Intermediate shaft removal.

[Alk-3]

I'm planning to swap my transfer case out for a rebuilt unit this weekend, but in reading through the green bible it says I need a special tool to remove the intermediate shaft.. Is there a way to remove the shaft without this special tool? Is this toll available at an auto parts store?
I hope I don't have to order the tool and wait another couple weeks to do this job.. :confused:

[masonater]

I used a bolt from my random junk bin, coarse thread? cant remember what size. Threaded it in a little bit, used a puller on the head and out it came. It was not stuck in like i thought it would be and putting it back in took just a few light taps of a hammer. Make sure you put it back in so the lock key will line back up.

[Alk-3]

I used a bolt from my random junk bin, coarse thread? cant remember what size. Threaded it in a little bit, used a puller on the head and out it came. It was not stuck in like i thought it would be and putting it back in took just a few light taps of a hammer. Make sure you put it back in so the lock key will line back up.

Perfect. That's what I wanted to hear :thumb-up:

[cousindave]

I use a small pry bar in the slot came right out no damage the shaft is not in there to tight. Also when you pull out the shaft don't lose the copper washer on theend of th shaft and take note on which side the brass thrust washers came from. Those are the 1 1/2 inch washer that's on either side of the intermediate gear.

[I Leak Oil]

Usually the shaft does just slide right out with a gently pry from your favorite lever. I've had some that just don't want to move with that method. In fact I've had the ear on the shaft break off because it was stuck due to gauling between the shaft and aluminum case.

[73series88]

Havent had to do that yet.
Good luck
aaron

[robert wood]

If it is really tight the ear in the shaft will break off when you use a pry bar.

The certain way to get it out using a pry bar is to use a blowtorch to warm up the aluminum housing around the shaft on the aft side as you pry. It does not need to be very hot as the aluminum expands more than the steel.

If the ear is broken off you can grip the end of the shaft with a big vise grip and pry under the tip of the vise grip while twisting at the same time.

WE never had this problem in Africa. In North America road salt wicks into the shaft end and forms a level of corrosion that jams the shaft in.


Ray

[Alk-3]

This is all great advice.. I think I'll have to try the pry bar trick. The truck has seen two winters here in Canada, but there is no corrosion to speak of. I hope it comes out okay.
I spent the afternoon working on the swap. I got the floor out, and the seat box, after several skinned knuckles! I also have the rover drive overdrive removed, almost.. I forgot to bring along the long socket that comes with the rover drive.. Does anyone know what size that socket is? I may need to run into town to buy a new one.
Now that I have the floor and seat box removed, this looks like it's going to be a big job. It doesn't help that it's snowing wet snow all weekend and I'm working outside on a mud driveway...

[Alk-3]

Well, I got it done today! Turned out the mainshaft was no problem at all. Just slid right out with a pry bar to get it started.
Overall the job was pretty straight forward. It's a big job, but only because you need to take so many components apart to get at the transfer case.
The truck drives perfectly now, I think. I have only taken it on a short test drive, but it seems to have solved the noise issue I was having, and there is no slop in the output bearings so it's vibration free.
Thanks to everyone for the helpful advice!