Ideas on towing a Series IIA?

[Regan]

This past Thanskgiving week, my son and I drove over 800 miles, each way, to Big Bend, TX for hiking and camping. This in a '67 Series IIA with original 2.25L engine and Roverdrive. I got about 52 - 54 MPH average speed, some more, some less, however, going up against a strong headwind and pretty high hills on I-10 was not too smart. It was an experience to remember! Flashers on (handled by my son) and speed drops to low 30 and 40 MPH. We did this for hours and thankfully no one complained or ran us over. I don't plan to do this again as I have another trip to EXPO in April. It's not that I don't want the drive in the LR, I just feel it is too dangerous going those speeds on inclines or up against headwinds and could put people at risk, including ours :nono:.

So, I will consider towing the Series IIA west and/or upgrade/rebuild/modify the 2.25L. I won't expect any miricles though wityh the engine as it is what it is. Any suggestions on towing an older Land Rover, Do's and Don'ts?

Thanks, Regan

[Jim-ME]

Think about locking hubs on all 4 wheels to tow with. My diesel 88 does about the same in the MPH category. I just stick to the right lane and allow folks to go around. As long as you can go the minimum posted speed you shouldn't worry too much.
Jim

[RoverForm]

what's the distance? what are you towing with?

i think ideally you'd be well served with a car trailer.

http://www.hayestrailersales.com/images/trailers/eby/car_hauler/aluminum%20car%20trailer%20004.jpg

[Regan]

Would be using a late model Chev. 4X4 Tahoe Z71. Just getting all the info at this time; trailer looks great and certainly would work, just have no room to store it.
Regan

[RoverForm]

understood. you can rent them. also, you can rent a tow dolly:

http://www.andrewzook.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=7409&g2_serialNumber=16

i used something like this to tow a '79 SIII 109 about 60 miles. worked fine.

[Enigma]

I built a wishbone shaped tow bar that I bolt on the front bumper of the rover and when I towed I had an 86 Chevy PU with a 305 V8. I also made towing lights from a piece of plywood and trailer lights and wired them with a flat cable that I shove through the tub, under the vent and to the front. I use cheap cable ties to keep it in place and cut them off when they are not needed.

I have the hubs unlocked and if I remember correctly I put the tranny in 4 th with the Hi-Lo lever in the neutral position.

There is a reason for this but I don't remember why.

Cheers John

[Mountain132]

When moving I pulled the 88 with a reese tow bar from GA to MA. However the tow bar was mounted to a winch plate that was bolted to the bumper and frame. I would reinforce the front bumper if you go that route. Check your toe in/out and tire pressure. My tires were bald by the time I arrived.

[Tim Smith]

...I have the hubs unlocked and if I remember correctly I put the tranny in 4 th with the Hi-Lo lever in the neutral position.

There is a reason for this but I don't remember why...
John is right. If you don't put the transfer-case in neutral, you will wear out the 2nd gear distance piece because the input shaft of the transmission is not turning. The transmission wasn't designed to be turned for long distances with the engine off. Put the transmission in gear and the transfer case in neutral and you'll have no worries.

Don't ask how I know this. ;)

[Regan]

Thanks, for the info. I will make some notes on this as I look forward to my options. I did know there were some things that had to be done for towing, like Hi-Lo in neutral, but did not know about gear in 4th, etc. I don't want the same fate of others, should that have been the case. Regan

[masonater]

I towed my 109 about 1000 miles on a uhaul dolly with my 2000 grand cherokee V8. I took the rear axle shafts out and that was all i did on the rover. Was not the most fun ive had considering i had a few snow storms on the way. It pretty much cut my gas milage in half and beat my jeep up good. I know i didnt have the ideal tow rig but it worked. After renting the dolly for around 250 one way and paying for gas i will probably have the rover trucked when it comes back home.

[LR Max]

what's the distance? what are you towing with?

i think ideally you'd be well served with a car trailer.

http://www.hayestrailersales.com/images/trailers/eby/car_hauler/aluminum%20car%20trailer%20004.jpg

This.

Or a Penske trailer. I say Penske trailer because I've had hit n' miss with UHAUL trailers. However Penskes have always been solid and in great condition. This will probably be the best option for you if you are only going to tow once or twice a year.

[galen216]

Just flat tow it. For a long distance trip unbolt the driveshafts at the diffs and hang them up. Then you don't have to worry about 4th gear, neutral and all that. You also don't have the weight of trailer on top of the already heavy Rover.

I have flat towed and trailered and would flat tow any time.

The other suggestion that is best was the first one. I know someone that put locking hubs front and rear. Unlock all four hubs and go. No driveshafts, 4th gear, tc in neutral or any other items to worry about.

[RoverForm]

I say Penske trailer because I've had hit n' miss with UHAUL trailers.
solid advice. i towed a closed uhaul trailer from boston to los angeles and somewhere in new mexico it blew a leaf spring and dropped an axle. we unloaded it into one of our vans, left it in a burned out abandoned town, gave to coordinates to uhaul and told them to come pick it up.

if you go uhaul, make sure it's not an older trailer.


Then you don't have to worry about 4th gear, neutral and all that.
what's the rationale for 4th gear/neutral flat towing?

[galen216]

I may get this wrong but it is the basic point. The PTO in the trans/tc always has the main shaft turning. So even if the tc is in neutral the transmission is still spinning as the road wheels rotates. If you put it in gear the gears will also spin and lubricate the main shaft as the transmission turns. Without the transmission in gear the bearings of the main shaft would get no lubrication.

If you disconnect the driveshafts, axles or however you choose do it, no need to worry about damage to the drivetrain because it will be disconnected from the road.

[Tim Smith]

...what's the rationale for 4th gear/neutral flat towing?It's that distance piece I noted above. If the transmission is turning without the engine on, you will wear that out much faster than normal. Of course there is general wear and tear on the bearings, gears and other bushings too if you let the transmission turn for no reason.

Pulling the drive shafts would be an even more fail-safe approach to avoiding wear but that does require pulling out a few bolts. Not difficult but some owners aren't too comfortable doing it unless they have done it before. There is also the risk of running yourself over unless you know that pulling the drive shafts will disconnect your parking brake. :eek:

[Terrys]

I may get this wrong but it is the basic point. The PTO in the trans/tc always has the main shaft turning. So even if the tc is in neutral the transmission is still spinning as the road wheels rotates. .
That is not correct. If The TC is in neutral, the only thing spinning is the rear output shaft, which is bathed in oil. Nothing from that point towards the engine is turning.