Webber 34inch packing up

[stomper]

So yesterday, I took the Rover on some errands, and once it got up to operating temperature the truck will idle fine, but as soon as you press the throttle, this engine bogs down, and will not rev. No power made getting home fun.

Looking at the carb, it appears the choke butterfly advances too quickly. If I hold it back with my finger, it runs fine. There is a little play in the bushing, and the spring is attached to the butterfly, but something is not correct. It this something others have experienced, and is it fixable, or is there a new carburator or rebuild in my future. My chances to getting to the Winter Romp now are looking slim:(

[stomper]

I see RN sells the choke spring separately. It says: A "small" item, but, if broken or stretched will cause "big" issue.

It this the issue they are referring to?

[Terrys]

I have found that the accelerator nozzle on the Weber plugs up very easily, and often. Remove the top of the carb, and with a pair of needle nose pliers, pull the nozzle straight up. Use a acetelene torch tip cleaning wire set, and ream the nozzle out with the appropriate size cleaning wire. Put a little vasolene on the end of the nozzle to aid in going back into the 'O' ring.

[czenkov]

Hmm. Took my Series out today. Ran fine for most of the day but started bucking, no power, then what sounds like a backfire through carb, then through exhaust. Here is me wondering if I do not have something similar going on. My Webber was once installed "new" when I got it. Likes to load up on inclines and die as well. Floats or this spring you speak of? I have some work to do! Let me know if you figure out your problem - might assist me in mine.

[jac04]

Looking at the carb, it appears the choke butterfly advances too quickly. If I hold it back with my finger, it runs fine.
Are you saying that without the choke on, the choke butterfly is partially closed? If so, it sounds like a problem with the choke cable adjustment.

[stomper]

I'll give the accelerator nozzel cleaning a try tomorrow after work.

Jac, the brass lever that operates the choke butterfly. When you press down on the throttle linkage, the choke lever advances forward, and the engine bogs down. The spring is supposed to put tension on the butterfly lever to pull it back.

If I hold the little brass butterfly lever, and don't let it advance when I press the throttle linkage, it seems to run fine.

I didn't realize you could adjust the choke lever assembly, but perhaps when I replaced the choke cable, something went amiss. That was quite a while ago that I installed it, and it was running fine.

[xsbowes]

prior post that may help:
http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5871

[jac04]

Jac, the brass lever that operates the choke butterfly. When you press down on the throttle linkage, the choke lever advances forward, and the engine bogs down. The spring is supposed to put tension on the butterfly lever to pull it back.

There are 2 springs associated with the choke - items 41 & 54. I thought you were talking about 54, but it looks like you are talking about 41. If the choke starts to close (if lever #37 moves) when you open the throttle then something is very wrong. Maybe the #41 spring is broken or the #37 is binding. The choke lever #37 is supposed to 'float' on the main throttle shaft. Its only purpose is to bump up the idle speed (by opening the main throttle plate #18) when the choke is fully on. Other than that, it should stay put.

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j126/jac04/WeberICHExplodedViewfromPierce.gif

[stomper]

Jac, your comments gave me a moment of clarity last night, and I ran out to the garage at 11:00 to discover the choke cable securing screw had loosened up, and the carb was running with the choke on the whole time!

It seems to be running better now, but I can't take it for a spin yet, because I have lost my clutch pressure. I have a slow leak in the brake system at the 3 way union which I plan on fixing this spring. I let the hydrolic fluid get too low, and introduced air into the clutch line. Pumping the clutch builds the pressure, and it will work, but then I lost the pressure in a few seconds.

Anyone know if you can bleed the cluch slave without pulling the floor boards? I know the green bible says to pull them, but I really don't want to do that before the weekend romp. I do have a vacuum bleeder.

[czenkov]

Mine is a SII and and being "highly optioned":D (LOL)I use the access hole in the tunnel cover on the passenger side. Not sure all Rovers have this though.

[stomper]

I'll have to check and see if I have an access hole, mine has a thick rubber tunnel and floor mat in the way, and a fairey overdrive lever. No one has tried from the underside?

[Terrys]

I've always done it ffrom below

[stomper]

Terry, you are quickly becoming my new best friend! I'll try it tonight if the weather isn't too cold in the garage!:thumb-up:

[Terrys]

Cool. I was hoping that when I'm gone I'll be remembered as not just a bad example.

[jac04]

Jac, your comments gave me a moment of clarity last night, and I ran out to the garage at 11:00 to discover the choke cable securing screw had loosened up, and the carb was running with the choke on the whole time!

Glad it was something simple!