What motor oil do you use for a 1970 IIA?

[IIA]

The Haynes book says SAE 10W/40 to 20W/50 and API SE or SF. I've been using Accel 10W/40 SF from Walmart which says "for model years 1988 and earlier" BUT after recently reading-up on oil, I've learned that SF is considered obsolete and the fact that the bottle doesn't have an API Certified seal means I should be wary.

What do people recommend? What's RN say? - Thanks

-Andy

Oh, and sorry if this is a duplicate post. It seems like a simple question but the search engine for the forum wouldn't search the word "oil" - at least not for me

[TedW]

IMHO you can't possibly ask too many questions about 1970 IIA's.

Where do you live? I'm in Maine and use Castrol 5w40 Syntec year round. I have a brandy new engine, so I'm fussy. Also, I appreciate the easy cold starts.

Otherwise, I'd follow the manual and tailor the choice to my environment.

[IIA]

I'm in the DC area. The weather ranges from the 20s to the 90s. Sometimes, it seems, in the same day. It's been starting pretty easily regardless of the weather, as long as I give it enough choke. The engine is definitely not new.

[bpj911]

Most anything will work of course but you are certainly using the bottom of the barrel with that Accel oil. Just get some 10W30 whatever. havoline, pennzoil, whatever will be fine. I use 15W40 Delo 400

[gudjeon]

The lowest API rating you can buy off the shelf is miles beyond what this motor had originally, so any decent stuff will do. I have run the Wal-Mart brand of 15w40 with good luck and a 10w40 for winter. I have settled on a 0w50 which is an excellent in uber cold weather with no plug in. As for those who claim new oils are no good because of the lack of Zinc anti-wear additive, then check out how the cam followers wear on any old 2 litre. I get temps from -30 to +30c and the 0w50 or 5w40 works all around. I am not a big fan of full synthetics, but this works for me changing it once a year. :thumb-up:

[jac04]

IMO, a good quality 10W-40 is usually an excellent choice for all-around use. As TedW stated, you can adjust your oil selection based on environment (and if you want to spend the time researching viscosities, pour points, viscosity index, etc.). Turner recommended 10W-40 Castrol GTX for my new long block.

The whole zinc/zddp additive thing is usually a concern only for flat-tappet engines.

[siii8873]

IMO , IMHO ? I'm not up on this lingo. What do they mean?

[TedW]

IMO , IMHO ? I'm not up on this lingo. What do they mean?
IMO: In my opinion
IMHO: In my humble opinion

Using them is a way to present an opinion with a touch of humility.

[LaneRover]

IMO: In my opinion
IMHO: In my humble opinion

Using them is way to present an opinion with a touch of humility.

and without wasting time on your humility :D

[yorker]

this is getting a little old now but still has some good basic info:
http://micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

I use Shell Rotella, either 15w40 or t6 depending what I happen to be using it in. It is a good oil, pretty cheap, and is available everywhere in handy 1 gallon jugs.

[luckyjoe]

A lot of good info here. Being that the 2.25 is a rather dated design, it has been my experience that a good 25W50 is closest to what would have been available 40-50 years ago. I've run it year-round for the past 10 years. I have a nice tight 2.25p, but wouldn't run anything 5Wxx or 10Wxx in it.

This year was the coldest Winter we've seen in a while, and although 25W50 is considered thick, I had no trouble hand turning the engine the few cold mornings I tried it - granted, we don't see much below -5F.

I have been eyeing the Rotella 15w40 though, and may try it next change.

Tom P.

[TedW]

A lot of good info here. Being that the 2.25 is a rather dated design, it has been my experience that a good 25W50 is closest to what would have been available 40-50 years ago. I've run it year-round for the past 10 years. I have a nice tight 2.25p, but wouldn't run anything 5Wxx or 10Wxx in it.

This is always an interesting discussion, and reasonable people can disagree on what's best for our sleds.

That said, Jac04 tells us that Turner recommends 10W40 for his new long block.
I'd say that their opinion carries some weight. After all, in addition to really understanding these engines it seems to me that they have a strong economic interest in having them last.

[jac04]

I have a nice tight 2.25p, but wouldn't run anything 5Wxx or 10Wxx in it.
Any particular reason? There are certainly many 5Wxx or 10Wxx oils that provide excellent low temperature pumpability while maintaining more than adequate high temperature viscosity. When an engineer selects an oil, he/she determines the viscosity required for actual operating conditions (higher temperature in our case). Unfortunately, as oil cools it becomes more viscous. This "excess" viscosity does no good, hence the use of multiweight oils. The ideal oil would have a single viscosity independent of temperature, but that just isn't possible.

[I Leak Oil]

I've used various brands of 10W40 for 14 years now. Hasn't exploded, disintigrated or failed yet. Just put something slippery in it and move on. It's not a Ferrari.

[stonefox]

I personally make my own from an old family recipe:

2 parts canola oil
1 part seasame oil
4 parts yak fat -hard to get these days so you can sudstitute Muskox fat(good for cold starts) :D

[I Leak Oil]

Sean, I believe that recipe is designated as 2NY14.:thumb-up:

[gudjeon]

I have found that some 5wxxx it 10wxxx are great in the cold or when they are put in new. After some time, even the best brand thins out when the ambient temps get warm. That's why if you go this route, use it for winter. This is the main reason I went to a good 0w50 or the Rotella 5W40 as I was too lazy to change it as soon as it warmed up again. Besides for amount of mileage I do and mostly put-put in the woods, I only change it once a year.:thumb-up:

[Lowlandbear]

I use 5w30 in winter and 10w40 in summer, but I live in Maine and the poor thing hardly heats up in winter, even with the front almost completely closed up.

[jac04]

After some time, even the best brand thins out when the ambient temps get warm. Post up your UOAs, they would be interesting to look at.

[TedW]

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

Some interesting info here for all you wonky types.

[gudjeon]

I don't bother with UOA's as one analysis costs as much as replacing with another batch of oil. I am just going by what the oil gauge does with a lighter weight of oil in warmer temps. Seems an overkill approach to a 1950's design engine. I like using decent stuff like the next guy, but I have other things to worry about.:D Now if I drove and engine that would cost me 30K to replace, that would be another story...

[jac04]

I don't bother with UOA's ...
Sorry, based on you statements I just figured that you had UOAs showing some specific 5W-xx or 10W-xx oils that showed an unacceptable viscosity breakdown after a relatively short period of time.

I understand that everyone has their own views on engine oil. Unfortunately, people tend to read what others state and take it as fact. Also, people tend to believe that "thicker is better" for engine oil. It may seem like a good idea, but an oil that provides a viscosity higher than the design viscosity at operating temperature is providing absolutely no benefit.

[gudjeon]

I just get nervous when an oil works out great at first, but thins out when it get hot, especially when hotter weather hits. An oil that can maintain its viscosity on the gauge is what I go by. Seeing the pressure dwindle when at idling at a light is not what I look for. Also, I have settled on changing once a year using a 0w50 or 5w40 for my all weather, all condition driving habits.:thumb-up: I used to be a summer oil/winter oil guy.

[NickDawson]

Im in Richmond just south of you, I've been running straight 50w (which is surprisingly listed as standard in the green bible for my 2.5L).

[bmohan55]

If you run rich (I have a rochester carb) and drive it a lot I found it's best to change it more than once a year because the gas may "leak down" and dilute the oil.

[luckyjoe]

jac04,

For my 109/2.25p, I just do not see any advantage to 5Wxx or 10Wxx oils. This is not to say they are a bad choice - they just don't put anything on the table so-to-speak. The 25W50 covers my application range quite well (presumably with less VII's), and is easily hand-cranked to build oil pressure prior to frigid starts.

I run Mobil Delvac1 5W40 in my 2003 VW Tdi, which is a modern (Group-3 base-stock) full synthetic, but this is simply not necessary for the 2.25p's working conditions. The Tdi has run Delvac1 since the initial break-in was complete. At 161k miles it has not lost a single psi of compression and returns 52mpg (highway). This is a tough application and UOA (I have not bothered with this since ~2005) has shown the 5W40 still has plenty of life at 10k change intervals.

On a whole I change the 109's fluid way more than needed (motor/diff's/trans/t-case/OD) but relax at the thought I can jump-in and go (long-haul, wheeling, daily-driver...) whenever I want.

Tom P.

[jac04]

The 25W50 covers my application range quite well...

What in your "application range" requires the use of a 25W-50 oil? Just curious.

[73series88]

10w 30 from wallmart all i ever use in my rover
aaron

[I Leak Oil]

10w 30 from wallmart all i ever use in my rover
aaron

And it hasn't grenaded yet?!:p

3 pages of debate on motor oil...wow.....

[jac04]

3 pages of debate on motor oil...wow.....
There are entire forums dedicated to debate on engine oil. :thumb-up:

[I Leak Oil]

Which is why I'm surprised it's being debated here.....;)

[jac04]

Isn't the topic supposed to get beaten to death repeatedly on every automotive forum?

[SalemRover]

Isn't the topic supposed to get beaten to death repeatedly on every automotive forum?

I suppose it does, since we are on the oil subject should we discuss greasing the swivel balls instead of gear oil while we are at it? :rolleyes:

-Jason

[I Leak Oil]

I suppose it does, since we are on the oil subject should we discuss greasing the swivel balls instead of gear oil while we are at it? :rolleyes:

-Jason

Who let you in here?!
We all know it's supposed to be 90wt anyway. No debate there....:popcorn:

[SalemRover]

Who let you in here?!
We all know it's supposed to be 90wt anyway. No debate there....:popcorn:

90wt is only useful as a car buffing agent! Anyone that convoys with me to events is entitled to a free sample.

[I Leak Oil]

I still have your diesel spatter all over the front of my truck from our last trip to Tripoli Rd.....a few years ago...90wt has nothing on diesel!

[SalemRover]

Correct me if I am wrong but that is *your* diesel spatter now mister!

[I Leak Oil]

Correct me if I am wrong but that is *your* diesel spatter now mister!
Oh, it will be soon enough...
Back on topic though. So what's the best oil and weight for a rover diesel? Let the next 4 pages begin!

[stonefox]

Dudes,any Mongolian Yak herder will tell that boiled down Yak fat has the best "UOA's" for its "application range" and the highest viscosity of any bovine out there. IMHO:D

Edit: BY the way it can be used in diesels ,swivel balls, and lonely herders have told me it works well in the rear end as well.:eek:

[I Leak Oil]

Sean, I'm not so sure it's a good idea to be telling people about lonely Mongolian yak herders telling you their deepest secrets! They didn't invite you to dinner in their yurt did they?!

(Gratuitous oil debate content) Who thinks I should try 3 in 1 oil in my 2.25 petrol before swapping is lazy arse out for my new, only slightly used but really beat diesel?

[stonefox]

You have a sick mind Jason ,I cant believe you misconstrued my words like that.Besides what happens at Yak camp stays at Yak camp.

[SalemRover]

Yak camp. That is fairly appropriate from my perspective. Im sticking to beer *only* from here on out. No more bison grass vodka for me. As far as your haggard 2.25 goes I was thinking along the lines of the largest gas powered leaf blower hooked up to the intake sans oil bath for a supercharged 2.25.

[stonefox]

I think thats a good policy I witnessed you on Bison grass vodka,It wasn't pretty.:D

[I Leak Oil]

Ooooo....I had almost forgotten about "yak" camp. Yes, Salemrover should stick to straight up beer, no doubt. That would be best for everyone.

So does anyone have any opinions on me using the 3 in 1 oil in my 2.25? When I was little I remember my mother using it on her sewing machines. I figure since the 2.25 sounds like a sewing machine I could use it....

[LaneRover]

Ooooo....I had almost forgotten about "yak" camp. Yes, Salemrover should stick to straight up beer, no doubt. That would be best for everyone.

So does anyone have any opinions on me using the 3 in 1 oil in my 2.25? When I was little I remember my mother using it on her sewing machines. I figure since the 2.25 sounds like a sewing machine I could use it....

That would be A LOT of wee little bottles. . .

[SalemRover]

There is a guy on the GNR board with a cracked block. Not sure what your timetable or where this guy is but there is potential for an oily lump of good rover karma there.

[I Leak Oil]

Not sure if the new GnR is willing to deal with us "idiots" who ask too many simple and dumb question here on the RN board though.:rolleyes:

[stonefox]

Not sure if the new GnR is willing to deal with us "idiots" who ask too many simple and dumb question here on the RN board though.:rolleyes:
Sad ,but seems to be true.

[SalemRover]

There are still alot of good folks there and even if some are getting grumpy I could care less. Years of owning a diesel and listening to Luke at GnR has not deterred me, so I dont care if some over there look down their noses at the "noobs" that post questions here. In fact the start(in part) to GnR was to get away from some of the childishness shown here. It is a small community and as time passes it will only get smaller so I have learned to accept and appreciate the quirks of all in this strange cult we are in, even "hotsauce". What those grumps fail to realize imho is that these tired old questions posed by new owners are their doors into our community and we "should" be a little nicer. However if you cannot take a ribbing about your rover then I can almost guarantee that your ownership and involvement will be short lived.

[stonefox]

There are still alot of good folks there and even if some are getting grumpy I could care less. Years of owning a diesel and listening to Luke at GnR has not deterred me, so I dont care if some over there look down their noses at the "noobs" that post questions here. In fact the start(in part) to GnR was to get away from some of the childishness shown here. It is a small community and as time passes it will only get smaller so I have learned to accept and appreciate the quirks of all in this strange cult we are in, even "hotsauce". What those grumps fail to realize imho is that these tired old questions posed by new owners are their doors into our community and we "should" be a little nicer. However if you cannot take a ribbing about your rover then I can almost guarantee that your ownership and involvement will be short lived.
Well said Jason.

[albersj51]

Personally, I really like GnR, its just got a different vibe. If you want to see a board full of jack @$$ go to the BMW boards. The DIYs are phenomenal, and the people who did them are great...everyone else thinks they are a genius and try to make others feel stupid...wonder how bimmer owners got their reputation.

GnR is a campfire theme, so its meant as more of a conversion where everyone gives, and gets, a good ribbing. Definitely not for everyone though.

[gudjeon]

Here, here! I like it because they give you " its the end of a long day, so here's what you gotta do" approach. As for others trying to make you look stupid, They can try as they might, but only I know how stupid I really am.:thumb-up:

[I Leak Oil]

That would be A LOT of wee little bottles. . .

Unless I can get it in bulk!

[yorker]

The Haynes book says SAE 10W/40 to 20W/50 and API SE or SF. I've been using Accel 10W/40 SF from Walmart which says "for model years 1988 and earlier" BUT after recently reading-up on oil, I've learned that SF is considered obsolete and the fact that the bottle doesn't have an API Certified seal means I should be wary.

What do people recommend? What's RN say? - Thanks

-Andy

Oh, and sorry if this is a duplicate post. It seems like a simple question but the search engine for the forum wouldn't search the word "oil" - at least not for me


If you have trouble with the search function on a forum you can always search that forum via Google by doing a site specific search, simply type
"oil site:https://www.roversnorth.com/forums (http://www.google.com/search?q=oil++site%3Ahttps%3A%2F%2Fwww.roversnorth .com%2Fforums&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&sourceid=ie7&rlz=1I7SUNA)" in the google search box and you'll search that specific site rather than the whole internet.

You can also use the same method to hunt for stuff on craigslist:
"series land rover diesel site:craigslist.org" (http://www.google.com/search?q=series+land+rover+diesel+site%3Acraigslis t.org&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&sourceid=ie7&rlz=1I7SUNA)

FWIW:
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l119/sepp45/LR%20parts/Oils.jpg

[knac1234]

Hello all,

Posted another thread about oil changes, but as this thread just touched on ZDDP, I want to ask again to clarify.

I am going to run 20/50 in the Rover....what the book calls for and what I run in my MGs and Imp (also by the book).

I used to always run Castrol GTX 20/50 in the MGs and Imp, but then found out it no longer contained ZDDP. I started using Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 20/50 which has an abundance in it.

So, ZDDP needed in the Rover????? Either I will go with Castrol GTX 20/50 or the VR1. Currently has 10/40 in there from the prev owner.

Cheers,
Julian

[jac04]

ZDDP is usually only needed for flat tappet cams. For example, I'll be running Cam Shield in my L30 small block Chevy. Lots of good info on their web site, including why "racing" oils are not necessarily a good choice for a street car:
http://www.cam-shield.com/acatalog/FAQ.html

[knac1234]

Thanks Jac-

I had found Teri Ann's site after posting this.....it confirms that ZDDP is not necessary as you say. Then BP says the opposite....confused!!!!

http://www.britishpacific.com/web/BPSite/LandRoverAccessories/Land_Rover_fluids.html

Open to ideas.....

Julian

[albersj51]

The BP data says use it the during break in for the first few changes. I seriously doubt you need it. As for GL4 vs GL5, many here use GL5 without issue. I read somewhere that nowadays the GL5 has buffers to prevent issues with softer metals.

Your call, my friend

[yorker]

So, ZDDP needed in the Rover????? Either I will go with Castrol GTX 20/50 or the VR1. Currently has 10/40 in there from the prev owner.

It really isn't something you need to worry about in the 2.25. You aren't going to have a ZDDP related failure. :thumb-up:

[knac1234]

Thanks all,

Just want that engine to last as long as possible!!!!

Castrol 20/50 GTX it is....in the 5 qt bottles so it's a bit less :thumb-up:

Cheers,
Julian

[gudjeon]

The old zinc additive didn't help 2 litre followers from wearing.