fuel guage

[Tbedman]

Hi, Fuel guage started to act up. Went to zero. Any suggestions. Will check sender. Help Timco3:thumb-up:

[disco2hse]

Wire fell off?

[Broadstone]

Check you have power going to the gauge, if you do ground the gauge directly. If the needle rises the gauge is fine. I figure it to be the sender. The wires inside the sender are so fine that they can break quite easily.

[SafeAirOne]

How's the temp gauge? (trying to eliminate power supply as a problem).



The flow of electricity in this system is:

12v to the voltage stabilizer

10v out of the voltage stabilizer to the fuel and temp gauges

then from the fuel gauge to the fuel level sender (+)

then from the sender (-) to ground.


An open circuit (broken wire, missing wire, poor contact or broken/stuck sender) will cause the gauge to remain "dead"

No power to or from the voltage stabilizer will have the same effect.

[Tbedman]

Hi, The sender unit is in the gas talk so I assume the tank needs to come off. Is this correct? Timco3:thumb-up:

[SafeAirOne]

Hi, The sender unit is in the gas talk so I assume the tank needs to come off. Is this correct? Timco3:thumb-up:


What vehicle are we talking about? Usually you don't need to drop the tank to access the senders.

The underseat tanks can usually be accessed from the top by removing the panel under the seat and rear-tank 109s can be accessed through the forward access panel in the floor of the tub.

If you turn the ignition to "run" and put a volt meter on the (+) wire of the fuel sender, you should have about 10v showing. You should also have continuity between the (-) terminal (if equipped) and ground. In the absense of a (-) terminal, the top of the sender should have electrical continuity with ground (the chassis or body).

Note: If you have a Pertronics electronic ignition, do not leave the ignition in "run" very long at all or you might fry the Pertronics.