oil filter for a 2.5L petrol

[NickDawson]

Hey folks,
Does anyone know the specs for the oil filter on a 2.5L gas engine?

I have the green bible for the 2.25 and some scanned chapters from the WSM for the 2.5, but not the pages I need in this case.

[Tim Smith]

I have a spin-on adapter on my current 2.5 but really they (2.25 or 2.5) are the same blocks and the same spin-on adapter fits both of them. If that's any consultation.

I can't imagine the oil filter was changed for any reason that wasn't documented. When you put two of the blocks side by side the basic molding is all the same other than some webbing added to the 2.5 for strength.

Are you thinking about the filter parameters or basic shape to make sure the new filter fits?

[SafeAirOne]

I'd expect it to be the same as the 2.5 diesel--Fram PH-8A.

[NickDawson]

I have a spin-on adapter on my current 2.5 but really they (2.25 or 2.5) are the same blocks and the same spin-on adapter fits both of them. If that's any consultation.

I can't imagine the oil filter was changed for any reason that wasn't documented. When you put two of the blocks side by side the basic molding is all the same other than some webbing added to the 2.5 for strength.

Are you thinking about the filter parameters or basic shape to make sure the new filter fits?

Thanks Tim!

I'm just trying to figure out what filter to buy. I'm also excited about the prospect of adding a spin on adapter!

[SafeAirOne]

I'm also excited about the prospect of adding a spin on adapter!


Don't get too excited! ;) Unless somebody changed it, you already have a spin-on type filter mount. The older 2.25 egines used a type of oil filter where the housing was attached to the engine and you disassembled the housing and changed out the paper filter element. An effective but messy setup. Many owners have removed this type of filter and installed a spin-on adapter which allows them to use the disposable, spin-on type oil filters that everyone else (like you and me with our 2.5s) use.

Yours should look similar to this (oh...and Wix 51515 is the same as the Fram PH-8A):

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4035/4643334133_d2622a4782_z.jpg

[NickDawson]

Don't get too excited! ;) Unless somebody changed it, you already have a spin-on type filter mount.
Yours should look similar to this (oh...and Wix 51515 is the same as the Fram PH-8A):

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4035/4643334133_d2622a4782_z.jpg

Bingo! It looks exactly like that! I was scared to tinker with it and take the filter off for fear that it was not a spin on - then I'd spend a week or so waiting on parts and my time to change the oil before I could drive it again. Knowing that I can pick up a Fram PH-8A at the local auto parts store is great!

Thanks!

[Jim-ME]

Do yourself a favor and buy an equivalent. Don't but FRAM.
Jim

[Tim Smith]

Do yourself a favor and buy an equivalent. Don't but FRAM.
Jim
Or else your motor will look like this. :(

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Mw8MF8Gu0DU/SwILLT7JxoI/AAAAAAAAEG4/axQKrhN5oow/s720/DSC00965.JPG

[NickDawson]

Do yourself a favor and buy an equivalent. Don't but FRAM.
Jim

So I found the part of the 2.5L WSM that talks about fluids and oil changes, etc. Glad to see it is mostly the same as the 2.25L green bible... but what I don't see is any specification on oil filters.
I've made a note of the Fram model (and to look of an equivalent!!!) listed above...but what am I missing? How would one know what filter to use?

And yes, you may all assume from these questions that this is in fact the first time I've changed the oil in anything, ever. I'll be standing facing the corner in shame for the next hour if you need me. ;)

Pretty funny actually - I bought the rover b/c I wanted to learn about easy stuff like changing the oil...but before I could get into that I had to replace the brake lines, wheel cylinders, MC and servo, fix the ignition more than once, replace the points and coil, replace the fuel shut off solenoid, replace the starter, remove the overdrive, refit the main drive gear..... Its been great fun (I can say that now) but I'm ready to get back to regular maintenance. Of course...we all know that something major will break when I get into this oil change :D

[stomper]

As far as what filter to buy, it is entirely your preference to the brand. Fram filters are easy to find, but many people feel the quality of them is questionable. Wix filters are generally agreed to be a good quality filter. Same with Mobil1, and opinions of other brands vary.

As far as the type of oil, this is again your preference, but the viscosity needs to be correct. Shell Rotella makes a good 20w-50, but so do other brands. I find that a place like tractor supply company will carry this weight more frequently than other automotive chain stores, because modern vehicles no longer use this weight of oil.

Changing the oil is easy, don't make it into a bigger task than it is.

Step one. Drive around the block a few times to warm up the oil. (skip this if it is hot outside.

Step 2. Undo the drain plug on the oil pan, making sure you have a sufficient sized container to catch the oil in.

Step 3. Unscrew the oil filter, and remove. If it was screwed on too tight last time it was changed, use a wrench to loosen it.

Step 4. Replace the filter with the new one. Use a little of your new motor oil to moisen the rubber gasket on the new filter before you tread it onto the filter housing. IT ONLY NEEDS TO BE HAND TIGHT!!!

Step 5. Put the oil drain plug back in to the oil pan.

Step 6. Pour new oil into the top oil filler hole. check your dipstick to ensure you are to the correct level.

Step 7. Start the truck, wait for the oil pressure to build up. and then inspect the filter and drainplug for any leaks.

Step 8. write down the milage for your next oil change, and the date for your next oil change. (3,000 or 3 months, whichever comes first)

[NickDawson]

Mission accomplished!
Easy as pie! Out with the guinness in with the IPA.

I found some 15W-50 (I'd be using a 10w-40)...although it was for diesels... some searching and asking around suggested that it diesel oil is fine for petrol engines, maybe even preferable b/c of the zinc.

I added some MMO while I was at it. The engine sounds much better!

[SafeAirOne]

Mission accomplished!
Easy as pie! Out with the guinness in with the IPA.

I found some 15W-50 (I'd be using a 10w-40)...although it was for diesels... some searching and asking around suggested that it diesel oil is fine for petrol engines, maybe even preferable b/c of the zinc.

I added some MMO while I was at it. The engine sounds much better!

Hmm...Unusual choice..that's some pretty heavy oil. Why not go with the grade/viscoscity recommended by the book? As you say, that 15W40 is usually used in diesels, but not petrols.

[usadventureracing]

what does the book say for oil for a 2.25? Thanks

[SafeAirOne]

what does the book say for oil for a 2.25? Thanks


Hmm...Looks like I'm wrong. That IS one of the viscoscities/grades recommended for the petrol 2.5. Wow!

From the 90/110 WSM (covering the 2.5 P and D engines--The 2.25P has the same viscosities listed in the SIII WSM):

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4111/4953371436_3f2089b9e1_z.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4102/4953359324_3b47f34a23_z.jpg

[stomper]

Glad you figured it out Nick. Now in the next few tries at changing the oil, you can perfect your oil containment abilities. Some newer vehicles put the oil filter in such a ridiculous location, that oil spills everywhere when you try and remove it. I'm still working on my containment abilities with my wife's car.