OUCH

[siii8873]

Oh $#!+ pulled a bonehead move. Backed into my wifes car. I want to make some repairs. What is the best way to straighten out crinkled aluminum. Just happens tha about two weeks ago I took a beat tub to the dump. Could use the back galvy piece and back panel now.

[Terrys]

At least you didn't break the 4" amber.

[siii8873]

My thought exactly!! I was glad I didn't damage either the 4" amber or the red one hard to get those.

[bkreutz]

I had similar damage when I got mine. I drilled out the rivets, straightened the steel bits with a regular hammer and dolly but used a piece of wood and plastic hammer on the aluminum so I wouldn't stretch or work harden it. Then rivet back together. Much easier than trying to straighten all the pieces at the same time.

[SafeAirOne]

Well...Replacement bodysides and galv corners are still available. Used 88 tubs are plentiful too.

[siii8873]

Don't think I'll change the tub. This is my everyday driver and perfection is not a high priority with this truck. I would be interested in a decent straight galv corner if anyone has one.

[Les Parker]

Bob,

I think there's one in the pile in my garage attic. Along with the bare engine block, con-rods and other oddments......

[crankin]

Well...Replacement bodysides and galv corners are still available. Used 88 tubs are plentiful too.

The body sides are available...However, I think the galv corners that accommodate the 4" ambers are tricky to find. I know that I had a time finding one for mine.

[SafeAirOne]

The body sides are available...However, I think the galv corners that accommodate the 4" ambers are tricky to find. I know that I had a time finding one for mine.


Fair enough. I was under the (incorrect) impression that the galv corners were universal and that the lamp assemblies all fit the same size holes, but I suppose it's not the holes that are different, but rather the amount of metal around the holes.

[JackIIA]

This is such a common 'injury' on these trucks. Not sure why, but I've seen it more than a few times.

I'd still carefully heat it up before banging away to avoid cracking. Probably unnecessary, but just my own superstitious ways.

[Terrys]

You're still kinda right Mark. The outside profile of the early 2A, and S3 are the same. The hole for the lower lamp is in the same position, but the hole for the upper (brake/tail) is up a tad on the late 2A/S3 pieces. Also, the side rivet hole pattern is a little different( Which doesn't matter, because when you redrill the body for the 'other' style, whichever way you're going, the capping covers the old rivet holes in the body.
Some light grinding of the upper lamp hole (in galvy and tub)would be necessary to use the old style corner on a newer truck.

[mrdoiron]

You're still kinda right Mark. The outside profile of the early 2A, and S3 are the same. The hole for the lower lamp is in the same position, but the hole for the upper (brake/tail) is up a tad on the late 2A/S3 pieces. Also, the side rivet hole pattern is a little different( Which doesn't matter, because when you redrill the body for the 'other' style, whichever way you're going, the capping covers the old rivet holes in the body.
Some light grinding of the upper lamp hole (in galvy and tub)would be necessary to use the old style corner on a newer truck.

I am looking for a set of the early 2A rear cappings, plus 2 top tub rail caps if anyone can depart with them (for a handsome fee of course). Just PM me if anyone has extra's please.

thanks.

[SafeAirOne]

The hole for the lower lamp is in the same position, but the hole for the upper (brake/tail) is up a tad on the late 2A/S3 pieces.


Ahh...makes sense.

It looks as if one could "adjust" the position of the upper hole to accomodate the larger lower lens and the modification would be hidden by the upper lamp assemblly.

[Terrys]

Ahh...makes sense.

It looks as if one could "adjust" the position of the upper hole to accomodate the larger lower lens and the modification would be hidden by the upper lamp assemblly.
Exactly

[siii8873]

Finished my repairs last week. Came out OK. Pictures attached

[SafeAirOne]

That came out pretty good. You can hardly see the duct tape! ;)

Seriously though--what did you end up doing? Replace the tub side + capping?

[siii8873]

I started by removing the capping and straightening it the best I could.
I then made a puller from an beam (old garage door opener T-Beam) and a piece of 1/4" x 1" plate/ I bridged the beam from the frame up to the capping. I placed the piece of plate inside the back corner and placed a long 5/16" bolt between the two in one of the rivet holes widened out to the bolt size. I then worked on pulling out the back corner. I repositioned the bolt a few times in different rivet holes. This with some pounding out of some of the areas this didn't correct and a little bondo to level things out a little. I did take the picture from an angle that makes it look a little better than it is. Acceptable for this truck it's not a garage queen but a every day driver year round.

[SafeAirOne]

I did take the picture from an angle that makes it look a little better than it is.


Looks like you got that angle spot-on!

[stomper]

Fresh Paint to boot! looks very respectable! better than I could have done, that is for sure. :thumb-up: