Engine/T-Case Questions

[utahseries]

Alright, so my dads 69 88 is refusing to run. We have replaced the fuel pump, the in-line filter, the distributor cap, the wires, and everything else that is required to run. It has spark and fuel, and it almost wants to run every 10-15 cranks, but it'll just puff once or twice and thats it.. Any ideas? And in another topic, it it theoretically possible for the low range lever to be able to shift too far and jam the transfercase? I ask because my series 1 won't roll if I pull the lever all the way back into low range, and it'll kill the engine before it rolls an inch. To add to it I have to jack the front wheels off the ground to get it back into high range. But the car runs fine in high range and in high range 4wd. Any thoughts would help.
Thanks

[SafeAirOne]

Well...If you are certain that you're getting good spark at the right time and the proper amount of fuel mixed with the correct amount of air fed to the cylinders, then the next areas I'd check would be compression and valve timing.

As you know, things are getting bound up in 4 low on the other rover. Have you ever successfully got it in 4 low by moving the lever not-quite-all-the-way back OR back even further than you are going now?

I've heard of those metal dust caps that stick out of the front of the transfer case getting dented and interfering with the selector shafts inside, not allowing them to travel their full stroke.
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/images/Product/medium/RNB600.JPG

[I Leak Oil]

Make sure the motor is at TDC on the compression stroke and static time it. Try it again.

[utahseries]

Alright, haven't tried the static timing yet, so no more updates on that just yet. As for the series 1, It used to go into low range just fine, but as we were driving down a super slick driveway a couple of weeks ago it completely locked up in low range. We had to jack the wheels off the ground to be able to shift it back into hi range and get it back home.