Windows

[PH4]

Has anyone replaced all the window tracks on a IIA? I just received my imported Rover whose window tracks were in "good condition" and they are far from so. The front windows slide but you cannot even move the middle and rear windows. Is this a pop in pop out procedure or does this require alot of swearing on my part? Any advice or experience is most appreciated. Also, any advice on preventitive maintenance on this issue?

[jac04]

I have replaced a few sets. In theory, it is an easy job. In reality, you will be cussing a little. Finding & removing the screws holding the channels in place can be a real PITA. I had to grind the heads off some screws and then remove them with vice-grips after the channels were removed. Make sure to get a full set of replacement screws. Have fun.
Here is a link to a procedure:
http://www.lrfaq.org/Series/FAQ.S.window_channels.html

[bamarover]

I replaced all of the tracks on our 1971 IIA refurbish. They had been replaced previously. Here's is what I did:
1.Get a good quality medium head phillips. Use the screws that come with the new tracks to size. The screwdriver needs to be the correct size.
2.Clean out the tracks and vacuum if necessary.
3.Take the phillips screwdriver and starting at one end, slide it along the bottom ot the track with some force. You will "feel" the screw head every 6 inches, or so.
4.Work the phillips head in to place and with a lot of pressure, try to back it out. Only 4 would not come out this way. For those, I tore the old track apart (little resistance) and got them out with pliers.
If you do the door windows, you will need some ribbon sealer (available at any auto glass place) for the fixed window.
Take your time and you will be pleased with this project. Nothing like clean, new, sliding windows.
I did it over 4 or 5 evenings, walking away when the irritation started!
Good luck!
Greg

[jp-]

Expect much cussing.

I had to bend the rusted channels enough to get the glass out. Once the glass was safely out, I ground off the heads of the screws that wouldn't come out, and used vice grip needlenose pliers to twist and tear out the old stuff. I have done two Rovers and finally decided that I never wanted to do this job again.

So...

I custom made new channels. I used 1/4" wide aluminum channel available at Home Depot/Lowe's. I made Gore-Tex sleeves to fit over the channel. It goes on like a sock. Then I used a piece of glass to seat the Gore-Tex in the channel. (If you make the sock right, you'll get a good fit.) I then used stainless screws through the Gore-Tex and aluminum (in the holes that I predrilled) to secure the channel. No rusting, rotting, leaking, ever.

[PH4]

Thank you for all the advice. JP's solution sounds good but is there an aftermarket product that is a better replacement than the original. I know you can purchase Defender windows for the front doors but what about the middle and side doors?

[LH Drive]

I custom made new channels. I used 1/4" wide aluminum channel available at Home Depot/Lowe's. I made Gore-Tex sleeves to fit over the channel. It goes on like a sock. Then I used a piece of glass to seat the Gore-Tex in the channel. (If you make the sock right, you'll get a good fit.) I then used stainless screws through the Gore-Tex and aluminum (in the holes that I predrilled) to secure the channel. No rusting, rotting, leaking, ever.[/quote]

This sounds like the way to go. JP, do you have any pictures of your window channels installed? Where did you find the Gore-Tex material? My Series 3 needs new channels and looks like I'm going to make a trip to Home Depot.

[jp-]

LH,

I have a huge sheet of blue Gore-Tex that my dad got years ago. I don't have any photo's right now. I'll try to get some. After all the tracks were installed, I used silicone to fill in the gaps.

Several things to note: This takes time and if not done right, it will look it.

1. The aluminum channel must be pre-marked, drilled, and countersunk. The aluminum channels must be test fitted prior to fitting the sock over them.

2. If you do not countersink the aluminum channel, the screws will bump the glass as it tries to slide.

3. The Gore-Tex must be cut in strips (about 1 & 1/2" wide if remember correctly) the same length of the aluminum track. The side of the strip are then sewn together to form the "sock" or tube. Slide it over the channel, and use a piece of glass to seat the sock. If you made it too short, it will not fully seat, too long and it will be too loose. Don't worry about the open end of the fabric showing, this side will not be seen.

[TedW]

...at a marine supply store. They have the requisite fuzzy lining but with a delrin or teflon-type running surface. They are just a smidge wider than the originals but work fine. The windows are smoooooooooooooth and I should never need to replace them. In fact, with Rocky Mtn. extruded door tops they should easily outlast me, even up here in the salt belt.

[bamarover]

One other tip: The aluminum spacers that are the same thickness as the glass found in the door windows and top side windows should be removed with care. They cannot be purchased except as a used item. Don't ask me how I know this!:D Anyway, breaking the aluminum to the original shape is impossible for the shops around here, so we made a 2-piece set that worked fine. Just more time and a little more expense. Work hard to save the originals!

Greg

[jp-]

One other tip: The aluminum spacers that are the same thickness as the glass found in the door windows and top side windows should be removed with care. They cannot be purchased except as a used item. Don't ask me how I know this!:D Anyway, breaking the aluminum to the original shape is impossible for the shops around here, so we made a 2-piece set that worked fine. Just more time and a little more expense. Work hard to save the originals!

Greg

Great point Greg!

[jp-]

...at a marine supply store. They have the requisite fuzzy lining but with a delrin or teflon-type running surface. They are just a smidge wider than the originals but work fine. The windows are smoooooooooooooth and I should never need to replace them. In fact, with Rocky Mtn. extruded door tops they should easily outlast me, even up here in the salt belt.

I guess I wasn't aware that stainless steel versions existed. This seems like a great idea.