The definitive guide to painting a Series Land Rover

[rejeep]

Disclaimer: I have searched.. both on the board and online, but I can seem to gather enough conclusive info..
For the sake of argument..
Here is my rover…

http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/th_IMG00032-20110131-1209.jpg (http://s534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/?action=view&current=IMG00032-20110131-1209.jpg)
http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/th_IMG00031-20110131-1209.jpg (http://s534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/?action=view&current=IMG00031-20110131-1209.jpg)
http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/th_IMG00028-20110130-1228.jpg (http://s534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/?action=view&current=IMG00028-20110130-1228.jpg)


I have replaced the bonnet, some doors and sill panels in preparation for a homogeneous color vehicle.
I am not looking for a historically correct masterpiece, my body capping and windscreen have been painted in the past and I’m not looking to fully disassemble, galvanize and re install.. I will be following suit and just re painting the galvy trim pieces.

Here are my questions..
I have read several things about prepping the metal.. what is the correct action..? the birmabrite has an anti corrosive coating on it that’s is un available anymore.. I would rather not take anything down to bare metal to protect this coating for what it’s worth..
The truck has been painted prior, before it left England. I do need some surface prep work where the paint is not perfectly adhered.. I am also trying to save some coin on the paint labor.. I don’t mind sanding or scuffing.. I just want to know what I need to do.

I have read several things about primers.. Epoxy or etch… I have used Epoxy before in some Jeep restorations, but I had the body down to bare metal, does that matter? What have other people done, or better yet, what is correct?

I own an Automotive Parts distribution company.. so I am literally taking paint off the shelf.. cost is not a factor in the material aspect of it all.. I am more concerned with getting it right the first time..

I am very open to suggestions, criticism and general opinions..

[I Leak Oil]

If the original paint isn't peeling then don't remove it. Scuff it and shoot a sealer over it before top coating. For bare metal I've always used etch primer on aluminum. Never tried epoxy over aluminum but I've heard it works fine also. I've used both etch and epoxy on steel with good results. It's hard to beat epoxy these days....

[lrdukdog]

I just sanded the factory finish with 300 grit and where it went to bare metal used Zinc Chromeate primer. Used Rustolem paint and did it with a BRUSH :eek: http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk/index.html.

Jim Wolf

[TedW]

For a new door and rear quarter panel I used marine store zinc chromate, or Eastwood self-etching primer. Then sprayed with DuPont Imron in rattle cans from Tower paint. Both have held up beautifully.

[rejeep]

Leak Oil,
what type of "sealer"

I know I have at least 2 different finishes to deal with..
the new doors and the old paint..

so the thought is to spray or coat the new Alum. with Zinc Chromate.
Scuff entire vehicle with 300 grit paper
spray entire vehicle with primer (etch or epoxy)
color coat

[rejeep]

I just sanded the factory finish with 300 grit and where it went to bare metal used Zinc Chromeate primer. Used Rustolem paint and did it with a BRUSH :eek: http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk/index.html.

Jim Wolf


do you have pictures of your rover?
who knows.. maybe brush it the way to go:thumb-up:

[rejeep]

Prime Coat Yellow Zinc Chromate Sandable Primer Filler Can - 11 oz.

http://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP306-Yellow-Chromate-Sandable/dp/B000CPCRI6

[siii8873]

I suggest testing a few small areas of existing paint(s). I did this with a rover I had with a few different paints. One of the paints bubbled when primed. The original paint was fine.

[I Leak Oil]

Typically you don't want to or need to use a primer over paint. Primer bonds to the substrait so you can lay the paint over it. Self etch primer usually doesn't like to bond to paint, bare metal only. That's where the sealer comes in. It's an in between material that adheres to primer or existing paint. It acts as a filler and a barrier between product types so you don't get the incompatability and bubbling issues. Sealer is generally inexpensive and if you're not sure what type of reaction you'll get between the old paint and new paint it's well worth it.

[redmondrover]

A friend of mine wrote a fairly detailed 4 part article on painting Land Rovers. It can be found under the "Technical Articles" tab on the Roverlanders of British Columbia site:

http://www.roverlanders.bc.ca/