I keep BREAKING my hydraulic lines!!!!!

[chester rides again]

I'm replacing all my rubber components on clutch/brakes system... The master cylinders were the easy part. The big problem I'm now facing is that all the metal pipe fixings are rusty and seized to the point that they are twisting & snapping the tubes when I try to disconnect them from the rubber components. I've soaked everything in PB Lockbreaker, but the metal lines are just too far gone. I've got alot more connections to break apart, and they keep failing.

So, now I'm also looking at replacing my metal tubes.

Could you guys please discuss my options for these metal pipes - it seems like it would be easier to just buy the tools necessary to make my own pipes rather than to order them all from our hosts. Any thoughts???

[stonefox]

I've heard rumors of stainless steel line but I'm not sure if they were custom made or over the counter .Does anybody know?

[thixon]

You're gonna get various opinions on this. Here's mine.

I always make my own. It's not a tough task. If you've done it before, and know what you're getting into, then go for it. If your lines are really that bad, they need to be replaced anyway. Remember, you'll need to order some brit ends rather than the ones you'll get at the local auto parts store (unless you're old ones are good). As far as the tubing goes, its your choice. You can go with bundy tubing from the local auto parts store, or order one of the stainless steel kits. Up to you. Let your wallet decide.

[leafsprung]

I make my own stainless lines:
http://pangolin4x4.com/pangolin4x4/projects/pbr/ssbrakelines.jpg

[gudjeon]

X2 for making your own. Bulk line is relatively cheap and an investment in a flaring tool will pay for itself in short time. Any old vehicle that needs brake line work has to be done under the assumption its all going to break and be replaced.:thumb-up:

[Tim Smith]

I've always wanted to try cunifer lines personally. Very easy to bend and form and shouldn't rot.

http://www.fedhillusa.com/

Either way, if you are braking the ends, you'll need to replace broken ends of the lines at the least. Seeing how important the brakes are, I suggest replacing the whole system.

[KevinNY]

The Cunifer lines are just copper alloy line that is available at NAPA in a 25ft roll, it is also easy to make good flares with it.

[gudjeon]

Plain old double walled soldered steel line is only 11 bucks for a 20ft roll at Napa. When it rots out after another 25 years, I'll see what is available then.:thumb-up:

[SafeAirOne]

The Cunifer lines are just copper alloy line that is available at NAPA in a 25ft roll, it is also easy to make good flares with it.


Cunifer? I presume that means Copper (Cu), Nickel (Ni) and....um...fer??

I thought my brake lines were just copper lines since they are copper in color (they werre on the rover since it's life in the UK), but I was told they were copper-nickel lines. Is this the same thing as these Cunifer lines, I wonder?

These lines have been on my rover for at least 12 years and they look terriffic!

[I Leak Oil]

Mark, you're probably right about having the CuNi alloy lines. I think Cunifer is a brand name. I live about 8 miles from the Fedhill brake line guy. Cool guy and has a couple cool projects he's always working on. The stuff is really easy to work with though.

[KevinNY]

Here's the stuff.

[Tim Smith]

Plain old double walled soldered steel line is only 11 bucks for a 20ft roll at Napa. When it rots out after another 25 years, I'll see what is available then.:thumb-up:
I replaced the brake lines on a mid nineties Dodge due to rot. Within six months the new brake lines were already rotting again. Not as bad as before mind you but bad enough to make me mad. :mad:

I think new steel isn't as good as old steel. It's up to the owner of course but if you live in the northeast, you might want to think about upgrading. The labor of doing the job is enough to make me want to do it once and forget it.

[gudjeon]

That's bad to hear. I have not had a similar experience (Thank Goodness). We get a similar rust worm in the winters here with the copious amount of dehydrated ocean added to the roads.

Last as long, perhaps no. Long enough for me, yes.:thumb-up:

[yorker]

Plain old double walled soldered steel line is only 11 bucks for a 20ft roll at Napa. When it rots out after another 25 years, I'll see what is available then.:thumb-up:


I have bought that line and am lucky if I get 2-3 years out of it here in NY.

[thixon]

Leaf,
That axle looks smurftastic:D.


I make my own stainless lines:
http://pangolin4x4.com/pangolin4x4/projects/pbr/ssbrakelines.jpg

[leafsprung]

Smurfs are blue . . .axle is machine grey

[chester rides again]

thanks for the replys, I'm going to go the Conifer route, just need to decide on the flaring tool.

[JackIIA]

FYI, NAPA (at least here in Mass) is quoting 25' 3/16" CU-Nickel at $47 rather than $25 as of today. It's still short money though.

I'm definitely going to go with Copper-Nickel too. I had erroneously thought it was illegal which Yorker cleared up.

How does one settle on diameter of the pipe? I noted the FedHill site has a variety of choices. Is it as simple as whatever fits snug through the fittings or is it determined by type of flare used...or both?

[Edit: As I start to do some research on this...given it's brakes afterall...I realize it isn't so casual a process. The FedHill site has a FAQ that is pretty good for someone who hasn't done brakes in the past...e.g., me]

[ignotus]

I just did the whole steel line replacement on my daughters 63 88. I got an Automec kit for single line LHD from a Rovah parts supplier in Maine. It is the cunifer lines and should never have to be replaced in her lifetime!
I recommend that you replace one line at a time. I found it easier to take off the Rh wing to gain access to the 3way union on the frame. The orginal metal clips on the frame may not bend back into place tightly. Plan on 2 days but could be done if all things go smooth in 1.

gene