starter issues

[Alk-3]

Hi Everyone. okay, so here is the problem. when the land rover is really cold and i try to start it with the key, it just doesn't work, like the ignition switch is bad. no click, nothing.. but when i use the push button starter it works every time, no problem.. thats easy enough, as i can just use the push button when the key wont work.. the problem is that once in a while when i turn the key, the started will engage, but will not shut off, i can take the key out all together and the starter will keep cranking until i disconnect the battery.. im worried because i can just picture the starter engaging all on its own and driving the truck out into the road, or worse! ( i park on a slope, and the transmission break is bad enough that i have to leave the truck in gear)
anyone know what might be the cause of this? bad starter solenoid? bad ignition switch?

[cousindave]

My series III has had the same problem, which rears it's ugly head at the most inconvenient times. I attempted to check with a multimeter but to no avail. (Of course, when attempting to check, the series would start perfectly) I replaced the starter solenoid only to have the same thing happen again. I then replaced the ignition switch. Still th same problem, although it did seem to start much better. Again,as usual with lucas electrics, the problem reared it's ugly head. This time also killing a battery and a set of battery cables. That last bit led me to the starter. I thought that maybe the starter was 30 years old and was finally taking a crap. So I take it off and to my surprise the PO had replaced it in 2009(according to build date inside starter). The starter was spotless and looked brand new internally. I did find that the stud on the starter that connects the starter to the solenoid is an insulated stud and the plastic insulation was torn and the stud was touching the starter body and thus creating a short. I fixed it by removing the top of the starter, removing the nut that holds the stud on. Then place a couple of rubber washers on the stud and put it back on. I did not reemove the insulation I just left it. Since then the series has really started well. For a few weeks. Then AGAIN the same problem reared its head, except this time long enough for me to get a tester on it. This time I found that the brown ten gauge wire that went from the fuse box to the ignition switch was shorting on one of the many wires behind the dash. I replaced the entire wire and made it half the length so I don't need to fold or roll the wire behind the dash. So far so good. It's now been a couple of weeks and so far so good. Anyhow good luck, I'm sure youu'll get it. Just remember the most important thing is HAVE PATIENCE. Several times I was ready to pour gasoline on the rig and throw a match under her to put her,and most importantly me, out of our misery. But, I stuck it out and the statisfaction of solving the problem is much better than the misery and suffering experienced dealing with "the prince".

[andrew]

I've been having a similar problem (see the ongoing post titled "WHIRRRRR, then silence. (http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10857)") Maybe you'll find some useful information in that discussion too. And, the solution listed here gives me another potential solution that I will try out, thanks.

[Donnie]

My series III has had the same problem, which rears it's ugly head at the most inconvenient times. I attempted to check with a multimeter but to no avail. (Of course, when attempting to check, the series would start perfectly) I replaced the starter solenoid only to have the same thing happen again. I then replaced the ignition switch. Still th same problem, although it did seem to start much better. Again,as usual with lucas electrics, the problem reared it's ugly head. This time also killing a battery and a set of battery cables. That last bit led me to the starter. I thought that maybe the starter was 30 years old and was finally taking a crap. So I take it off and to my surprise the PO had replaced it in 2009(according to build date inside starter). The starter was spotless and looked brand new internally. I did find that the stud on the starter that connects the starter to the solenoid is an insulated stud and the plastic insulation was torn and the stud was touching the starter body and thus creating a short. I fixed it by removing the top of the starter, removing the nut that holds the stud on. Then place a couple of rubber washers on the stud and put it back on. I did not reemove the insulation I just left it. Since then the series has really started well. For a few weeks. Then AGAIN the same problem reared its head, except this time long enough for me to get a tester on it. This time I found that the brown ten gauge wire that went from the fuse box to the ignition switch was shorting on one of the many wires behind the dash. I replaced the entire wire and made it half the length so I don't need to fold or roll the wire behind the dash. So far so good. It's now been a couple of weeks and so far so good. Anyhow good luck, I'm sure youu'll get it. Just remember the most important thing is HAVE PATIENCE. Several times I was ready to pour gasoline on the rig and throw a match under her to put her,and most importantly me, out of our misery. But, I stuck it out and the statisfaction of solving the problem is much better than the misery and suffering experienced dealing with "the prince".
Got any mice in your garage? if U C acorn or nut remains, look for a mouse nest behind the instrument cluster.

[cousindave]

As crazy as that sounds, mice have been the cause of previous electrical problems! Rt poison and several weeks of rewiring solved most of my issue. Actually, my issue began about the same time that I discovered a mouse nest..