Door sitting flush to rear tub

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  • crankin
    5th Gear
    • Jul 2008
    • 696

    Door sitting flush to rear tub

    On my rebuild I used the Defender seals inside of the rivet on seals. They are quite a bit thicker...which makes me wonder if this is the cause of my doors not closing flush with rear tub. Removing the seals and shutting the doors flushes the doors pretty well.

    Has anyone used the defender seals and flushed their doors with the rear tub? or is the another trick, shims, etc...that i am missing?


    Birmabright Brotherhood

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    Clint Rankin - 1972 SIII SWB
  • solihull109
    1st Gear
    • May 2007
    • 191

    #2
    Re-adjust your striker.
    knowledge without experience is just information.... Mark Twain



    www.downeastcoachworks.com

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    • crankin
      5th Gear
      • Jul 2008
      • 696

      #3
      Originally posted by solihull109
      Re-adjust your striker.
      I have it has far back as I can. I actually drilled the holes a little bigger on the passenger side to slide them back deeper. Maybe need to drill a little more...


      Birmabright Brotherhood

      Take the vow, join the brotherhood!


      Clint Rankin - 1972 SIII SWB

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      • SafeAirOne
        Overdrive
        • Apr 2008
        • 3435

        #4
        What do you mean that the "Defender seals are inside the rivet on seals"? It is my understanding that the defender seals are slip-on and replace the other style of seals (after removing the circumferential lip). Do I have this wrong (I've not converted mine yet)?
        --Mark

        1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

        0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
        (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

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        • solihull109
          1st Gear
          • May 2007
          • 191

          #5
          Originally posted by SafeAirOne
          What do you mean that the "Defender seals are inside the rivet on seals"? It is my understanding that the defender seals are slip-on and replace the other style of seals (after removing the circumferential lip). Do I have this wrong (I've not converted mine yet)?
          Mark, you're correct. The Defender style are slip on.

          Drill more. You would surprised how much I've needed to drill Defenders for them to fit when new.
          knowledge without experience is just information.... Mark Twain



          www.downeastcoachworks.com

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          • crankin
            5th Gear
            • Jul 2008
            • 696

            #6
            Originally posted by SafeAirOne
            What do you mean that the "Defender seals are inside the rivet on seals"? It is my understanding that the defender seals are slip-on and replace the other style of seals (after removing the circumferential lip). Do I have this wrong (I've not converted mine yet)?
            You are correct. I had to grind the lip off to allow the defender seal to slide over.

            Looks like I will drill out more.


            Birmabright Brotherhood

            Take the vow, join the brotherhood!


            Clint Rankin - 1972 SIII SWB

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            • KevinNY
              4th Gear
              • Oct 2006
              • 484

              #7
              I cut the lip off the bulkhead since it was getting repainted, but actually found it no problem to slip the defender seal over the lip on the tub side.
              The Goat, 2.8 Daihatsu Td, '73 coil conversion

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              • scatterling
                1st Gear
                • Dec 2006
                • 183

                #8
                the lip can actually get cut off with tin snips. the only part that is a little hard is the winshield frame. Way less messy than grinding it off.
                Neil Hanekom
                '73 LHD 88
                '75 FFR 109 exMOD Build Photo's
                '99 D1

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