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View Full Version : Problems Fitting A Fairey Overdrive



JackIIA
08-18-2010, 07:17 PM
Went to refit my Fairey OD and it won't go all the way in. It is 'sticking out' about 1/2 an inch. I've tried all the suggestions in the manual from George's site (turning the e-brake drum while fitting, low range, red shifter in neutral while maingear in first, etc.). I've also tried to lever it in with a 2x4 and given it a moderate amount of muscle.

The one thing I have NOT done is bought a Fairey Overdrive special lockwasher for the castellated nut. Is that the problem?

For those who have pulled and refitted their Faireys, have you switched out that locktab with one from George as opposed to the OEM one? Alternative, have you NOT switched out the original style locktab washer and had NO problems fitting the OD?

Thanks

superstator
08-18-2010, 07:33 PM
I've had mine in and out a couple times without changing the washer.

JackIIA
08-18-2010, 09:23 PM
yeah, i could just go back and reuse the original washer, if this is indeed the source of the problem. looks like trial and error is in order.

scatterling
08-19-2010, 05:03 AM
make sure the tabs on the washer are all completely bent over and out of the way. Sometimes it will get hung up on a tab.

KevinNY
08-19-2010, 08:37 AM
The tabs on the washer George reccomends are very slightly shorter, thats your problem. Get the correct washer or just trim an 1/8" from the arms of the lock washer.

luckyjoe
08-19-2010, 07:53 PM
What Kevin said. I use the short-tab washer and I've never had an alignment issue installing a Fairey...

Regards,

JackIIA
08-19-2010, 09:32 PM
Thanks Guys. Will post when I file that washer down and see if it's the issue or if it's somehow operator error.

JackIIA
08-20-2010, 01:13 PM
Well, that was definitely it. After filing down the tabs a bit, it slid right in.

But, I still have a pretty basic question/issue. Is the Overdrive always turning, regardless of whether it's engaged or not?

With the top plates off both the OD and the TX box, I hand turn the transmission and see that the OD gearing turns in unison with the main gear box. This is the case whether I have the OD engaged or not engaged. (This is all by hand mind you, no engine, clutch, etc. yet(.

I can readily move the OD shifting fork with the handle and move the synchro about. But I was expecting to see basically NOTHING turning inside the OD when I disengaged it.

So...is this just "how it is" or is something wrong. I tried to gauge a difference in the tx box gear turns with the OD engaged and unengaged, but didn't notice much of anything.

If meaningful, one of the brass pads is totally chewed up, but I don't see evidence of other issues. No big metal bits clunking about.

I Leak Oil
08-20-2010, 01:21 PM
When not engaged the input is locked directly to the output of the overdrive. Everything else is just freewheeling.

JackIIA
08-20-2010, 01:40 PM
You've got to dumb it down for me ;).

If the OD is disengaged and you were to look inside the top of the OD, I'm assuming you would still see the gear assembly turning. I'm pretty sure about this the more I think about it, since the only thing 'changing' is the synchro assembly on the main OD gear drive. That synchro is moving back and forth as you shift the lever.

I'm assuming as it engages the main OD gears on either side, that is when you are engaging OD or the equivalent of stock gearing. Either way, the whole thing just keeps on spinning.

But if I have that wrong, let me know before I button it up.

superstator
08-20-2010, 01:44 PM
No, you got it right. Engaging/disengaging just changes the ration within the OD from 1:1 to 0.73:1 (or whatever it is), and everything just keeps spinning either way.

JackIIA
08-20-2010, 07:37 PM
Thanks!

JackIIA
08-22-2010, 12:29 PM
After fitting the OD, I noted that one of the brass pads that direct the shift fork was chewed up. Never satisfied to leave functioning things alone, I pulled the unit and took off the backing plate, the shifting shaft and the fork.

The photo below shows the condition of the brass pads. In essence, completely destroyed.

The play in the OD seems fine, the gears seem ok too. I'll be ordered new pads, o-rings, detent springs, etc. from George.

But I'm wondering what could cause this pad failure? It's not me, because this truck hasn't been driven by me much at all in it's life. Could a previous owner do this by forcing the unit into engagement without the clutch??

Do I need to troubleshoot for some other cause or does this sound plausible. Thanks.

JackIIA
08-23-2010, 11:28 AM
Spoke with George this am and ordered parts. Has anyone here done a refurb on their OD? George suggests that the brass pads get chewed up only when there is excessive play concerning the fork, or if the gears are pretty worn. I don't think I have either condition. The fork was on there tight. And the play in the synchro (probably 1/16" max) before the fork shifts it either in or out of overdrive.

I'm going to try and replace the detent springs to see if it's that the shifter was somehow vibrating lose and grinding gears.

Is it normal to have some play before the synchro shifts from neutral?