Series 73 Repairs + Modifications

[IslandRover]

Hi.....I am about to take on some repairs and needed modifications to my '73 Series III (88) and was hoping for some of your advice on the following areas. I'm still new to LRs (and mechanics in general) and highly addicted as well as excited to learn during this process. I don't have bottomless pockets by any means but have saved up some money to put towards this project. Any insight from your years of experience would be greatly appreciated. Thanks very much in advance!

My wife, dog, and I run our Rover on the island 2 miles max per day and use it on the beach in the summer on weekends (when we get a free one). It's basically a family, daily driver without highways that we want to be comfortable, reliable and provide years of use. We are also trying to avoid cosmetic touches that make our LR appear "modified". We're trying to update her and keep her looking as classic as possible in appearance.

Questions / Thoughts:

SUSPENSION
- Rocky Mountain Parabolics + Pro Comp 9000 Shocks VS Rovers North Parabolic + Shock Kit
- Is it worth it to buy RM's and pay the shipping of $160 they charge from Canada to the East Coast?
- How to decide if the 2 or 3 leaf rear is best?
- Are parabolics definitely a worthwhile upgrade?
- Recommended Shocks needed for daily + beach use (no off-road)?

TIRES
** I have 15 inch wheels and not sure on the size / width that will best suit us.
- Michelin LTX A/T2 worth the price?
- Or is a BF Goodrich All Terrain a good choice to save a few bucks?
- Or go for a more affordable passenger tire so its better for the beach (when we deflate).
- Tire Rack have the best prices?

BATTERY
- Thoughts on brands?
- Original style?

CARBURATOR
- Thoughts on best brands for most affordable cost?

SEATBELTS
- Is it possible to find original static 3 point or lap belts.

I will definitely have more questions so if you guys are cool with it I'd like to post more thoughts as I encounter the issues on my LR.

THANKS A MILLION! The LR community is truly awesome so thanks for having me.

[jac04]

Suspension:
I have personally used both RM and RN (made by Woodhead) parabolics, both with OME shocks. IMO, the RN springs fit better and appeared to be better quality versus the RM springs (and they were less expensive). If you go RN, then your only choice is 2 leaf front / 3 leaf rears. I have them on my soft-top Lightweight and the rear sits slightly higher than the front and they provide an excellent ride coupled with the OME shocks. Some people think the OME shocks are a little stiff for the parabolics (over-dampened), and report good results with the ProComp shocks.

My only suggestion is that you use the heavy duty U-bolts from Rocky Mountain (or see if a local spring shop can supply the proper 7/16" U-bolts). They are the same size as the original factory U-bolts and are worth the extra $ in my opinion. The replacement U-bolts that come with the RN springs are much smaller diameter than the originals.

Tires:
I have no experience with 15" tires for the Rover, so I'll let others comment on size. I buy lots of tires from the Tire Rack because they have excellent selection & price. However, most local tire shops have caught on to TR, and they will usually match their price. If the local place will give you a good price, then stay local - it pays off if you need a flat repaired or other tire work.

Michelin makes excellent quality tires. Are they worth the price? For a commuter vehicle or normal daily driver, the performance and treadwear may be worth the extra $. For your application, not so much, epecially if you are on a budget. However, I've been called a tire snob before, so I can completely understand wanting to buy quality tires.

Battery:
Put the biggest battery in it that you can find. I recently researched batteries before I bought one for the Lightweight. I went with a NAPA Select 84 Group 27. This is the biggest that will fit in the tray. IIRC, the original battery was a Group 24.

Carburetor:
Lots of opinions on carbs out there. If you want a brand new carb at a decent price, buy a Weber 34ICH (part number 15290.027). Your SIII should already be set up for the Weber, so no point in buying the whole kit from RN. The 34ICH can be bought for $149.95 from http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/34_ICH_p/15290.027.htm .

Seat belts:
RN has a wide selection of seat belts. I was able to source original genuine inertia reel belts from the UK for a very reasonable price. Check a place like www.lrseries.com .

[TedW]

I agree with jac04 on the RNorth parabolics. They're terrific.

I also run a soft top and find the 3-leaf rears to be fine. If you have a hard top then so much the better - the extra weight will soften the ride even more.

I had OME shocks but found them to be too stiff for my taste, so I put my original Woodheads back on and have been very happy - comfy ride and no body roll at all with my soft top.

Also agree on the Weber - set it and forget it.

Keep those questions coming!

[LR Max]

I will give you my opinion/experience:

1. RM springs + OME. For the RM springs, just look around. It really comes down to shipping with these springs. Surprisingly, after everything (for me) buying RM's from Roversnorth was the cheapest overall. Bought my OME shocks from 4 Wheel Parts America. They are by far, the cheapest for that kinda stuff.

2. BFG A/Ts will work great for what you want them to do. LTX's shine in the towing department (think gooseneck trailer). Also BFG's are probably a little better with your planned of roading.

3. The 34ICH and Rochester carb are both solid carbs. Be warned, though: Both carbs need to have their main jet changed when you buy them! But once you do that, they'll be pretty worry free. Put a good NAPA fuel filter before it and it'll last you forever.

[tmckeon88]

TIRES: Let me jump on the bandwagon for BFG All-Terrain TAs. I drove my Series IIA from Alaska to Tierra del Fuego on a set of those and didn't even have so much as a slow leak. Great tires- I just bought a replacement pair for about $160 each.

Tom

[IslandRover]

THANK YOU! THANK YOU!

Anyone have thoughts on 15 inch tire widths? I've heard alot of good things about the BFG All terrain so will prob opt for those. (I currently have Michelins but lost them to sidewall cracking from the previous owner having the LR sit in his garage for a long time thus why I was thinking of going with them again.)

Are the OME shocks overkill if we don't go off-roading? Better off with Pro Comps or another brand? + I'm not a fan of the yellow on OMEs so wondering if I can paint them white/black so they blend in. Any thoughts?

My overall goal is to update our LR so she looks (close to) stock but runs more efficiently.

Thanks again. I'll be back to update and post more questions! Really appreciate all your input!

[jac04]

Be warned, though: Both carbs need to have their main jet changed when you buy them!

If you read the BP write-up on carbs, you are led to believe this. However, the current spec Weber 34ICH (part number 15290.027) is factory jetted as follows:
Main Jet = 165
Em. Tube = F6
Air Corr. Jet = 190

These are the BP recommended 'starting point' jets for the 2.25L if at sea level.

[TedW]

Are the OME shocks overkill if we don't go off-roading? Better off with Pro Comps or another brand? + I'm not a fan of the yellow on OMEs so wondering if I can paint them white/black so they blend in. Any thoughts?

My overall goal is to update our LR so she looks (close to) stock but runs more efficiently.

I suggest that you leave your original equipment shocks on and see how you like the ride with the parabolics. If you are unhappy with them you can always switch them out later. If I had done this I would never have wasted my money on the Old Man Emus, which for me were way too stiff.

No disrespect meant to OME, they just weren't right for me.

[fishguy]

Hi...I don't have bottomless pockets by any means but have saved up some money to put towards this project.

My wife, dog, and I run our Rover on the island 2 miles max per day and use it on the beach in the summer on weekends (when we get a free one). It's basically a family, daily driver without highways that we want to be comfortable, reliable and provide years of use. We are also trying to avoid cosmetic touches that make our LR appear "modified". We're trying to update her and keep her looking as classic as possible in appearance.

Questions / Thoughts:

SUSPENSION
- Rocky Mountain Parabolics + Pro Comp 9000 Shocks VS Rovers North Parabolic + Shock Kit

TIRES
** I have 15 inch wheels and not sure on the size / width that will best suit us.

CARBURATOR
- Thoughts on best brands for most affordable cost?

I carved down your questions to what I'm comfortable commenting on...

I ran my Series 3 for 10 years as a daily driver till the frame failed & after a 2 year wait its in the middle of a slow rebuild.

What Island and therefore what conditions? If I'm reading your post correctly it's on road, on sand and maybe some dirt roads? Basic AT's work fine...I ran no name ones (15's) and participated in some beginner group runs with no issues. Beach tire size required minimum for the national seashore beach permit is P225 / 70 R15 on the 15" rim.

Loved my parabolics with stock shocks...and my weber

[IslandRover]

Great - thanks Guys!

Since it sounds like the RN and RM parabolics are just about equal, then I'm going to get the RN parabolics - buy local+ US and saving some $$ sounds good to me. I'll keep my stock shocks for now (I think they are on there way out) and see how it goes from there. Good call.

I'm going to take your advice on the Weber carb too.

Also, are there any online video / tutorials for how to change out shocks?

Really appreciate all the input - thanks again!

[stomper]

Changing shocks is silly easy, as long as they aren't rusted in place. Do you have the green service manuals for your Land Rover? (AKA the Green Bible). If not, I would recommend you pick them up. This is all you will practically ever need to fix anything on the Rover. (that and this forum )

I'm going to let Nick Dawson explain how to change a shock. He came to this forum with no wrenching ability at all (no offense Nick) and he is learning a ton. He was forced into learning shock replacement, and can give you a great step by step tutorial. Take it away Nick!

[IslandRover]

BATTERY
Where would you recommend I go to find the best / biggest I can use?
I would love to get the original IIRC you mentioned if it's still possible....or is there a comp out there?

Thanks!

[stomper]

Jac04 wrote:
NAPA Select 84 Group 27. This is the biggest that will fit in the tray. IIRC, the original battery was a Group 24.

NAPA batteries are great, but as long as it is the correct size, you should be fine. DieHard, Optima, Interstate, Champion.....I don't think any one would give you too much trouble.

[jac04]

Where would you recommend I go to find the best / biggest I can use?

I always do a lot of research before buying anything. The battery I bought was no different. Like I said, the NAPA 84 Group 27 is the way to go. Quality is great, and there are NAPAs everywhere just in case you have a warranty issue. Going with the largest battery size will give you added reserve capacity and cold cranking amps.

The other battery brand that gets excellent ratings is the Advance Auto Autocraft Gold battery. This is the battery that I use in my daily driver car.

[Tim Smith]

There was a battery write up in one of the latest Overland Journal's and they highly recommended the Interstate Platinum. That battery is actually an AGM battery made by Odessey but is much cheaper (with a shorter warranty) through the Interstate brand name.

I have an Odessey and can attest to their quality. By no means cheap, but they really do stand by their warranty. I believe the Interstate battery is warranted for 3 to 5 years but if you treat it well, you should be able to get 8 years out of it. At least my Odessey is warranted for that.

You can always go for a cheaper battery but if you compare the service life, they may not be cheaper in the long run.