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NickDawson
10-31-2010, 12:27 PM
Hey folks,
Admittedly, I haven't ever given my taken a detailed inspection, but I've been under and around the truck enough to see it on a regular basis.

I was headed out for a drive today and found a puddle of petrol under the truck and a pretty steady drip coming from the tank. It appears to have spontaneously rusted - or at least reached the breaking point in a long slow rust process. I'm guessing my pressure wash of the underside last week didn't help (although the leak just started sometime between 10am and 1pm today... strange.

I'm going to order a new tank right away - anything else I should order at the same time? I'd rather not replace things I dont have to, but are there seals or anything I need to have to install the new one? The green bible doesn't suggest that there are.

stomper
10-31-2010, 12:44 PM
you may want to inspect the bolts that attach the tank to the outriggers and the frame. Start spraying the penetrating oil on them, and get some new replacement bolts to fit the new one with. Also, inspect the fuel filler hose that attaches to the tank. if it seems brittle and hard, you may want to order a replacement at the same time.

artpeck
10-31-2010, 01:45 PM
Having just reinstalled the tank I would second getting a filler hose. It was darn close to impossible to reinstall the original. As well there are gaskets for the sender and return lines and a gasket and foam insert for the filler. Best to order those as well.

NickDawson
10-31-2010, 01:53 PM
you may want to inspect the bolts that attach the tank to the outriggers and the frame.

without a doubt, they are getting replaced - I had to cut two out with a sawzall due to rust.

(me: honey, can you come hold the fire extinguisher? her: why? me: well....)

I would like to replace the mesh on the bottom of the draw tube. And since a new draw tube is north of $100, can I just get a clamp on metal mesh filter of some kind?


Here are some pics (the leak got worse after I poked around)
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1311/5132832834_a49a0c419a.jpg
More here (http://www.flickr.com/photos/nickdawson/sets/72157625156841673/with/5132834054/)


Disconcertingly, the outrigger behind the tank has quite a bit of "surface rust" (if there is such a thing) - prompted me to check the rest of the galvy frame, still rock solid. What should I do to stop the rust that is on this one outrigger?
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1339/5132834054_62347ccc19.jpg

Along those lines, should I paint or otherwise treat the new tank? I see a lot of people talking about pour 15 - would that be a good idea for both outrigger and tank? Inside of the tank or outside?

jac04
10-31-2010, 02:38 PM
I would definitely give the new tank a scuff & shoot with a durable paint. I used Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black on my new military tanks before they were installed. You could also have a body shop shoot it with a 2-part paint and/or 3M body schutz for the ultimate durable finish. I had considered truck bed coating, but I was worried that rust would form under it.

yorker
10-31-2010, 03:00 PM
I would like to replace the mesh on the bottom of the draw tube. And since a new draw tube is north of $100, can I just get a clamp on metal mesh filter of some kind?



Disconcertingly, the outrigger behind the tank has quite a bit of "surface rust" (if there is such a thing) - prompted me to check the rest of the galvy frame, still rock solid. What should I do to stop the rust that is on this one outrigger?



You can put a sock on the current tube, they are easy to find, especially if you have a local pick and pull junkyard- then simply wire it in place.

With the rust and the new tank, clean the surface and paint it (the outside). With something like Eastwood's Rust encapsulator (http://www.eastwood.com/rust-encapsulator.html)or Corroless.

Terrys
10-31-2010, 04:00 PM
Wow, that's not a leak, that's a gusher. Be careful.
I never reuse fasteners, and keep a good stock of grade 8 fine thread from 1/4 to 1/2"
The screen on the bottom of the pickup tube is a good idea, but difficult to replace. I did solder a fine piece of brass screening to one, once, but honestly, the screen in the sediment bowl will stop most flotsam, and what gets by that gets only as far as the inline filter in front of the carb.
How is it that you have un-galvanized outriggers on a galvanized frame? If they're still structurally sound, clean them up good and POR or other chassis coat them. If they are too far, not to fret, thise two outriggers aren't as expensive as the pickup tube, and not difficult to install at all.
The Britpart tanks our host sell aren't nearly as robust as the originals, so I'd agree that they ought to be coated with something other than what they come covered in.

lrdukdog
10-31-2010, 05:06 PM
"metal mesh filter of some kind?"
some time ago there was a thread about this and the round SS mesh used for paint spray guns was the answer most often put forward. They can be had at paint stores or good auto parts places.
Jim Wolf

Nium
10-31-2010, 05:42 PM
if you haven't you may want to syphon the rest of the gas out.

Looks like you may have pressure washed off the paint holding the gas in.

I don't know why people say Series don't get good gas mileage?

SafeAirOne
10-31-2010, 06:00 PM
I would like to replace the mesh on the bottom of the draw tube. And since a new draw tube is north of $100, can I just get a clamp on metal mesh filter of some kind?

http://siteground237.com/~gunsandr/showthread.php?24-Fuel-screen-filter-sock-for-fuel-tank-pick-up-tube

NickDawson
10-31-2010, 06:40 PM
if you haven't you may want to syphon the rest of the gas out.

Looks like you may have pressure washed off the paint holding the gas in.

I don't know why people say Series don't get good gas mileage?

Was the first thing I did. Drained it via the drain plug.
Filled up the mower and two cans :)

NRutterbush
10-31-2010, 10:43 PM
Along those lines, should I paint or otherwise treat the new tank? I see a lot of people talking about pour 15 - would that be a good idea for both outrigger and tank? Inside of the tank or outside?[/QUOTE]


The POR-15 company makes a fuel tank restoration kit. I've used it successfully on some Jaguar tanks that were full of pinholes on the bottom. After that experience, I use it any-time I'm cleaning up and restoring an old tank. I haven't bought one in a few years, but can't imaging that it would run more than $50-75. It leaves some sort of epoxy lining in the tank that will prevent rust from the inside out. I would look into using it even on a new tank. Their regular metal treating paint will probably be appropriate for the outside of a new tank, but remember that it takes about 35 years to get that bad.

When I used to live in Michigan, there was a company called Gas Tank Renew USA, that seemed to be able to epoxy clad and seal tanks too. I never tried it, as they seemed expensive at the time.

Rineheitzgabot
11-01-2010, 06:13 AM
Glad to hear you got the fuel out safely. I almost burned my house down about a year ago because The funnel tipped over, spilling about a gallon on the garage floor (before I could get the plug back in), then igniting with what must have been static electricity. If that's not bad enough, NEITHER fire extinguisher worked that I had on hand. The fire was directly below the vehicle.

I was able to milk enough water out of a garden hose in my garage attached to a spigot, to put it out, but not before getting a few burns and having my heart stop a few times (not really), and having the fire department show up.

The more pronounced heart attacks started occuring when the second fire started in my basement about 45 minutes later, after the firemen told me to flush the gasoline with my garden hose down my garage drain. Not a good day, and I will never forget it.

This started with exactly the same type of leak in my tank, so when I first started reading your post, I was alarmed. Again, glad you got it out okay.

NickDawson
11-01-2010, 07:00 AM
WOW! Scary Rineheitzgabot! Really could have turned out badly at your house, glad it didnt!

We live in the city so I do all my work on the street - fortunately on the weekends we can go hours without another car going by. Unfortunately for my neighbor, she was having an open house while I put on my "shade tree mechanic" display next door.

Rineheitzgabot
11-01-2010, 07:09 AM
Hahaha!

Funny thought. Sitting out in the street on a tire, grease to your elbows, couple of empty cans of beer, with more on the way, listening to Whitesnake, beating a bearing out with a ball peen hammer, all while your neighbor tries to sell her house 30 feet away. I like it!

Yeah, I thought about posting the narrative of it, as a sort of public service announcement. In fact, I may go ahead and do that now. The second half of the story is more frightening than the first.

bmohan55
11-01-2010, 08:43 AM
My pick up tube had no screen at all but I found a nylon sock at NAPA that did the trick.

shock
11-01-2010, 10:23 AM
I also put in a new tank and the screen on my filler tube was shot. The solution I came up with for the fine mesh screen was to put in a second inline gas filter just after the filler tube under the seat. That way if anything got into the line it was stopped before the fuel pump.

PavementEnds
11-01-2010, 11:08 AM
I did the POR 15 tank sealer treatment and it appears to have worked great -- just be sure to thoroughly mix the sealer. They offer a kit but for some additional $ you can buy the qt of sealer plus a gallon each of their Marine Clean and Metal Ready and forgo their fuel preserver. Probably would only need a qt of Metal Ready for prep on a new tank so total cost with qt of sealer ~$50. Cheap insurance!

JackIIA
11-01-2010, 11:50 AM
Anyone ever used "Red-Kote" to refurb the inside of their tank? It seems like a slightly different approach than the POR15 route. The Red-Kote stuff is much more rubbery almost bladder like from what I understand.

I had just assumed the way to go was the POR15 tank sealer, but the local radiator repair shop (which does a ton of tanks too) swears by Red-Kote.

Curious if anyone had ever used it and whether they were happy or unhappy with the results?

And yeah, POR15 and prep materials will run you around $75 to do a tank.

jac04
11-01-2010, 12:49 PM
^^ Info on gas tank repair & Red-Kote:
http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8412&highlight=red-kote

siii8873
11-01-2010, 02:37 PM
Ireplacedone ofminewith something I picked up at NAPA

JackIIA
11-01-2010, 05:26 PM
^^ Info on gas tank repair & Red-Kote:
http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8412&highlight=red-kote


Thanks Jeff

RoverForm
11-01-2010, 07:35 PM
Unfortunately for my neighbor, she was having an open house while I put on my "shade tree mechanic" display next door.
i found this amusing...

NickDawson
11-02-2010, 06:55 AM
I see a lot of talk about refurbishing a leaky tank - is that safe?
I know I sound cheap every day, but I just got a $5K repaid bill for my daily driver - I'd gladly defer any Rover costs for a few months if there was a way to safely treat this leaky tank. ... although, as I think off the cuff... at ~$200 for a new tank vs ~$100 for a fix...I'd probably go new anyway

yorker
11-02-2010, 05:25 PM
Sure a properly fixed tank is safe but it might not be economical.

Terrys
11-02-2010, 06:20 PM
Ireplacedone ofminewith
Stop eating crackers at the keyboard!