Bolts

[msggunny]

Ok, so i now have my 72 stripped down to the chassis and should start to graft in the 77 body parts and engine this winter.

I am planning on replacing all the body mounting bolts due to their , rusty and pitted condition.

Stainless or zinc coated?

Which would be better to use and reduce the possibility of galvonic/alloy contaminaton corrosion?

Does anyone have a list of all the bolts and sizes for a SIII 88 as far as mounting the body is concerned?

Thanks.

[Terrys]

Gunny, strongly suggest you not use stainless. First off, they are not even half as strong as grade 8 bolts. Secondly, 18-8 (304 or 316) tend to gall when tightened and then loosened. This is because the threads deform when tightened, due to the 'taffy-like' ductility.
99% of the bolts you will need are 5/16", and 1/4", fine thread. There are perhaps 2 dozen 3/8", like 8 for each driveshaft, 4 for trans mount to chassis. Google FASTENAL. They must have a store in Portland, if not even nearer to Kittery. They don't sell singles, but you use the better part of a bag (100), if not on this truck, others. I buy 1" & 1 1/4" 1/4x28, and 1 1/4" 5/16x24. Get Grade 8 automotive, they are anodized. Don't forget a bag of flat washers. I don't bother with lockwashers, because I buy Nylock nuts.
edit: I just checked my catalog. They have a store in Portsmouth.

[siii8873]

Buying bolts bulk is the way to go. i concur with the grade 8 zinc bolts. I get my bolts from "bolt depot" on line. From my reading on galvanic corrosion, Zinc/aluminum is better than Stainless/aluminum. The bolts may corrode a little faster but they should have less effect on aluminum.
I slop some waxoyl on all threads , black stuff not cavity stuff. Not sure if it helps time will tell.

[KevinNY]

I use Grade 8 for anything truly load bearing and galvanized for stuff like the seatbox.

[TedW]

FWIW I've seen little or no galvanic corrosion from 20 year-old stainless / aluminum joints.

Galling is a very real issue with large stainless nuts & bolts, but can be prevented with a little WD or anti-sieze. I've never had the problem with the smaller sized stuff you will use the most of.

Agree with Kevin on Grade 8 for load-bearing bits.

[jac04]

IMO, Grade 8 are not required for most load-bearing applications. Grade 5 will do just fine. The benefit to Grade 8 is that they are usually available in yellow zinc (zinc with a chromate treatment), which is more corrosion resistant that regular zinc. It seems to be tough to find Grade 5 fasteners in yellow zinc.

[Mountain132]

Check out the Belgian Parts catalog it has all the bolt sized listed next to the part numbers and photos, excellent reference. Before I found it I was bringing them in and matching them up in the hardware store (PITA), plus I ground most of them off so it only gets you so far. I'm doing the same thing right now and am using grade 8 from my local hardware store. I buy a bag of assorted sized based on what things I'm working on and I've been averaging $50 a week. Bulk is the way to go. I'll check out those sites mentioned above.

Anyone interested PM me with your email address and I'll send you the pdf, it is too large to post (8247KB) and I can't remember where I found it. Maybe someone on here knows. The file name I downloaded is listed below

LR_4x2_parts_cat_Series3_Belgium_Army_2-5_petrol.pdf

[solihull109]

Gunny, strongly suggest you not use stainless. First off, they are not even half as strong as grade 8 bolts. Secondly, 18-8 (304 or 316) tend to gall when tightened and then loosened. This is because the threads deform when tightened, due to the 'taffy-like' ductility.
99% of the bolts you will need are 5/16", and 1/4", fine thread. There are perhaps 2 dozen 3/8", like 8 for each driveshaft, 4 for trans mount to chassis. Google FASTENAL. They must have a store in Portland, if not even nearer to Kittery. They don't sell singles, but you use the better part of a bag (100), if not on this truck, others. I buy 1" & 1 1/4" 1/4x28, and 1 1/4" 5/16x24. Get Grade 8 automotive, they are anodized. Don't forget a bag of flat washers. I don't bother with lockwashers, because I buy Nylock nuts.
edit: I just checked my catalog. They have a store in Portsmouth.

I'll second not to use Stainless. It's not worth the hassle, and if you're using a good bolt with a zinc coating, you'll be amazed at how well that holds up. I prefer Lawson Supply for hardware, the grade 5 has an excellent zinc coating that even withstands Maine's abuse.

[morgant]

Check out the Belgian Parts catalog it has all the bolt sized listed next to the part numbers and photos, excellent reference. Before I found it I was bringing them in and matching them up in the hardware store (PITA), plus I ground most of them off so it only gets you so far.

I'm in the same boat right now. Have ground off nearly every nut & bolt I've come across. Looked through the Belgian Parts Catalog (which is for Series III, which mine fortunately is) and—sure enough!—all the bolts are specified!

Excellent find!


I can't remember where I found it. Maybe someone on here knows. The file name I downloaded is listed below

LR_4x2_parts_cat_Series3_Belgium_Army_2-5_petrol.pdf

I found it at http://www.defenderaction.nl/media/text/manuals/LR_4x2_parts_cat_Series3_Belgium_Army_2-5_petrol.pdf

[mongoswede]

I'e used some chrome bolts on various applications and find that they hold up very well and have not corroded yet. The draw back is they are very expensive.

[msggunny]

http://www.defenderaction.nl/media/text/manuals/LR_4x2_parts_cat_Series3_Belgium_Army_2-5_petrol.pdf

Here you go.

[Mountain132]

Anyone interested PM me with your email address and I'll send you the pdf, it is too large to post (8247KB) and I can't remember where I found it. Maybe someone on here knows. The file name I downloaded is listed below

LR_4x2_parts_cat_Series3_Belgium_Army_2-5_petrol.pdf

Link is now provided in the thread so stop PMing me. Just kidding hope you find it well. I'm trying to print it from work 50 pages at a time. Last thing I need to do is jam the printer with 300 pages of land rover schematics

[JackIIA]

And if you really are having trouble sleeping....

Check out this link for FAQs on bolts, sheer strengths, use of plain washers with lockwashers, etc. etc....

http://www.boltscience.com/pages/faq.htm

[msggunny]

Link is now provided in the thread so stop PMing me. Just kidding hope you find it well. I'm trying to print it from work 50 pages at a time. Last thing I need to do is jam the printer with 300 pages of land rover schematics

If your eyesight is good enough just print 4 pages on one. Makes it a bit more manageable.

Plus i didnt feel as bad when i printed 75 pages off at work instead of 300....

[Mountain132]

And if you really are having trouble sleeping....

Check out this link for FAQs on bolts, sheer strengths, use of plain washers with lockwashers, etc. etc....

http://www.boltscience.com/pages/faq.htm


You're killing me, is there a test on this?

I did however find it interesting especially since I had an argument about "short bolting" when I was too lazy to go back to the hardware store after getting bolts a little short.

[albersj51]

Great thread! I am taking my 67 S2A down to the frame in a few weeks and I want to replace all of the body To frame bolts (have a feeling I'll be destroying a lot of them). Mountain132 was kind enough to email me the PDF . As I was creating a file of all the bolts to order I realized s3 bolts may differ from s2a bolts. Can someone confirm that LR didn't change bolts/threads from models? Also, if anyone already has a list of what I would need that would be awesome! Mainly want to make sure I have anything that connects to the frame or anything likely to strip or require cutting off. If not, I'll post my file for general knowledge. Thanks!

[mrdoiron]

Great thread! ......

Agreed, part of the beauty of this site is discovering what you didn't know you didn't know. Thanks for lending your homework boyz...

mike

[albersj51]

OK, attached is an Excel file listing bolts, nuts, washers, screws, etc from the Belgian manual. This is not EVERYTHING, just what I think I need to remove/replace as I remove the body. Does this look like a good list? Also, I expected to see British Fine Thread type of bolts, but all are UNF and UNC...is this right for a IIA? Lastly, anyone know the length of the bulkhead to chassis bolt?

Give the file a look and let me know if it looks "right" or not. Thanks!

Jason

[albersj51]

File wouldnt attach so I did a copy/paste...

Clutch Pedal assembly
QtyBolt, 1/4" UNF X 1" long1Nut, 1/4" UNF1Bolt, 5/16" UNF X 7/8" long6Spring washer6plain washer6Drive screw6Fuel TankScrew, 5/16" UNF X 3/4" long6Plain washer12Spring washer6Bolt, 5/16" UNF X1 1/2" Long (Shouldered)2Washer2Rubber Bush4Nut, 5/16" UNF2Stiffener Plate2Spring washer2Bolt, 10 UNF5Plain washer5Large Plain Washer5Spring Clip5Spring Washer5Nut, 10 UNF5 AcceleratorBolt, 1/4" UNF X 5/8" Long4Spring Washer4Nut, 1/4" UNF4Pinch Bolt, 1/4" UNF X 5/8" Long5Plain washer10Nut, 1/4" UNF5Bolt, 1/4" UNF X 1/2" Long2Spring Washer2Nut, 1/4" UNF2Bolt, 1/4" UNF X 3/4" long2Spring washer2Plain washer2Nut, 1/4" UNF2Pinch Bolt, 5/16" UNF X 7/8" Long1Nut, 5/16" UNF1Stop Bolt, 5/16" UNF X 1 1/8" long1Plain washer2Nut, 5/16" UNF2Bolt, 1/4" UNF X 1 1/4" Long1Plain washer2Nut, 1/4" UNF1Hand ThrottleBolt, 10 UNF X 5/8" long3Radiator PanelBolt, 1/4" UNF X 5/8" Long13Spring Washer13Nut, 1/4" UNF13Brake PedalBolt, 5/16" UNF X 5/8" long6Spring Washer6Plain Washer6 SteeringBolt, 5/16" UNC X 2" Long1Spring Washer1Set Bolt, 5/16" UNC X 3/4" Long4Bolt, 5/16" UNF X 3 3/8" Long6Plain Washer6Plain Washer6Spring Washer6Nut, 5/16" UNF6Bolt, 1/4" UNF X 1" Long3Shim Washer3Plain Washer3Spring Washer3Nut, 1/4" UNF3Self Lock Bolt, 7/16" UNC X 1"2Plain Washer4Nylock Nut, 7/16" UNF2Bolt, 5/16" UNF X 7/8" Long4Plain Washer10Nut, 5/16" UNF4Screw, 5/16" UNF X 3/4" Long2Spring Washer2Plain Washer2Screw, 5/16" UNF X 3/4" Long2Spring Washer2Plain Washer2Bolt, 1/4" UNF X 7/8" Long2Spring Washer2Plain Washer2Chassis FrameBolt, 3/8" UNF X 3 1/2" Long4Self Locking Nut, 3/8" UNF4Bolt, 3/8" UNF X 2 3/4" Long8Plain Washer8Self Locking Nut, 3/8" UNF8Bolt, 1/4" UNF X 5/8" Long3Spring Washer3Nut 1/4" UNF3Rad PanelBolt, 5/16" UNF X 1 1/4" Long3Plain Washer3Rubber Buffer3Screw, taptite 1/4" UNC X 1/2" Long2Spring Washer2Plain Washer2BulkheadTie Bolt, 1/2" UNF2Plain Washer2Nut, 1/2" UNF2FloorBolt, 1/4" UNF X 3/4" Long4Spring Washer4Plain Washer4Nut, 1/4" UNF4Rear TubBolt, 1/4" UNF X 3/4" Long2Plain Washer2Fan Disc Washer2Nut, 1/4" UNF2Bolt, 1/4" UNF X 5/8" Long4Spring Washer4Nut, 1/4" UNF4Set Screw, 5/16" UNF X 1 1/8" Long4Bolt, 5/16" UNF X 7/8" Long10Fan Disc Washer14Nut, 5/16" UNF10DoorsScrew, 5/16" UNF X 2" Long8Spring Washer8Nut, 5/16" UNF 8Screw, 5/16" UNF X 1 1/2" Long8Nut, 5/16" UNF 8Bolt, 1/4" UNF X 3/4" Long6Spring Washer6Plain Washer6Sill PanelBolt, 1/4" UNF X 3/4" Long8Plain Washer16Spring Washer8Nut, 1/4" UNF8Bolt, 5/16" UNF X 3/4" Long4Plain Washer4Spring Washer4Spire Nut, 5/16" UNF4Bolt, 1/4" UNF X 5/8" Long4Plain Washer8Spring Washer4Nut, 1/4" UNF4Bolt, 1/4" UNF X 5/8" Long12Plain Washer24Spring Washer12Nut, 1/4" UNF12Bolt, 1/4" UNF X 5/8" Long2Spring Washer2Plain Washer4Nut, 1/4" UNF2Bolt, 1/4" UNF X 5/8" Long4Screw, 1/4" UNF X 5/8" Long (MUSH HD)2Plain Washer4Spring Washer6Nut, 1/4" UNF6TubBolt, 1/4" UNF X 3/4" Long2Plain Washer2Shim2Fan Disc Washer2Nut, 1/4 UNF2Bolt, 1/4" UNF X 5/8" Long4Spring Washer4Nut, 1/4 UNF4Set Screw, 5/16" UNF X 1 1/8" Long4Bolt, 5/16" UNF X 7/8" Long10Fan Disc Washer14Nut, 5/16" UNF10Fuel CoverScrew, 2BA X 1/2" long2Plain Washer2Spring Washer2Nut, 2BA2Drive Screw4Washer4Bolt, 1/4" UNF X 5/8" Long8Plain Washer8Spring Washer8Nut, 1/4" UNF8Bolt, 1/4" UNF X 1" Long1Plain Washer2Spring Washer1Nut, 1/4" UNF1

[Mountain132]

The SIIA and SIII parts manuals indicate which thread (BSF/UNF/UNC) is used over certain model years. For example the shackle bolts which attach the leaf springs to the frame may be BSF over a certain period of time then switch to UNF for later models. What they don't often show is the length and diameter which the belgian manual shows.

I would think that in any application where you are replacing both the bolt and nut that you could use any thread pitch as long as the diameter and length are consistent with the belgian manual. In applications where you need to mate a new bolt to a threaded opening such as the drive flange, then you need to make sure to get the right one. As you disassemble, keep the old bolts with the component even if you are going to replace them, it makes this process easier.