New Owner Here - Pics!

[donnykaz]

Hey guys, just picked up an ex-military spec 24v series III. Just had the alternator rebuilt because it was toast. I have a few questions that maybe you can help with as I'm a bit new to these trucks.

First off the clutch is dead to the floor....should i go ahead and look to rebuild the whole system? Any write ups on the web?

The tires while not original are quite old. I doubt they would pass inspection. What are the options for tire/wheel combos that are a more common ( and cheaper) match? As you can see in the pics, the truck has the old school cookie cutter tires.

Is there a perticularly good vendor that deals with 24v series in the US. RN doesn't seem the stock much.

And the last question...what ballpark do you think the truck is worth?

Thanks so much!http://www.geocities.com/dkazmark/landie/00ce_3.JPGhttp://www.geocities.com/dkazmark/landie/02e4_3.JPGhttp://www.geocities.com/dkazmark/landie/fc11_3.JPG

[LaneRover]

Before you re-build the whole system, put in hydraulic fluid and see if you can find where it is leaking first. If that fails then you can look into re-building the whole thing.

Not sure about tire/wheel combos - my brother has some old 'Hercules' tires on his.

As for what it is worth - no clue. How is the frame? How is the engine? All sorts of stuff come in to play.

They are great little trucks and are a lot of fun but also can be quite frustrating at times!

LaneRover

[Willard]

As for 24V parts, not to many people deal with the parts. for small things yuo can get these from any NAPA or big rig store. Thats where i use to get parts for my Cruiser. For other parts. most i have found (i have a 109 FFR) you will need to bring over from the UK for the larger parts.
Things like Starters, alternators cost is high for these parts and a rebuild (as you did) is a better option.

For the most part there are not that many bits that go wrong, lights and such seem to be the worst but these can be ordered anywhere.

[yorker]

I saw that truck on ebay a while ago- did you manage to get the paperwork worked out? IIRC the seller said there was none, that he had just used it as a beach truck.

[donnykaz]

Since I'm in NY it will be a little difficult to register, but the DMV wanted to notorized story listing the details on the car, also a picture of the vin plate, and a few other things. It seems the more details you can produce, the better chance you have......after doing the clutch, I'm going to get it registered......:thumb-up:

[Les Parker]

Hello there,
I'm disappointed to read "RN doesn't stock much". We carry a fair amount of 24v material, mainly good, used parts.
Please ask if you have a specific requirement.:eek::eek:

[Jeff Aronson]

The clutch system is fairly simple on Land Rovers, so your first look should be at the hydraulic fluid in the reservoir.

If there's none, fill it. Find the slave cylinder - on a Series III it's on the right or left side [the II-A is on the right] of the transmission tunnel. There's a circular rubber plug on the inside of the car that you can remove to find it. The slave cylinder has a bleed screw. Loosen it and have someone pump the clutch pedal down. Then hold it to the floor, tighten the screw, and do it again. You want to push out air bubbles until you have none. Check the fluid level often. It doesn't take long to empty it out.

If the system is tight, it should produce some pressure at the pedal. If the slave cylinder leaks, it's an easy replacement. You can buy seal kits for the master and the slave cylinder, but if they have much pitting from water and corrosion, then you'll never get a tight seal or a hard pedal.

Check that the rubber line from the master cylinder to the slave is not leaking, too. Unless the car sat for a long, long time, there's probably just a leak somewhere.

If there's plenty of fluid but no clutch, then you may have internal leakage within the master cylinder. Is the fluid a light, shiny brown or does it have a dull gray tinge? If it's the latter, then you may find that the master cylinder seals are failing and that's why it won't hold any pressure.

Good luck, and congratulations on your Military. I think you'll find that Rovers North has a lot more parts for 24V systems than you might think :thumb-up:

Best wishes,

Jeff

[donnykaz]

The clutch advice was great, don't see any leaks.....but the slave seems to be caked in old grease etc.......i'll try bleeding it when it is a bit warmer out.

Does anybody know if the factory hard top will fit over the soft top bows or do they need to be removed?

What replacement wheels are available to get rid of the skinny original tires?

Good to know that RN does have the 24v spares, when I did a search it didn't seem as though much came up. I should have called, I stand corrected.

Once again, sorry for having so many questions....it is interesting have similar this truck is turning out to be in relation to my old 4 banger TJ Wrangler.

[yorker]

How big a tire do you really want to run? remember your 4 Banger Wrangler probably had more HP. These things are like a civilized tractor by comparison.

there is a guy on the Guns and Rovers board who is giving away a bunchg of 24v stuff:
http://p200.ezboard.com/fgunsandroversfrm8.showMessage?topicID=313.topic

[donnykaz]

Honestly, I wasn't looking to go big at all. I was looking for a wheel size that is a little wider then what is one the truck now with a more practical and common tire size. Hopefully give the truck a bit more stable ride. The tires on the truck now seem pretty bad so new rubber is a priority. Thanks for the heads up for 24v parts!

-Don

[yorker]

What size is on it now? You really have a lot of options... Read this first:
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/t-technicalinfotipswheelstires.aspx

[fruitpunch]

Hello there,
I'm disappointed to read "RN doesn't stock much". We carry a fair amount of 24v material, mainly good, used parts.
Please ask if you have a specific requirement.:eek::eek:

Les only catch I always have is the RN part number system, there is never a quick look up. I was recently looking for this item... 600732... well I could spend a good half an hour on RN webpage trying to figure out if you have it (I do admit that using old numbers that may have been super seeded causes a problem)

Sure I can call during business hours but still it isn't user friendly. I understand the reasons for the encrypted part number system but I don't believe in it. I have seen some real part numbers used again in the last year or so but I am not sure if this is a trend or just the time it takes to encrypt them.

Another example... easiest search is by keyword as part numbers does not work. If a customer types "24volt" or "24 volt" makes a huge difference and to me it the #1 reason part number search system is absolutely needed.

Looking up 24volt points RTC6622 actually does work, I guess a complete Rover Part Number search system would be every customers dream.

[LaneRover]

The hard top will not fit over the soft top hoops. You will have to remove them.

LaneRover

[GrFa]

Well the previous owner of that truck said I could have it for $1200, so I'd say its worth $1200. Also I would look into swapping out the front axle and making it a 4x4. I actually tried to buy this truck twice, I was going to use it for parts because the soft top stuff, rear tailgate, etc. are all worth a lot.

[TSR53]

Les only catch I always have is the RN part number system, there is never a quick look up. I was recently looking for this item... 600732... well I could spend a good half an hour on RN webpage trying to figure out if you have it (I do admit that using old numbers that may have been super seeded causes a problem)

Sure I can call during business hours but still it isn't user friendly. I understand the reasons for the encrypted part number system but I don't believe in it. I have seen some real part numbers used again in the last year or so but I am not sure if this is a trend or just the time it takes to encrypt them.

Another example... easiest search is by keyword as part numbers does not work. If a customer types "24volt" or "24 volt" makes a huge difference and to me it the #1 reason part number search system is absolutely needed.

Looking up 24volt points RTC6622 actually does work, I guess a complete Rover Part Number search system would be every customers dream.

The RN search engine looks through the following fields;
SKU# (Displayed Rovers North part number)
Mfg Part# (Land Rover Genuine part number)
Product descriptions
Extended descriptions

Looking up a search for only "RTC6622" does work. The complete LR parts db and RN number search is constantly being uploaded and added too - more to come - stay tuned.

[DonFromCanada]

Honestly, I wasn't looking to go big at all. I was looking for a wheel size that is a little wider then what is one the truck now with a more practical and common tire size. Hopefully give the truck a bit more stable ride. The tires on the truck now seem pretty bad so new rubber is a priority. Thanks for the heads up for 24v parts!

-Don


I just picked up a 1983 109 Military 2-dr hardtop FFR 24v - and my name is Don too... that's just uncanny.

Let me know how your search for 24v parts is going... I've been considering replacing the entire wiring harness with a modern resto part (proper fuse panel, clean wires, etc), and wasn't sure if I should consider converting it to 12v to make maintenance and parts search easier?

Thanks!

DonFromCanada

[TJR]

Its probably obvious to some, but not to me.. What are the extra "L" shaped tubes connected to the hoop set, just behind each door top?

Are those for radio antenna mounts? I recall seeing canvas tops with little side flaps on some FFR MOD vehicles? Is that was was behind soft top?

.. Talbot

Southern Maine
73 88" Ser III life-long rebuild

[donnykaz]

yeah I would assume that those were mounting points but honestly i'm not too sure.......

[J!m]

Possibly to tie the hoop set to the roll-over bar?