Custom Hand Brushed Aluminum paint job

[LH Drive]

I'm far from starting to mount my Series LR body as I don't even have a rolling chassis but I'm thinking ahead how this paint scheme would look. My original plan was to polish the aluminum body but my LR's body is not straight and it would look bad. Plus my polished test panels were too bright in the direct sun light. The few parts I polished over a year ago were not coated and developed a white corrosion film substance. I have read that coating the bare aluminum with a product like POR15 Glisten PC would keep it looking new. One could spray or brush this product on. I'm going to order a small pint with the recomended prep cleaner of this product and test it on a few scrap panels first.
I'd like to do a hand brushed aluminum pattern using 100 thru 240 grid sand paper as it will not be as shiny and the brush lines might look okay along the dents. My current doors were done using 400 grit sand paper and you can see the sand lines. I didn't use a straight line guide and my sanding lines were free hand and came out uneven. I would take my time to get these brush lines right and must be coated within 24 hours to prevent contamination before coating. The POR15 Glisten product comes in a semi gloss finish and I have read that it tones down the shine just a bit and if thinned out with Xylene and I might get a satin finish instead. If my test panels work out, I'll do the entire outer body along with all the inner doors and hood underside. I like the two tone look, the lower silver half with dark gray top and orange pinstripe between the colors. This paint job will look close to the one off the Defender Aznom and Icon FJ40 as it is also comes in hand brushed aluminum.
I think I could spray this in my garage if Icome up with a make-shift paint booth. Not looking for a show finish and would like to do most of the work myself. I'd like to paint the bulkhead dark gray along with the interior of the Series truck. The hard top will be dark gray and the entire hood, engine bay and top of the wings like the Defender Aznom. I'll leave the safari sun sheild white to keep things cool inside. The wheels would be painted dark gray like the D-Aznom and i'd apply a small orange pinstripe along the bead edge to match the bodies stripe.

[LH Drive]

Here is a picture of the Aznom Defender with matt black upper half. The Dark Gray I would use would also have a matt finish.

[LaneRover]

In the pics the Defender Aznom looks white to me.

I know there was a guy in the Northwest who had a polished aluminum Rover.

Are you looking for comments? Suggestions?

It could definitely be an interesting look.

[jac04]

I would like to see some of the test panels. You will need to figure out what to do with the direction of brushing at the fronts of the wings. Do you try to stay horizontal with the sides of the wings, or do you follow the tops of the wings and go vertical.

I think it will look good if you do it correctly, but IMO getting a nice even looking brush finish can be very difficult. I just did a brushed finish on a stainless steel transverse muffler fom my 68 Camaro, and getting the finish to look even was a PITA ... and that was only over a surface about 24" x 12".

[siii8873]

a roller would give a more even finish than abrush

[Cutter]

There was a defender in town that had a brushed finish, I was not a fan of the look but it was more of a circular brush pattern. Seems like a lot of work to me but if that's your thing and you have the time, go for it! Can always paint over it if you change your mind.

[LH Drive]

In the pics the Defender Aznom looks white to me.

Are you looking for comments? Suggestions?

It could definitely be an interesting look.

I have plenty of time to think this over. I'll do some 12"x24" aluminum test panels and see how it will look in the direct sun light within the next few weeks.

The comment about getting the lines to look straight does sound like a PITA especially with all the rivets and a wavy dented aluminum body. I'll try a ground metal abstract swirl test panel and see if it's not too crazy.
I made a couple of colored renderings of what it could look like.

[LH Drive]

One I came up with will be in three shades of gray. light/dark gray paint with brushed aluminum doors, vent covers, wing tops and front head light panel. So far I like this tri color scheme the best as the light gray would cover most of the body that has the most dents and rivets. Plus I wouldn't need to furthur strip the body and just prep and paint. Also like that I will not have to paint the galvanized cappings and still get a two tone effect when the hard top will be removed. If things go well, the body will be sitting on a new galvanized chassis.

[LaneRover]

One I came up with will be in three shades of gray. light/dark gray paint with brushed aluminum doors, vent covers, wing tops and front head light panel. So far I like this tri color scheme the best as the light gray would cover most of the body that has the most dents and rivets. Plus I wouldn't need to furthur strip the body and just prep and paint. Also like that I will not have to paint the galvanized cappings and still get a two tone effect when the hard top will be removed. If things go well, the body will be sitting on a new galvanized chassis.

IMHO I think it would look better with the door tops the same color as the top sides. Gives it more of a continuous look, with the door one color I think it gives it a more haphazard thrown together look.

[Eric W S]

Brushed aluminum doors vents etc might induce galv corrision if you don't properly treat the bulkhead.

I'd forget the goofy schemes you are thinking about and get a proper paint job. Midwest salt will destroy brushed aluminum and body parts are getting scarce to source.

[disco2hse]

That "Aznom" umm. is that just a reversed image that is supposed to Monza?? I can't tell what the other badge says, too low resolution.

The third image in that posting is a Toyota. You know that huh?

Of course you'll get a dull grey coating when you've polished aluminium. It's supposed to be there and protects the metal from further oxidisation. LR have over the years produced vehicles with either lacquered aluminium or as just unpainted panels (a friend's 107 is a case in point). Leave them long enough and the paint will probably fall off anyway.

And yes, forget the goofy paint job. If you want to pursue that I think there are better vehicles to experiment on like those new Toyota FJ40's. The series tends to look best either in monochrome or duotone, or in my case multiple shades depending on what paint I have in the garage at the time :o

[LH Drive]

Thanks for the imput. I have plenty of time to consider what paint color I'll go with. Keep the replies comming as it will kill the erge to go with a custom paint job and make me look in the direction of a stock series color instead.

[rwollschlager]

Brushed aluminum doors vents etc might induce galv corrision if you don't properly treat the bulkhead.

I'd forget the goofy schemes you are thinking about and get a proper paint job. Midwest salt will destroy brushed aluminum and body parts are getting scarce to source.

x2 if your looking for silver you could achieve finish by just painting it silver and be protected from corrosion. If your series III is a NAS spec make sure you remove or do a good job coating the steel tub supports, otherwise your newly painted finished will be bubbling with corrosion. With that in mind I say go for the custom job, its your truck, do what you want.

-Rob

[I Leak Oil]

With that in mind I say go for the custom job, its your truck, do what you want.

Exactly....

[Cutter]

There was a silver 109 s111 for sale in CT I think recently, not sure if it was paint or bare. Maybe someone on here has pictures or owns it now?

[LH Drive]

With that in mind I say go for the custom job, its your truck, do what you want.

-Rob

Thats what my close friend just told me, he also said if and when I decide to sell the Rover that I not only have to find a person thats interested in Series Rovers but I'd have to find the right person thats interested in Series Rovers with a custom paint job. I'm not sure how many of those are around. This has me thinking about keeping to the original 70's stock colors now

[rwollschlager]

you can still do a custom paint job without going over the top, I dug up some pictures of a friends 88 which he painted silver with a black roof, similar to the scheme you were considering earlier, it looked pretty sharp...
-Rob

[JackIIA]

Thats what my close friend just told me, he also said if and when I decide to sell the Rover that I not only have to find a person thats interested in Series Rovers but I'd have to find the right person thats interested in Series Rovers with a custom paint job. I'm not sure how many of those are around. This has me thinking about keeping to the original 70's stock colors now

Partly true. Most people who know these trucks are going to be more concerned with your frame, bulkhead, engine, transmission, etc. Unless you forsee being able to garner top dollar for it (e.g., a full refurbishment), the paint color won't impact resale that much. Paint it what you like, you're the one who'll be driving it. If you're still worried about it, maybe take the color selection to something that's still true to your 'vision' but alittle more conservative.

[Momo]

The whole "it's your car, do what you want" philosophy is sort of a cop-out in my opinion.

If you had told us you wanted to paint it orange metalflake, install shag green carpet, and roll it on 22s with low profile tires and airbags, I hope people would be honest and tell you that's a really bad idea.

Classic cars are always worth more in original paint colors. With very few exceptions, custom paint jobs should be avoided. If it were an early 80s Bronco or Blazer, it could work, because that's the look they had, along with oversize chrome wheels and tires. But Series Land Rovers are not flashy cars, so flashy paint jobs look really out of place. The best thing you can do is to give it a high quality paint job in a stock color.

[albersj51]

A buddy of mine that builds custom motorcycles and does the paint and graphics himself (he'll be painting mine) keeps trying to convince me to paint mine metallic and do something "original"...he doesnt get the whole classic, keep it original thing. But, I do get his point...its mine, do what I want. I'm looking at series and defender colors. In the lead is Arles Blue (a defender color), which is similar to marine blue, but a little darker with more grey (thanks meatblanket). Is it factory? No. original? Somewhat. Acceptable to the rover community and its enthusiasts? I think so.

[Eric W S]

Partly true. Most people who know these trucks are going to be more concerned with your frame, bulkhead, engine, transmission, etc. Unless you forsee being able to garner top dollar for it (e.g., a full refurbishment), the paint color won't impact resale that much. Paint it what you like, you're the one who'll be driving it. If you're still worried about it, maybe take the color selection to something that's still true to your 'vision' but alittle more conservative.

Not really. It's expensive to properly repaint a series truck. Usually there is a good deal of dis-assembly involved to get it right. Most people do not want to buy a truck to just repaint it.

Most people want the right color - thye have the favorite from the palet. The ones that don't care are new to the LRs.

[Eric W S]

The whole "it's your car, do what you want" philosophy is sort of a cop-out in my opinion.

If you had told us you wanted to paint it orange metalflake, install shag green carpet, and roll it on 22s with low profile tires and airbags, I hope people would be honest and tell you that's a really bad idea.

Classic cars are always worth more in original paint colors. With very few exceptions, custom paint jobs should be avoided. If it were an early 80s Bronco or Blazer, it could work, because that's the look they had, along with oversize chrome wheels and tires. But Series Land Rovers are not flashy cars, so flashy paint jobs look really out of place. The best thing you can do is to give it a high quality paint job in a stock color.

Could not have said it better myself!

[SalemRover]

The whole "it's your car, do what you want" philosophy is sort of a cop-out in my opinion.

If you had told us you wanted to paint it orange metalflake, install shag green carpet, and roll it on 22s with low profile tires and airbags, I hope people would be honest and tell you that's a really bad idea.

Classic cars are always worth more in original paint colors. With very few exceptions, custom paint jobs should be avoided. If it were an early 80s Bronco or Blazer, it could work, because that's the look they had, along with oversize chrome wheels and tires. But Series Land Rovers are not flashy cars, so flashy paint jobs look really out of place. The best thing you can do is to give it a high quality paint job in a stock color.

I respectfully disagree. Your argument is what you state in your first sentence, an opinion. That said I am always amazed at the plethora of incarnations that series land rovers come in. It's great that some people are OCD on their stock restorations, at the same time I love the mods so an elephant can drive it, ice cream truck, etc. It just adds appeal to the marque as they can do and be nearly anything. My analogy is that a rover is like a set of legos. Its great fun to build the object on the box, but half the fun is coming up with the myriad of other things those building blocks are capable of. That is my opinion and opinions are like... well you know the rest.

-Jason

[I Leak Oil]

The whole "it's your car, do what you want" philosophy is sort of a cop-out in my opinion.

Momo, at least you admit it's your opinion but the fact remains that if I wanted to paint one of my trucks pink with purple and yellow flower child daisies, it's my truck and I can damn well do what I please. Not a cop-out but a fact. I'm sure some would tell me it's not a good idea (God I hope you would!) but if that's what I want then so be it. I think Series trucks break the mold a little bit as far as original vs. value. I'd take a lime green and light blue series with a good frame and bulkhead over a pastel green, nice patina, rust infested POS any day of the week. Series trucks were born to become non-factory. Will an original color add a little to the value? To most but not all. If you want resale value buy a Camry...
That's my 2 cents.

[albersj51]

I think part of the difference is perception. To many here, its an old farm truck that should be used and abused...the dents and dings are like battle scars. But some view it as a classic car and want it done to factory spec, with a few upgrades maybe. The NADA value shows this. Do I put a lot of stock in KBB/NADA, not really. However, it is a good data point. Another is the Orvis Rover, or the ebay one where bids were over $30k. We may poke fun at these, but it proves that there is value in these old rigs, if they are done properly. Pink and purple isn't proper! :)

I do agree, its yours so do as you wish. However, if you do plan on selling it and getting top dollar, then you should consider sticking to fairly standard designs and upgrades. Building to your tastes is great. But, the further from stock you go, the more you alienate it, which makes it that much harder to find the right buyer...just my humble opinion.

[I Leak Oil]

...the further from stock you go, the more you alienate it, which makes it that much harder to find the right buyer...just my humble opinion.

I had the pleasure of seeing Ike's old SI in action at this year's Winter Romp. It's hardly stock and hardly "proper". It outperformed any stock SI and I'm sure it cost the new buyer a pretty penny too.

My guess is that there are far more modified rovers, to any extent, out there than there are factory originals. Just the act of respraying a truck makes in non-original...whether the paint job is expensive or not, it's still not factory.

[albersj51]

I had the pleasure of seeing Ike's old SI in action at this year's Winter Romp. It's hardly stock and hardly "proper". It outperformed any stock SI and I'm sure it cost the new buyer a pretty penny too.

My guess is that there are far more modified rovers, to any extent, out there than there are factory originals. Just the act of respraying a truck makes in non-original...whether the paint job is expensive or not, it's still not factory.


A very good point, and well taken...However, that was built by Ike, a man known for his quality and abilities (hence why I am going to him for many of my NLA parts). Had I built that, a man not known in the Rover community for building custom off-road rigs, I guarantee I wouldnt get people lining up for it. 1. because no one knows me...YET! :) 2. That lack of awareness means I dont have as many people to market it to. Same goes for Lanny Clark and the Orvis Rover...had I built that, I may have gotten 25% of that price...MAYBE, if I had a four-leaf clover up my rear.

Also, if its highly modified for off-road use, I would argue it is still narrowing the market of potential buyers. For someone looking for that, and doesnt want to do the work themselves, you can sell it at top dollar. However, I believe (dont have any quantitative data to back it up) there is a larger market for those rigs that are closer to factory spec (a repaint would still count if it is a factory color, since I'm talking about spec, not factory original :) ).

[JackIIA]

The differences in opinion (and that's all they are) should point you to the correct answer. Your own.

And Eric, I'd sure rather take off the fenders, tub, etc., for a repaint then have a turd with poppy red on it.

[I Leak Oil]

A very good point, and well taken...However, that was built by Ike, a man known for his quality and abilities (hence why I am going to him for many of my NLA parts). Had I built that, a man not known in the Rover community for building custom off-road rigs, I guarantee I wouldnt get people lining up for it. 1. because no one knows me...YET! :) 2. That lack of awareness means I dont have as many people to market it to. Same goes for Lanny Clark and the Orvis Rover...had I built that, I may have gotten 25% of that price...MAYBE, if I had a four-leaf clover up my rear.

None of that negates the fact that a non factory spec., non "proper" rover can fetch both attention and a pretty penny. In fact I would bet for every "Lanny Clark Orvis Rover" with all it's properness there are many more modified, non factory, blasphemous rover conversions that are just as sought after by those who are "in the know". Not all true enthusiasts are stuck on Bronze Green and 10 spline axles.

[I Leak Oil]

Just thinking out loud here, but I wonder what pool of real potential buyers was larger. The pool for a $100K "proper" factory spec series truck Built by Lanny Clark or the pool for a modified, non "proper" cool old SI that Ike built. Take the names out of the equation and I'd bet the pool for the SI is bigger.....

[albersj51]

Just thinking out loud here, but I wonder what pool of real potential buyers was larger. The pool for a $100K "proper" factory spec series truck Built by Lanny Clark or the pool for a modified, non "proper" cool old SI that Ike built. Take the names out of the equation and I'd bet the pool for the SI is bigger.....


That would be cool to find out. I am not a rivet counter by any means. You could call me a Mr. Middle Man...I like stock with some mods/upgrades.

As JackIIA said, its all personal opinion.

[I Leak Oil]

As JackIIA said, its all personal opinion.

Yes, it all goes back to "it's your truck, do what you want". Think of how boring it would be if we all had bronze green 88's with limestone hard tops and 2.25 petrols.....Oh wait, that's me!:eek:

[98 HOO]

http://www.independent4x.com/encapsgallery/catalog.php?action=show_custom&id=229&cat=5

[mongoswede]

Strip it to bare aluminum and then clear coat all the panels with a good clear coat and it should last a while and you wont have to worry about oxidation.

[LH Drive]

Strip it to bare aluminum and then clear coat all the panels with a good clear coat and it should last a while and you wont have to worry about oxidation.
That is what I was considering. Not poslishing the brimabrite to a mirror shine and using the POR15 clear Glisten PC semi-gloss coating. Reading about this product, its been proven not to cause corrosion and has been spray salt tested with great results.
I once saw an old LR Series ad where one is starting to ford water and the Series body is bare aluminum. The ad was for corrosion resistance.

[albersj51]

Strip it to bare aluminum and then clear coat all the panels with a good clear coat and it should last a while and you wont have to worry about oxidation.

cool idea! But will clear stick to bare aluminum? I would think you'd need some sort of primer...

[Eric W S]

None of that negates the fact that a non factory spec., non "proper" rover can fetch both attention and a pretty penny. In fact I would bet for every "Lanny Clark Orvis Rover" with all it's properness there are many more modified, non factory, blasphemous rover conversions that are just as sought after by those who are "in the know". Not all true enthusiasts are stuck on Bronze Green and 10 spline axles.


Name one that wasn't built by ECR, Ike or Timm Cooper. Those are are in their own league.

In fact most people look for the straightest most original truck to start bastardizing to begin with.

You are the only one defining enthusiasts as well. It's like you are defending your personal position for some reason or at least trying to legitimize it. Why I do not know.

But stop throwing generailized BS out there.

[I Leak Oil]

You are the only one defining enthusiasts as well. It's like you are defending your personal position for some reason or at least trying to legitimize it. Why I do not know.

But stop throwing generailized BS out there.

Actually Eric, I'm taking a position that someone can do what ever they choose to with their truck and that doesn't make them any less of an enthusiast. Maybe they're not a traditionalist, but no less, still an enthusiast. Just because someone doesn't agree with YOU doesn't make their position BS.
I've respected your opinions and knowledge over the years but lately you seem to think you have the market cornered on what is right and what is not on all things rover.
Why are you here with us RN idiots anyway?

[Momo]

Momo, at least you admit it's your opinion but the fact remains that if I wanted to paint one of my trucks pink with purple and yellow flower child daisies, it's my truck and I can damn well do what I please. Not a cop-out but a fact.

38 posts so far on this thread and not one person has said "That is a great idea for a paint job- it would look really nice."

That's why I say it's a cop out.

The truth is, it won't look very good on a Land Rover, we all know it, and I would hate to see the OP go through a lot of toil for a look that in the end doesn't work. It would look better with a rattle can finish in desert tan. That's how un-flashy they are. That's the beauty of it.

[SalemRover]

38 posts so far on this thread and not one person has said "That is a great idea for a paint job- it would look really nice."

That's why I say it's a cop out.

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk13/Blacklatino/lebowski.jpg

[I Leak Oil]

I think we all just need to agree to disagree on this. No need for any bad blood.

[Eric W S]

Actually Eric, I'm taking a position that someone can do what ever they choose to with their truck and that doesn't make them any less of an enthusiast. Maybe they're not a traditionalist, but no less, still an enthusiast. Just because someone doesn't agree with YOU doesn't make their position BS.
I've respected your opinions and knowledge over the years but lately you seem to think you have the market cornered on what is right and what is not on all things rover.
Why are you here with us RN idiots anyway?

Your post is misleading to say the least. Let's set the record straight. I rarely offer a strong personal opinion on this board. Period. Search my posts. Hardly "imposing" or "corning the market" (which is a farily weak anaology for opinons to begin with). I have never, ever said I was the "be all know all" anything and everything rover nor do I imply it. Not here or anywhere else. I have been nothing but amicable here and on the other Series board I frequent.

The real situtation is I called you out to defend your position. You could not so you launch into this weak passive agressive Ad Hom BS of a strawman argument becasue you can't support your own position. Period.

You don't like my posts ignore them and stop whining.

[I Leak Oil]

http://siteground237.com/~gunsandr/showthread.php?218-S2A-Bulkhead-Questions&p=2107#post2107

[albersj51]

Hey! That's my thread!!

BTW, that's 300 posts for me!



http://siteground237.com/~gunsandr/showthread.php?218-S2A-Bulkhead-Questions&p=2107#post2107

[LH Drive]

Guys, I'm sorry this thread is going in the wrong direction. Thanks for your honest opinions and by no means do I feel offended by them. I've been a long time forum reader and lurker in the dark and I do respect all your decisions on how this forum takes care of our beloved old Series Rovers.
I'll keep my future post more conservative and more "Original factory spec" related unless it's intended towards drive train and suspension upgrades, those are never frowned upon on any auto restoration site. I should have started this thread on a younger crowd more custom paint job appeal, tube bending chassis, pirate flag forum had I wanted the "thumbs up," seal of approval.
I love the original faded patina paint our Series Rovers wear. It adds character to these unique trucks. My LR came with a less expensive Maco white paint job over the original marine blue color. I've tried to just fine wet-sand and try to remove the Maco paint to revile the marine blue color but was unsuccessful. I ended up sanding through all the layers of paint and got down to bare aluminum on too many spots. That's where I'm at today. I like the look of exposed aluminum only by natural weathered wear and don't want to repaint and wait 30 year till I get the look I want. I've even considered finding a solid weathered Series body and using that instead of the one I have. Don't want a completely bare aluminum body as I feel it's to bare. I agree that the two tone paint job with orange pinstripe should be left for the fast and furious neon light vehicles. Thanks to you guys, you have made me snap back to reality and focus on what I really have my heart set on. This sounds like I'm picky or maybe I'm just going through my mid 30's life crisis and can't make up my mind.
I have an airbrushing background and know how to lay down paint. I will attempt to try and recreate a weathered patina foe finish paint job on a spare Series door I have as that would be more what I'm looking for. If I'm successful at it after a few test panels, I think it would be appreciated by this forum. Chris

[albersj51]

Chris,

I think I speak for many here when I say you should feel free to throw ideas/mods out there...otherwise, we wouldnt know about power steering or disc brakes!

I think you'll find that, as a group, we're not all purists (me included). while this thread went a different direction, it did serve a purpose; it "snapped" you back :). in all seriousness though, do as you wish!! I thought about bare ask aluminium myself and, in theory, it would be cool.

BTW, I was surprised to find that the age range here seems to skew younger (i'm 31), so no need to look elsewhere for a younger demo. But, pirate4x4 has a series section with some good stuff in it.

In the end, you got what you were looking for (i think), opinions. So by all means, keep posting! If someone doesn't like it, they can ignore it.

Jason

[Momo]

Chris, check this thread out: http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4487&highlight=patina

And Salem Rover:

You have added nothing to this thread. Yes, it is my opinion. What the hell is your point, other than to get your jollies by cutting and pasting smart ass memes here.
If that's all you've got then actually you're looking for a board called DiscoWeb.

Otherwise cut the crap and have a big boy conversation.

[SalemRover]

Big boy conversation huh? My first post in this thread did actually state that these various positions were simply opinions. End of story. Might as well argue who would win in a fight superman or batman. That is my analogy and not a strawman argument, that is really how *I* see it. Stock versus modified as adding or detracting value is subjective and the opinion of each and every one of us. Sorry you did not get that the first time. Citing the meme merely succinctly made my point and apparently that got under your skin. For that I am sorry. I felt a little brevity was needed and apparently it came at your expense. It is time to let this thread go. If you wish to discuss this further I would be glad to via PM's but this is getting a little out of hand and I will not respond to any further posts in this thread.

Sincerely,

Jason

[LH Drive]

Momo, I remember that thread. That's when I was trying to get the same weathered paint effect by wet-sanding and failed. I have an idea of how to achieve the desired affect and will need to spray some test panels and play with it a little. Gonna try and get my hands on some Bronze Green paint.

[Momo]

Chris, post pics when you do the test panels. Weathered bronze green looks really cool. It really brings out all the rivets and spot welds.
One of my trucks is bronze green, but it's still very shiny and new. I'm looking forward to the patina 20 years from now!

When you are ready to order the bronze green check out these guys (they're in WI too): http://www.towerpaint.com/
They can supply in aerosol cans if you like and their paint quality is very good. Make sure to get "deep bronze green"- there's more than one shade but
only "deep" bronze green was supplied on USA Land Rovers so it's probably the one you know and love.