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slorocco
09-06-2010, 06:27 PM
I've got a front series salisbury axle and need to rework the front swivels etc. This axle is a bit unique in that the top swivel pins are a different dimension than the standard series swivel pins they are a bit shorter and larger diameter.

It's definitely a series axle, it came with 4.7:1 gears, perches for leaf springs, brackets for a series anti-sway bar. It also has series hubs, and drum brakes.

The strange parts about the axle are the swivel pin dimensions that I already pointed out, CV jointed axle shafts and the width. It's about 5 inches wider than the series III rear salisbury that I have.

I'll be calling our host tomorrow morning to see about getting some replacement parts. Any experts here have a clue to a part number for the swivel pin and railco bush?

rwollschlager
09-06-2010, 06:58 PM
I do not know any numbers off the top of my head but it sounds as if you have a front axle out of a 101. I believe they were fitted with a salisbury front. With a range rover engine and transmission it had permanent four wheel drive so the front end should have cv's.
Hope this helps,
-Rob

slorocco
09-07-2010, 06:53 AM
I had thought about that but the gearing is different and the swivels are bolted on not welded. I'm wondering if the swivel pins are from the 101 parts bin.

leafsprung
09-07-2010, 09:57 AM
you definitely have an oddball. Doesnt match the description of any standard production axle. You are probably going to have issues with parts. Whats the wheel bolt pattern? Lets see some pics.

slorocco
09-07-2010, 02:05 PM
I'll try to get some pics tonight. From talking with several folks today, it sounds like it may be a stage one or one ton axle. I've even got a part number, FRC1930 that of course is no longer available with any of the vendors in the US so far. There seem to be a couple folks in the UK that claim to have some in stock. I'm waiting on confirmation. BTW, they ain't going to be cheap! One website lists it at 37 pounds the other at 32 pounds, plus shipping.

leafsprung
09-07-2010, 02:10 PM
The part number you have is for a railko bushing for a stage one. However, your description of the rest axle is not consistent with a stage one front. Stage one is not 5 inches wider, neither is one ton . . . Stage ones have a rover front not sals.

slorocco
09-07-2010, 02:55 PM
The part number you have is for a railko bushing for a stage one. However, your description of the rest axle is not consistent with a stage one front. Stage one is not 5 inches wider, neither is one ton . . . Stage ones have a rover front not sals.

You've got a good point there. At least two of the folks I talked to referred me to this part number based on the description of the different swivel pin, not so much the rest of the axle. I'll try to get some pics tonight.

slorocco
09-07-2010, 07:43 PM
http://www.use.com/Rover_Steering_76273b786b63ec3f761d

http://www.use.com/Rover_Steering_76273b786b63ec3f761d

here's a link to some pics.

Dimensions on the two swivel pins

The stock series swivel pin and the one I have are nearly the same on the top end at 1.180 and 1.184 inches in diameter

The stock series pin necks down to 1.120 on the bottom end where mine only necks down to 1.175 inches in diameter.

The length of the series pin is 1.750, whereas the pin that I have is 1.625 inches long.

The axle shaft, as you can see is a CV jointed axle and is a around 37 inches long. This is the drivers side axle shaft.

In the third and fourth pics you can see why the breakage occured, I've gone spring over and have made a custom top swivel pin which is incorporated in to a hi-steer arm.

leafsprung
09-07-2010, 09:42 PM
definitely an oddball. Not a normal production axle. Where did you get it? I would try the stage one pins as there are only two variations of the 4 bolt pins. It would be a snap to machine a new swivel pin though. Would also take the guesswork out of the situation. With those tires, I would go easy on those that axle. the center section is bulletproof but the axles and CVs are wimpy. There isnt enough meat on the spindles to go beyond 30 spline either. If you go custom spindles there isnt enough room in the housing to go much bigger in the joint. Some 30/30 longfields would be a good option.

slorocco
09-07-2010, 10:08 PM
I got the axle from Hobson Bros. in the UK. I wanted to see what I could do to stick mostly to the rover parts bin for my build. Other than the cummins motor and SM420 trans, the rest is rover. Call me crazy. I've been running this set up for about 2 years now and this is the first drivetrain failure. So that's not doing too bad. I can start to see just a tiny bit of twist on the splines at the differential end.

I did have some custom swivel pins machined and then pressed into the hi-steer arms that I also had built. The problem is that when the studs snapped it tore up the inside of the Railko bush. They're hard to come by in this size. What do you think of having a bronze bushing made up and pressed into the Railko housing?

rwollschlager
09-07-2010, 10:36 PM
Im not sure about the bushing, but at this point would it be easier to convert it to an american dana 60 where parts are more available?

Another guess, what about the salisbury from a shorland armored car, far fetched, but IIRC they had a front salisbury that may not have had welded swivels....

-Rob

slorocco
09-08-2010, 06:56 AM
The US Dana 60 front axles are not cheap at all. buying one would cost around $500. Then it's got to be gone through for bearings, swap out gears to match the rear, and figure out what to do about the wheel bolt pattern. It all adds up.

Call me crazy but, apart from the engine and tranny, I really wanted to see what I could do with the rover stuff. I think I can get this sorted out for a fraction of that cost.

yorker
09-08-2010, 11:21 AM
I did have some custom swivel pins machined and then pressed into the hi-steer arms that I also had built. The problem is that when the studs snapped it tore up the inside of the Railko bush. They're hard to come by in this size. What do you think of having a bronze bushing made up and pressed into the Railko housing?


I would think that would work if you could work out a way to lube it or you could do something along the lines of the trunion bearing eliminator kit that TrailGear makes for Toyota Landcruisers:

http://www.trail-gear.com/trunnion-bearing-eliminator

slorocco
09-08-2010, 12:42 PM
Hmmm, I like that idea :thumb-up: I especially like the zerk fitting trick for lubrication.

yorker
09-09-2010, 03:11 PM
Any chance it is a Stonefield front axle? Another Thought- I had a vague recollection from reading somewhere that the prototype 101 front axles were bolt on and standard Rover 5 bolt wheel pattern but I am not sure about that. Maybe Ben Smith knows?

greenmeanie
09-09-2010, 04:47 PM
Not 101 prototype axles as they were ENVs with 5.57 diffs. All 101s have 6 stud bolt pattern which was dictated by a common wheel used on the L118 light gun.

The Stonefield was a real oddity built not too far from home. It used axles from Hurth who are a German company I believe so that's out too.

I had thought about the RB44 which replaced the 101 (Or at least tried to but was a heap) but it also has a 6 stud pattern. If this has hubs for stock Rover 5 stud wheels it limits us somewhat.

Some pictures would help! Dids the spring perches come in stock spring under or spring over?

Andrew IIA
09-09-2010, 08:13 PM
Man, this is a great thread :thumb-up:

stomper
09-10-2010, 06:03 AM
In reading an old copy of Land Rover enthusiast Magazine last night, there was an article on the series IIa and Series III One Ton models. The Series IIAs had an ENV front axle, which was replaced with a Salsbury front axle in the series III models. In looking at the photos, it still showed a 5 bolt wheel pattern. I don't know if this helps, but I found it ironic that I was reading something that may pertain to a thread on this forum.

Then again, after looking at the old posts on this thread, Ike ruled this out because of the width of the axle, and he knows a lot more that I on these rigs.