CCA - battery sizes - freezing cold starting conditions!

[knac1234]

Hello all,

Since owning my SIII, in very cold weather (maybe 5 degrees F and colder) with the truck sitting outside all night, I have had to hook up my battery charger to start the car (still only 1 or 2 turns of the key :D)

So this morning, it was 1 degree F outside, and I couldn't be bothered to pull out the charger, extension cord, etc.. to start her. Drove the Disco instead!

The battery currently in it is about 3/4 the size of the battery tray. I guess my question is, should I invest in the biggest battery I can fit in it with the highest CCA......will it get me started in these zero/sub zero temps?

Anyone in cold climates like mine, please share any recommendations!

Oh, on a similar note, I currently am running 10-40....the PO did an oil change right before I got it. He ran 10-40 in winter and the factory spec 20-50 in summer. Any reason I should not go back to the 20-50 year round?

Thanks,
Julian

[albersj51]

Most here recommend the largest battery that will fit, which I believe is a group 27.

As far as oil, I'd sick with it. 20/50 is thick enough, add in the cold temps and it may be harder to start and, because it takes a little longer for it to flow well, it may increase cold start wear in winter. 10/40 is good for winter, 20/50 for summer

[gudjeon]

I went to Walmart and bought the one specified for 1990 Chev Scottsdale 350. I also made a hold down to keep it in place in the tray. It has been running now for 5 years and works great. It has sat for a month in and out of -20c and fires right up after sitting all that time. That being said, I could probably buy another one and it could last a week.

I use to run a dynamo charging system years ago an a different LR. When it got uber cold, the battery did not like to take a charge and it had a hard time keeping the battery going. I put in a Delco 10si and no more issues.

I used to be a lighter in the winter and heavier in the summer oil guy. I found a good 0w50 and run it all year. I am not a big advocate of synthetics, but this stuff works and flows great when cold and stands up to heat.

[jac04]

The old RN catalog that had lubricant capacities & specs listed 10W-40 for the 2.25 engine oil. When I put my Turner long block in, Turner told me to use 10W-40. Not sure 20W-50 is really required for summer use in an engine in good condition.

[siii8873]

You shouldn't have trouble starting the truck in cold weather with a good battery. I have started my SIII's in below zero weather before. The truck is not outside but in an unheated barn. The largest battery is not always the one with the highest CCA. I just bought an interstate battery. The one that matched the tray / height size did not have as many CCA as one that was slightly shorter. I would go with the highest CCA rating that fits the space.

[bpj911]

Group 34 generally has a significantly higher CCA than a Group 27. Not to mention, side and top terminals for all the extra stuff you might like.

[Terrys]

It sounds like your present battery is a group 24, but most people put a group 27 in place of it. A group 24 was standard, and one in good shape will start the truck at most temps. When they won't do it anymore, it's because the battery acid is saturated and loosing charge. As the temp drops, the specific gravity also goes down.The plates are probably swiss cheese by this time, and what used to be lead is now an oxide, slowly filling up from the bottom of the case. I actually remember an uncle in Scotland who would turn his battery upside down and spray the inside with a graden hose every year. I distinctly recall the big red Exide letters and tar top. He said it was about 10 years old
On another note, you can specify which corner you want the + and - terminals (+ usually at the back inside corner.) If I recall, it's called a group 27H, or some other such letter, as opposed to just 27.

[bpj911]

In my 2.25 diesel I run 5W40 rotella and in the summer I run the Delo 400 15W40. Will drive it anytime there isn't salt on the roads. Will start pretty easily at zero with the 0W40 and the group 34 battery.

[Tsmith]

I have a gas 2.25 and installed an electric water heater from our hosts. It makes the warm up period much shorter. It does seem to start easier and I imagine that I'm being kinder to the engine. It installs in the lower hose. I can't find it on the website, but I believe it came from RN.

[jimrr]

9 quarts of oil is more than the average ''tuff truck'', make sure you push the clutch in when you crank the engine and put xfer case in nuetral if it's that cold. When it's really cold i put xfer case in nuetral and 4th gear to stirr the 90 wt. oil.

[knac1234]

Thanks for all the tips. Started fine this morning.....cold but nowhere as near as cold as yesterday!

When the battery starts to get a little worse, I will get one with the highest CCA and the largest size that will fit!

Oil-wise, sounds like some do a summer and winter grade oil.....was I wrong in the 20-50 original spec (guess I could open the Haynes book when I get home!).

Jimrr-interesting tip on the transfer box in neutral and perhaps the main in 4th.....will try that.....what is behind the 4th gear trick?

Cheers,
Julian

[Andrew IIA]

Jimrr-interesting tip on the transfer box in neutral and perhaps the main in 4th.....will try that.....what is behind the 4th gear trick?


I've used this method to good effect; seems to reduce the winter warmup time by almost 50% :thumb-up:

[siii8873]

I practice the transfer box in neutral and gearbox engaged while engine is warming up also. You can tell the difference, shifts easier when you start out.

[Cutter]

I just replaced my battery, and despite the wish to go with a group 27 availability and need required I went with a group 24. I happened to be getting a lot of weird electrical issues along with the same starting issues as you. My older optima battery was toast, putting out maybe 10-11 volts fully charged.