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bdaniel
03-19-2007, 09:39 PM
To all Series 2 owners, I am a Range Rover owner and have wanted to restore a Series 2 (a) for quite a while. I have read up on them and found a 1960 88" Diesel, complete, with Safari top. But it has been sitting outdoors for 20+ years. Undercarriage seems to be rust free, body only needs some minor repair. Price is reasonable, any advise on this year, especially the diesel eng, (2 lit, not 2.25) Any estimates on the rebuild costs? Would you take this on?
Brad

Bostonian1976
03-20-2007, 06:36 AM
pictures or details? Most Series owners won't tell you "don't do it".......we all seem to have a "save it!" mentality, so the answer you get will probably be a resounding "go for it!" :)

yorker
03-20-2007, 08:20 AM
If the price is right- go for it. If it has been sitting for 20 years you'll have a fair amount of work to do- depending on what region you live in and the weather there. As for the 2l diesel- maybe it is OK as is- do you know anything about its condition for sure? Engines don't always need a rebuild. I've seen rovers that were parked for years simply because a rear axle was broken and the previous owner gave up on it.

jp-
03-20-2007, 11:31 AM
I've seen rovers that were parked for years simply because a rear axle was broken and the previous owner gave up on it.

I think my 88" was used on a farm in Pennsylvania. It had been sitting for a looong time. The transmission was in three pieces in the back. So I figured that someone took it apart suspecting a trans problem. The funny thing is, when I put it all back together there was nothing wrong, not even a seized bearing.

Jeff Aronson
03-20-2007, 03:06 PM
I bought a '66 II-A that had been a farm truck in Vermont virtually all of its life. Yes, it made it 240 miles back to Maine running under its own power and without any drama. As its mileage was low, and it's used for short run chores only, it has not cost much to run or maintain.

However, that's also because I've chosen not to do much to it. It needs MUCH more that I'm providing for it right now. If I installed the new door seals, welded in new door posts, got all the instruments working, fixed the seats, found new wiper arms, etc., it could be much better.

That said, you should decide what you want the car to do and what you intend to use it for. As a rule, a car that has sat for 20 years will need rubber seals everywhere - in the brake and clutch systems, for a start. Even if they work, they will be so dissolved that they'll fail at inopportune times.

Consider replacing the master cylinders, all wheel cylinders, and the clutch slave cylinder. There's a rubber brake hose connecting the front and rear lines, and a rubber line from the master to the slave cylinder - replace them, too. Pray that the brake and clutch lines do not snap when you touch them.

The 2.0 diesel is not much for today's driving -it wasn't much for driving in 1958. I cannot recommend it unless the Rover will never be asked to go about 45 mph. Have you heard it run? Old Rover diesels were horrifically noisy.

Unless you're in love with owning and maintaining a diesel, and I'm not, I would approach this warily. Of course, a Series Rover tugs at heartstings!

Good luck,

Jeff

yorker
03-20-2007, 05:06 PM
I wouldn't let the diesel be a deal breaker though if everything else is nice and tidy and the price is right. 2.25p's are everywhere plus there are ample swap options as you can see from the other threads here.

fruitpunch
03-20-2007, 07:11 PM
Must agree on the 2liter diesel, I pulled a S1 88 out of a barn in Switzerland about 10 years ago. Ran ok but slow like a 2.25 gas pulling a loaded sankey. Also parts for the 2l are mostly NLA or big bucks and will most likely all be special order if they can be found.

If you go look again, look at the frame, bulkhead, and doors the rest is manageable.

Happy Rovering.....

Bostonian1976
03-21-2007, 07:26 AM
we'd love some pictures and a price if you don't mind. Sounds like quite an interesting find. If you do a search for "gray," you'll find my current Rover project which has also been sitting outdoors for 20+ years....

bdaniel
03-21-2007, 09:01 PM
Thanks, I did not take a camera at the time, but another guy did and I might try to get copies. It was solid sand tan color. Looked all original, inside full of spare parts. Original headliner was still in place.
Brad

bdaniel
03-21-2007, 09:10 PM
I agree that there's a lot of work to do. The truck is in a dessert enviroment and was kept with all windows closed. The rubber does need to be replaced, knew that before I saw it. I think the price will be in the $4000 range.
Brad

bdaniel
03-21-2007, 09:14 PM
The owner says the engine will run. It is complete, had large battery on both fender wells. The original generator in place I am considering changing the deisel out to a 2.25 lt. if I buy it.
Brad

bdaniel
03-21-2007, 09:28 PM
Thanks, I appreciate the advise and your right a Series 2 has been my desire for quite a while. I agree with all seals, the rubber, brakes, seats, and paint. The engine will depend on how it runs when fired. All accessories are fairly easy to replace. I'd prefer to convert it to neg. ground and an altenator. The dash in in good shape, all glass is ok, one crack, floor pans didn't have rust, doors were ok, even had liners in place.

bdaniel
03-21-2007, 09:35 PM
I did check the frame and there was grease and oil around most of the front, helps prevent rust. The doors were ok, bulkhead was hard to examine, it was covered with cables, hoses, etc. I would use the vehicle occationally and not mind the low speed limit, maybe even covert it to bio-deisel

TeriAnn
03-22-2007, 11:35 AM
I would use the vehicle occationally and not mind the low speed limit, maybe even covert it to bio-deisel

They are naturals for biodiesel. As someone mentioned previously, parts for this engine will be hard to come by. It is also the least powerful of the LR diesels. If you are willing to put a little $$ into the truck, a series rig already set up for diesel is a natural conversion to a 200 tdi. It will provide more power than the common 2.25L petrol and if you put the effort into it after a veggie oil conversion your fuel can be free for your labour.

Just a thought.

bdaniel
03-22-2007, 09:38 PM
Terri, do you mean boring out the 2Lt? Or a swap? Will the newer deisels fit?
Brad

LaneRover
03-23-2007, 01:27 AM
Though I have not had any experience with Rover diesels, I would say that if you are just going to use it occasionally around town, the Rover Diesel would be fine. My Rovers seem to love 45mph even with the 2.25 petrol. They will top out much higher but are still not speed demons in any way, shape or form.

I don't believe that Terri-Ann is talking about boring yours out but is talking about an engine swap.

If the engine runs, drive it like that while you decide what to do. Just remember that with a newer more powerful engine the brakes may not seem quite as 'adequate' as with the 2 liter diesel.

LaneRover

TeriAnn
03-23-2007, 09:10 AM
Terri, do you mean boring out the 2Lt? Or a swap? Will the newer deisels fit?
Brad

The Series II engine bay will hold any 4 cyl engine the Factory put into a SIIA or SIII with a minimum of work that includes the 2.5L turbo diesel.

The more powerful 200tdi engine requires new engine mounts plus a little more effort but has about twice the power of a 2L LR diesel. the tdis require a new radiator and an intercooler. It would have the power to be a daily driver and some set ups get mid plus MPG. Of course if you do it on french fry oil it will lust cost your labour once you get the fuel system set up.

The engine has to be imported but is a worthwhile conversion. The newer 300tdi can be made to fit but requires a bit more work. If I were driving an 88 I would have had a tdi engine under the bonnet a decade ago.

If you decide to go with a tdi, give Zeus timing gears a thought.

Carey
03-23-2007, 11:56 AM
My suggestion is to gauge how much time you have to spend rather than money. I'm certainly no expert, but the kind of resto you are considering will take more time than money, although the money part won't be insubstantial.

Best of luck though! Remember, if you dive in, deep water is better than shallow!