sputtering randomly at all speeds?? how to clean a webber?

[glbft1]

Hello all,
Truck was running great then all of a sudden it starts to sputter( I know a classic series sign!!) thought I was out of gas pulled over gas is fine, checked the filter dirty so replaced and
also pulled the wand in the tank and flushed out still acting funky here and there so wondering how to clean the carb feels like crap blocking the fuel supplyits a webber is there a certain place to look for gunk on this??
If its not this what electrical to look for??

[NickDawson]

Before you tinker with the carb, check the points and condenser.
Make sure they are clean, gapped appropriately, etc.
You might also check the voltage across the points - I had a bad condenser recently that caused similar sputtering.

[artpeck]

I had a similar issue on my D-90. Thought it was a fuel pump relay...etc etc. Turned out to be a loose connection of the coil which was solved by some emery paper, gently tightening the crimps and a little dialectric grease. Has running without a miss since.

[Terrys]

Before you tinker with the carb, check the points and condenser.
Make sure they are clean, gapped appropriately, etc.
You might also check the voltage across the points - I had a bad condenser recently that caused similar sputtering.
I'd say you're right on the money, Nick.

[glbft1]

Thanks guys will check the points and condenser today if i find everything with the points( gap and clean)can i replace the condenser without retiming??
Never done timing( the dark art) and didn't know if I can replace the condenser without screwing it up
Thanks Again
Greg

[stomper]

Don't be scared of timing. Do a search on timing by ear, or beer timing here on the board. It is really a very simple, and an essential skill that you will use throughout your Rover ownership.

If you are near the Augusta Maine area, shoot me a P.M. and I would be happy to teach you this skill. It is so easy, it can be done in a parking lot, and requires only a 7/16 wrench.

[Jeff Aronson]

Condensers usually don't "go bad"; they're bad right from the start. Do check the gap at the points, and look for pitting at the points themselves [a conical shaped point on one side and a cratered surface on the other side of the points]. Light sandpaper will clean them, and some compressed air and/or brake cleaner sprayed onto a piece of smooth paper will clean off any grit.

If the ignition side is fine, then turn to the Weber. You did report some junk in the filter and tank, so it might well have worked its way into the carb.

If you have a glass sediment bowl underneath your fuel pump, then shine a light on it and look to see if you can see grit laying on the bottom and/or a separation line of water and gas. If so, then remove the bowl, empty it, and tighten it back up. Remember there's a circular gasket on top of the glass bowl.

Then move to the carb itself. The Weber has a filter housed in a 3/4" brass bolt underneath the entry point where the fuel line comes into the carb itself. Remove it [but don't force it if it's hard to turn as it might strip the threads] and empty out the cylindrical filter and look in the base of the bolt for grit.

The Weber has two needles that are easy to reach, remove and clean. One is a screw on the valve cover side of the carb, up high. Unscrew it, spray it with carb or brake cleaner, spray carb cleaner into the orifice, and tighten it back in. The other is the idle mixture screw on the back side of the carb, facing the firewall. There's a spring around the center of it. Remove the screw and spring, and clean it off. Spray carb cleaner into the orifice. When you put the screw back in, tighten it until the spring is compressed, then unscrew it 1 1/2 turns. That should return your mixture to the correct setting.

No change? Then unscrew the clamp screw for the choke cable. Remove the 4 screws from the top of the carb bowl and carefully lift off the cover. You can pull it off to one side without removing the throttle linkage. Be gentle with the float, too. Peer down the carb bowl and look for grit on the bottom. Use a rag or shop towel to soak up the gas. There are two tiny jets screwed into the base of the carb bowl. Unscrew each and spray carb cleaner or compressed air into each orifice. You'll a couple of other holes in the carb body, so spray carb cleaner down all of them.

In my experience, cleaning those parts of the carb do the trick - I went through a similar issue this summer. There are other orifices and jets in the Weber, but they can be accessed only from the bottom of the car, which means you need to take it off the car.

The Weber is pretty bulletproof and as I remember your 109", the engine's operation did not show any signs of a vacuum leak, so I doubt you have a significant carb problem.

Let me know if this helps - I'm coming off island this morning and will be at the Rockland ferry around 11:45.

Jeff

[NickDawson]

It took me a while to get the hanging of timing as well. As Stomper suggested, the beer method is quite rewarding (for several reasons) as is simply using your ear to find the point where the engine smooths out.

I bought a timing light a while back and got pretty adept at using it thanks to a post form Jeff Aronson (In fact I clipped it as a text file and you can read it here (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/2551133/TimingLight/using%20a%20timing%20light.html))

What I've found most useful is using a multimeter and "static timing". Put the key in the on position (one click shy of engaging the starter) With the rotor set at the spark plug #1, you hook up the leads to opposite sides of the points. Rotate the distributor to slowly open the points. You want to find the point where the juuuuusttt barely open - as signaled by no voltage.

Now, someone please correct what I've written or omitted :D

[glbft1]

found the problem pulled the coil lead very dirty and corroded cleaned nd dap of grease right as rain.................. thanks