alternator kit installation questions (update with pics)

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  • zebrarover
    Low Range
    • Oct 2006
    • 30

    alternator kit installation questions (update with pics)

    I got an Alternator Bracket Kit from Robert Davis 5+ years ago that I'm finally going to install but I have a few questions before I start. Has anyone installed one of these and if so are there any tricks other than what is in his instructions?

    The instructions say to remove the starter dog and the crank pulley so the bracket bolts can be removed/installed. As I've never done this before I was wondering if I need to drain the block first before I remove the pulley?

    Also, I was wondering if I need to drain the coolant and remove the radiator before I start or can it be put on with the everything else in place (radiator, fan shroud, wings,...)?

    Thanks for the help
    Seth
    Last edited by zebrarover; 02-19-2011, 07:30 PM. Reason: update with pics at bottom of post
    1966 Series IIA 88 "zebra"
    1967 Series IIA 109
  • TeriAnn
    Overdrive
    • Nov 2006
    • 1087

    #2
    Originally posted by zebrarover
    I got an Alternator Bracket Kit from Robert Davis 5+ years ago that I'm finally going to install but I have a few questions before I start. Has anyone installed one of these and if so are there any tricks other than what is in his instructions?

    The instructions say to remove the starter dog and the crank pulley so the bracket bolts can be removed/installed.
    Say what?????

    I've never seen Robert's alternator kit before and I have a lot of respect for his work but Removing the crank pulley is not an easy quickly job one normally does to a completely assembled truck.

    On the other hand Ike's alternator brackets are quick & easy to install and everyone I know who uses them seem happy with them

    -

    Teriann Wakeman_________
    Flagstaff, AZ.




    1960 Land Rover Dormobile, owned since 1978

    My Land Rover web site

    Comment

    • Terrys
      Overdrive
      • May 2007
      • 1382

      #3
      No, you don't need to drain anything to remove the crank pulley. Nor do you need to remove the wings, radiator, etc.
      I'm curious why you need to remove the crank pulley. Is it not possible to remove the old generator bracket with it in place? I can't remember, and have no generator trucks at hand at the moment. (Though that can change like the weather)

      Comment

      • Lord Icon
        1st Gear
        • Jul 2008
        • 176

        #4
        i concur with the ike goss set up. i replaced mine and left the old brackrts there...by the way, the belt size is 15500....don't forget, i you have a winch and you upgrade the alt, when you draw the full power from your alt, it all has to go through that little wire... I am writing this from the winter romp after a full day of winching.
        oh and given a choice, go for the biggest alt output you can get.
        kris
        Whence came you my brother ? From the East....

        Comment

        • lrdukdog
          3rd Gear
          • Nov 2006
          • 321

          #5
          WHAT!!!!

          I've know Robert since college, he is a serous guy with lots of good knowledge of Rovers, and I have serous ???? about those instructions. Can you san them and post them up? I really, really can't see where you would have to remove those to install the alternator..just can't see it.
          Jim Wolf

          Comment

          • gudjeon
            5th Gear
            • Oct 2006
            • 613

            #6
            There should be no need to have to do all that to replace a gen for an alt. If it were, I would seriously reconsider that bit of kit. I put an alternator in the original position using the existing gen mounts. I only had to fabricate a through bolt, spacer, and top bracket. The large ear on the alternator was ground to make the belt line up. I have not drowned it yet being down here.

            Comment

            • zebrarover
              Low Range
              • Oct 2006
              • 30

              #7
              instructions / pics

              I got the Davis Alt Conv Kit before Ike made his. Robert's kit is well made one, I was just trying to see if anyone had any pointers before I put it on.

              The Instructions are:
              1. Remove the old generator or alternator and all mounting brackets.
              2. Remove the crank pulley nut and crank pulley.
              3. Install the rear bracket (R)– bolts finger tight
              4. Install the front bracket (F) with the hex spacers – bolts finger tight
              5. Install the 3/8” bolt through bracket (F) into bracket (R)–finger tight
              6. Tighten the bolts fastening the (F) and (R)–brackets and insure that the 3/8” bolt turns free without binding.
              7. Install the crank pulley and nut.
              8. Remove the 3/8” bolt and install the alternator – insure that the two spade connectors are on the top – do not fully tighten.
              9. Install the fan belt.
              10. Install the adjustment arm.
              11. Adjust the fan belt and tighten the alternator bolts.
              Pics:


              1966 Series IIA 88 "zebra"
              1967 Series IIA 109

              Comment

              • Terrys
                Overdrive
                • May 2007
                • 1382

                #8
                Could you take one more picture looking horizontally from the side?

                Comment

                • zebrarover
                  Low Range
                  • Oct 2006
                  • 30

                  #9
                  more pics

                  all of these pics are ones that Robert sent me when I bought the kit. He has always been very helpful. I've just been wondering if anyone has put one of these kits on without removing the crank pulley.
                  Thanks for the help
                  Seth



                  1966 Series IIA 88 "zebra"
                  1967 Series IIA 109

                  Comment

                  • Terrys
                    Overdrive
                    • May 2007
                    • 1382

                    #10
                    The lowest of the three bolts on the main mount looks like it i slightly behind the pulley, and that is a long bolt, so I guess that's the obvious reason. I'm sure it's just the angle, but the picture looking down on the tensioner arm looks like it's bent.
                    I've never bought one of Ike's mounts, but there was one on a 109 I bought. I felt it could have been a few inches lower, simply to give the fan pulley more belt contact. I also thought the angle of the load on the tensioner arm wasn't ideal, as the engine end of the arm was more vertical, than facing the alternator. Whatever, my concerns were unwarrented, as I never had any problems with belt tension, or fan slip

                    Comment

                    • kevkon
                      3rd Gear
                      • Aug 2009
                      • 364

                      #11
                      I think that kit is designed to encourage a complete engine conversion
                      94 D-90 tdi
                      72 Series III

                      Comment

                      • zebrarover
                        Low Range
                        • Oct 2006
                        • 30

                        #12
                        Talked with Robert this morning. He was very helpful. He said that the crank pulley definitely has to come off to put the bracket on. I might let the mechanic tackle this one. We'll see ...
                        1966 Series IIA 88 "zebra"
                        1967 Series IIA 109

                        Comment

                        • TeriAnn
                          Overdrive
                          • Nov 2006
                          • 1087

                          #13
                          Originally posted by zebrarover
                          Talked with Robert this morning. He was very helpful. He said that the crank pulley definitely has to come off to put the bracket on. I might let the mechanic tackle this one. We'll see ...
                          As I recall a socket & breaker bar will only turn the engine and not loosen the pulley bolt. I believe you need to pull the grille & radiator then use an impact wrench on it. Good time to flush the cooling system.
                          -

                          Teriann Wakeman_________
                          Flagstaff, AZ.




                          1960 Land Rover Dormobile, owned since 1978

                          My Land Rover web site

                          Comment

                          • Terrys
                            Overdrive
                            • May 2007
                            • 1382

                            #14
                            Put a socket on the dog, rest your breaker bar on the top of the left frame rail, pull the coil wire and bump the starter. Works like a charm.

                            Comment

                            • JackIIA
                              5th Gear
                              • Dec 2008
                              • 498

                              #15
                              Originally posted by Terrys
                              Put a socket on the dog, rest your breaker bar on the top of the left frame rail, pull the coil wire and bump the starter. Works like a charm.

                              that's brilliant. must be the maple syrup.
                              1970 88 IIA

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