1966 seriia88 disk brake conversion

[MarkMukilteo]

I've been corresponding with Rocky Mountain Parabolics in Vancouver, B.C. and I've decided to go with their Torrel front disk brake conversion kit. Along with the disk brakes, I'm going to add a dual circuit brake line system and I'm trying to determine which master cylinder to use.

I've heard varying opinions on the subject. Some say that any master cylinder will work, while others say that with the drum brake MC "residual pressure" and the varying pressures and volumes required between disks and drums, only a specific "disk brake MC" should be used. There's also the boosted/non-boosted debate.

I can see some logic in some of the arguments, but I'm still confused. Can anyone put this to bed?

Thanks,
Mark

[RoverForm]

great topic! i was driving in the rain this morning and as the wet breaks started squeaking, i started pondering a 66 IIa 88 disc break conversion also...

as a side question, why did you decide on the Torrel? Is it a pricy set up?

[yorker]

Since you are buying the system from Rocky Mountain Parabolics why don't you ask them?

[TeriAnn]

as a side question, why did you decide on the Torrel? Is it a pricy set up?

I converted my Dormobile to Torrel disc brakes a few years ago. I did some research on what was out there which I documented in a web page (http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/discBrake.htm). I choose to go with the Torrel kit for my own conversion for several reasons. Chief among them are:

- The conversion uses off the shelf GM consumable parts. This means I hop down to my local auto parts store for new pads, rotors, flexible brake lines or new calipers. The down side is that the rotors need to be remachined for the larger wheel stud circle and large hub hole. This is something easily handled by any automotive machine shop. Rocky mountain carries already machined rotors ready to bolt on.

- The Torrel kit is complete. If your wheel bearings & a couple other standard LR hub parts are in good used condition there is nothing else to buy. You just follow the instructions and bolt them on. The level of complication is the same as if you R&Red the front brakes (including back plates) and the hubs. If you have done brakes before & replaced hub seals then you have already done all the operations needed for the swap.

- The conversion is the most economical one I have found to date.


http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/LR.images/DiscAssembled.jpg


And of course I documented my conversion by building yet another web page (http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/discBrake_Torrel.htm).

You can get by with an early single cylinder brake system but you will likely be unhappy with the amount of pedal pressure needed. I think the minimum acceptable system would include a upgrade to Late IIA or SIII dual power brakes. This means the late brake pedal assembly, a vacuum booster and dual master cylinder. Yes, when I converted my truck to power brakes I documented what I did in a web page (http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/dual_brake_conv.htm).

While the stock Series power brake system with the 6 inch vacuum booster works OK with dual brakes, the system would really benefit from a more powerful booster. The 10 inch booster that came on the US spec Defenders is a little too tall to fit under an unmodified Series bonnet. However there was an 8 inch booster used by LR on some vehicles built between the US spec SIII and the US spec Defenders that will improve braking boost.

The ultimate improvement comes with a GM hydroboost power brake system. An easy conversion if you have converted your Series truck to power steering but a bit of work to install a power steering pump on a 2.25L engine.

If I were to try and come up with the best conversion today I would go for the newly redesigned Series disc brake conversion kit offered by Heystee Automotive (http://www.heystee-automotive.com) and GM hydrostatic power brake booster system.

The new Heystee design is very similar to the Timm Cooper disc brake conversion (currently out of production) that Rovers North used to offer. Like Timm's design they use a custom hub and swivel housing castings that fit all US spec Defender brake components.

The biggest difference between Timm's NLA design and Paul Heystee's new design is in the swivel housing casting. Timm developed a universal casting that had to be machined for either the right or left side. Paul's design uses side specific castings which are slightly more compact and lighter in weight than Timm's universal housing.

BTW, After about 3-1/2 years experience with the Torrel disc brake conversion kit I'm still quite satisfied with them.

[yorker]

FWIW a couple more options:
http://www.rockymountainspares.co.uk/rocky/images/64-zoomed.jpg
http://www.rockymountainspares.co.uk/?page_id=41

SANTANA TYPE DISC BRAKE CONVERSION
This lower cost alternative to the RM vented brake kit is based on the Santana disc brake. It is supplied with everything that is needed to fit to the Series front axle. Two small areas 2mm x 25mm needs to be filed off the swivel housing casting to allow the calipers to fit.
Please click the "information" tab at the top of the page and go to "install guides" Disc brake and download the comprehensive illustrated guide on fitting the kit.
The Mintex pads and Brembo discs are readily available, wheel bearings (supplied)are standard Series type. For post 1980 (metric) S3 the stub axles will have to be replaced to earlier type.

Price: £569.87 (£485.00 exc VAT) · Product code: RMS050



also see:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/gremlin180/P1260085.jpg
http://fluffle-valve.com/SeriesDiscBrakes.aspx

[MarkMukilteo]

I'll go with the master cylinder that Rocky Mountain recommends. This brake conversion will probably cost me about $2K by the time it's done, but with today's Series prices I may be able to get my money back if I ever sell the truck. Thanks to TeriAnn and everyone else for the opinions/advice! :thumb-up:

[MarkMukilteo]

I've spoken with Jeremy at RMP and he's putting all the parts together for a dual circui boosted, front disk brake conversion. One nice thing about living in Washington (as opposed to the grey, cold, wet, Winter weather) is that I can zip up to Vancouver in my Audi and pick up the parts.
Thanks to TeriAnn and all the rest who offered their invaluable opinions.
Mark