fuel pump rebuild question

[masonater]

Im not sure what fuel pump I have, the diaphragm does not look like genuine or aftermarket ones i have seen. I have the rebuild kits for both types. I would like to rebuild my pump since i am doing everything else on the truck (70 109 ex mod IIa) How do i remove the 2 small valves in the pump? I attached a pic of the valves and the diaphragm that came out of mine (left) and the one in my genuine rebuild kit (right) any help would be great, i dont want to just start digging with a flat head...

[jac04]

Did you buy a Genuine pump rebuild kit? If so, the diaphram may be wrong. The stud protrudes from the wrong side, and the spring won't seat properly. LR has been making them wrong for some time from what I gather.

As for the 2 small valves, they are staked in place. You must carefully remove the upset material from the pump body to remove them. Once the new valves are in, you must use a drift to stake them in place again. Kind of a PITA, but I have rebuilt several pumps with excellent results.

[masonater]

I bought an aftermarket kit, but the diaphragm ends did not match up at all. i found a genuine kit in my stash a PO from another rover I have must have purchased, sealed in LR bags. Mine was working just fine before so i wonder if i can reuse the diaphragm (bad idea?). I see what you are saying about the valves, thats what I thought needed to be done. i see the very tiny tabs ill need bend over the new valves. Speaking of those, the genuine kit and aftermarket kit valves look different than the ones i have in now, i assume they work the same way? thanks for your help yet again jeff!

[jac04]

I remember the valves looking slightly different as well. I used the new valves from a Genuine LR rebuild kit on the pump for my Lightweight. For the reason stated above, I had to reuse the original diaphram. If the diaphram is in good shape with no signs of distress (like mine was), I say go ahead and use it.

Here is a comparison of an original diaphram versus a new genuine (made incorrectly) one:
(Edit: Just noticed that you can read the valve removal instructions in the SIII Green Bible in the picture!)

[masonater]

I remember the valves looking slightly different as well. I used the new valves from a Genuine LR rebuild kit on the pump for my Lightweight. For the reason stated above, I had to reuse the original diaphram. If the diaphram is in good shape with no signs of distress (like mine was), I say go ahead and use it.

Here is a comparison of an original diaphram versus a new genuine (made incorrectly) one:
(Edit: Just noticed that you can read the valve removal instructions in the SIII Green Bible in the picture!)

That is crazy LR made them wrong! that's the new one i have for sure. My diaphragm looks fine so good to know i can reuse it. Back to the valves...stalking? forgive me but that is not in my rover vocab yet. So im clear, scrape away the metal tabs that are bent over the edges of the valves and pop them out? Also with the genuine rebuild kit is a small redish washer made out of some plastic-ish stuff, know where that goes? long shot i know...

[TeriAnn]

That is crazy LR made them wrong!

I thought so too and did a little research on the kits in the early 90's. As it turns out Land Rover doesn't make them. The pumps are an AC design that AC is no longer making. There is one company in Turkey that makes these parts for all the rebuild kits for all the AC mechanical fuel pumps. Numerous companies have pointed out to them that the parts are assembled wrong but the single company in the world that makes the parts doesn't want to retool for correct assembly citing that the diaphragm assembly works just fine the way they assemble it.

So unless another company wants to start building rebuild kits for old obsolete fuel pumps we are stuck with what we get. It looks wrong but it works.

As far as the pumps are concerned. There is an early version and a late version. The early version has a removable retainer for the valves. Remove the retainer, swap the valves, replace the retainer. This is the version that is documented in all the workshop manuals.

The later version of the pump does not have this retainer. Instead there are edges around the valve that is peened over the edge of the valve to hold them in place. You need to lever the peened edge away from the valve, swap valves, then peen the edge over the valve with a punch to get it to stay in place. Don't do it right, a valve falls out and you get to repeen it alongside the trail.

I don't have any advice about correct peening methods as I've never rebuild a new style pump. Thankfully my TR3 has and 2.25 LR engine had the old style pump.

[I Leak Oil]

FWIW, new pumps are cheap enough that, to me, it's not worth rebuilding an old one. The rebuild kits don't address a worn actuator lever anyway.
Just my 2 centavos.

[jac04]

It looks wrong but it works.

As far as the pumps are concerned. There is an early version and a late version. The early version has a removable retainer for the valves. Remove the retainer, swap the valves, replace the retainer. This is the version that is documented in all the workshop manuals.

The wrong diaphram will work, but the spring will become offset during operation (at least it did when I tested it). I was worried about the radial load imposed by the spring being offset.

The early version pump isn't documented in the SIII manual, the later version is.

[jac04]

That is crazy LR made them wrong! that's the new one i have for sure. My diaphragm looks fine so good to know i can reuse it. Back to the valves...stalking? forgive me but that is not in my rover vocab yet. So im clear, scrape away the metal tabs that are bent over the edges of the valves and pop them out? Also with the genuine rebuild kit is a small redish washer made out of some plastic-ish stuff, know where that goes? long shot i know...

Staking, not stalking. Staking is upsetting/deforming the metal around the opening to hold the valves in place. The gaskets go under the valves.

[masonater]

ha right. Well i did it, it wasnt pretty but i got the valves out and pressed new ones in and made sure they wont come out. Next time i will probably just buy a new pump. I'm glad i did it though for more of a learning experience. Thanks to all for the help. Tested it and seems to work just fine.

[I Leak Oil]

I suppose if you're really determined and slightly crafty you could remove the diaphram from the rebuild kit assembly and use it on the old stem.