Twin Series conundrum...

[Alaskan Rover]

Got two separate problems:

1) Muffler back-pressure?
Just got back from the muffler shop today, whereupon they had replaced my noisy rusted muffler and tail pipe with a new muffler on my 1970 Series IIA 88". They really had no hope of looking up what model muffler is supposed to go on this vehicle, because as most of you have found, it doesn't show up in most parts databases. They just tried matching it as best as possible with the muffler that was on it...by sight, so to speak.

This rover has been my daily driver for 24 years and thus I know its every nuance as if it were my own kin...and since driving back from the muffler shop it just doesn't seem right. Perhaps a back-pressure issue of either too much or not enough? Is there any way tell if back-pressure is an issue?? The vehicle seems quite sluggish at the shift points now, whereas it was okay just before the muffler install. They installed a canister-type muffler of the approximate size and round shape. Can a slight change in back-pressure cause that much sluggishness?

2) Wipers and/or wiper motor:
Has anybody had similar problem of the wiper basically being very erractic...slapping BOTH sides of the bottom windowshield sill with every turn and doing so VERY forcefully, and then maybe the next minute behaving very well with a graceful, small arc and then back to a quick over-radiused slapping??? The wiper itself is attached very firmly to the stub-mount, so that is not the problem.

When I take the wiper-motor access panel off, I notice that what I can see of the main shaft drive on the motor turns with regularity and no erraticness that I can derive. The motor itself seems simple and obviously works. Is there ANY way to adjust the damn thing? The wiper slaps both sides of the sill so hard that I worry about knocking the wiper right off the windshield. It is definietely over-arcing, and would probably do a full 360 if it could. Anybody else have similar problems with their late series IIA or series III wiper system (the single wiper motor, not the earlier dual-motor setup)??

[gudjeon]

I can't speak for the wiper issue, but, when I had a stock muffler fall off my '68, 88" 2.25. it ran gutless. It also sounded like an old water bomber, it was so loud.

I have put on old systems made by Walker and currently Bosal. Probably not in the books for North American dealers.

[artpeck]

No clue on the muffler issue. On the wiper, is the aggressive behavior tied to engine speed?

[Terrys]

The wiper issue is common, and not much you can do but replace the worn out wheel boxes and cable. In the off position, you probably can move the wiper several inches before you feel resistance, right? It isn't usually the cable but the actual wheel (looks like a gear) on the inside of the wheel box that the cables operates on.
One thing I have done to extend their life, is to carefully mark the spindle with a line that you can align with a stationary mark, then undo the two nuts on the back of the wheel box, remove the back plate, and carefully pull the cable away from the wheel, then rotate the spindle 180 degrees and put the cable back in. Now your running on teeth which haven't worn out. Cable spiral will still be worn, but the tighter teeth/cable mesh will tighten up the arc significantly.

[TedW]

I had/have the self-same wiper problem with my 1970: after a while the wipers would slap the bottom of the windshield frame and then would go past the side edges of the glass - drove me nuts, so I replaced the wheel boxes AND the cable.

Now it's a little better, but still does it, especially after the wipers have been running a while.

I'm tempted to go in to the gear and drill another hole and reposition the cable attachment so the cable travel is reduced.

Everything is tight (or seems to be). I just don't get it, although the solution should be relatively simple.

[east high]

I had/have the self-same wiper problem with my 1970: after a while the wipers would slap the bottom of the windshield frame and then would go past the side edges of the glass - drove me nuts, so I replaced the wheel boxes AND the cable.

Do you have the individual wipers, or the connected type? I've noticed this behavior with my individual wipers and it's just the wiper arm loose and rotating on the motor spindle.

[TedW]

Do you have the individual wipers, or the connected type? I've noticed this behavior with my individual wipers and it's just the wiper arm loose and rotating on the motor spindle.

The later, connected type.

[Jeff Aronson]

In theory, yes, excess back pressure will reduce engine power. Of course, the easiest way to determine this would be to remove the muffler and then run the very noisy Rover through its gears. Another option would be to have the muffler shop install a temporary straight pipe replacing the muffler and tailpipe.

I run a standard Rover exhaust system and the pipe diameters are not really that large. The muffler, though, is far more oval than round, which makes me wonder how well they lined up their non-stock replacement. Have you compared the dimensions of a stock muffler against those of the one installed on your car?

Jeff

[Alaskan Rover]

Thanks, Jeff. I enjoyed your last article in the January Rover News rag...especially the part about Discoveries and Rangies and whatnot...your thoughts are pretty well in line with my own regarding that.


The muffler they installed is pretty much the same dimensions as the original (round canister type). Don't know the set-up of the inner baffles and such inside the muffler.

I'm going to take it back and have them do a back-pressure test on it...but having no green shop manual, I don't know what factory spec back-pressure should run.

Before I do take it back, though, I'm going to give the carb a quick rebuild and check the tappet adjustment to rule out those causes of sluggishness. I've already timed the engine to specs, so that's not the cause.