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View Full Version : how do i remove my steering wheel?



Triumphdaytona2007
03-27-2011, 07:44 PM
hey! i am putting a good bulkhead on my series 2a and im trying to remove the steering wheel but cant get it to budge, it is the wire spoked type, ive taken the bolt out of it but cant get it to come off the splines, can the column be removed from the gear box or is there a trick to removing the steering wheel, also how do i take off the metal ring under the wheel i didnt see any screws holding it on, i recently took the wheel off a series 3 and it just slid off no problem so im stumped

albersj51
03-27-2011, 07:53 PM
My steering wheel is different (later IIA), but I just remove the horn cover, undid the nut and it pulled right out.

LaneRover
03-27-2011, 08:18 PM
Isn't there also a 'cinch bolt' on the side? in addition to the bolt in the center under the horn button?

Triumphdaytona2007
03-27-2011, 09:23 PM
Isn't there also a 'cinch bolt' on the side? in addition to the bolt in the center under the horn button?

on mine i dont have a bolt under the horn cover only a cinch bolt on the side, its un-done but still wont budge

LaneRover
03-27-2011, 09:56 PM
i remember having to move mine back and forth right left right left right left etc . . .

You pried off the horn button assembly and there is no nut? hhmmm I remember a nut being in there. But my memory has failed me before!

albersj51
03-27-2011, 10:41 PM
Under the horn and before or after the nut is a lock washer and you have to bend the tabs down.

CMorris
03-28-2011, 09:24 AM
Daytona,
As you know there is no bolt under your horn button, just a splined shaft. On these old banjo type wheels there is just the pinch bolt at the base of the hub securing the wheel. I've run into this before and had luck using PB Blaster and VERY careful heat (Mapp gass or Oxy/Acet.) on the top of the shaft only. Try not to do any prying of the slit at the base of the hub.....I've seen a few of these old wheels destroyed by folks in this situation resorting to pry bars for quick removal. Patience and elbow grease are what it will take.............just like every other job on a Series truck.
Good luck.

I Leak Oil
03-28-2011, 11:29 AM
I've had no issues using a large flat head screwdriver as a wedge. Wedge it into the relief slit and pull the wheel. Just go easy with it and you won't damage anything and you'll still make it easy on yourself getting it off. The biggest mistake people make is they don't remove the pinch bolt. They loosen it thinking the wheel will come off.

LaneRover
03-28-2011, 12:27 PM
Told ya my memory is spotty!

I like the screw driver idea

Sputnicker
03-28-2011, 01:05 PM
Definitely have to completely remove the pinch bolt. Penetrating fluid, wedging the crack, heat and judicious whacking with a rubber hammer are all good ideas.

Triumphdaytona2007
03-28-2011, 05:34 PM
awesome i will try that tonite, i got the pb blaster ready, im trying to keep it in the best shape i can, the wheel is in bad shape now but i hope to have it fixed up by a shop in town, it has a collar under the wheel, is that attached with anything? i couldnt get it to come off, on my series 3 the collar was attached with 2 screws

siiirhd88
03-28-2011, 07:00 PM
The collar is held in place by two screws, accessible from inside the collar once you remove the steering wheel....

Bob

Triumphdaytona2007
03-28-2011, 07:09 PM
The collar is held in place by two screws, accessible from inside the collar once you remove the steering wheel....

Bob

ok great just makin sure they come off together thanks

Terrys
03-29-2011, 08:02 AM
Besides the spline there is a small taper, which is often hard to break. I Sit in the drivers seat, and put my knees on the back side of the steering wheel giving a little pressure, one hand on the top of the wheel applying some rearward pressure, and give the column a smack with a brass (soft) hammer. It almost always pops off with one smack. A smack is a little more than a tap, but less than a whack.

mrdoiron
03-29-2011, 08:20 AM
Besides the spline there is a small taper, which is often hard to break. I Sit in the drivers seat, and put my knees on the back side of the steering wheel giving a little pressure, one hand on the top of the wheel applying some rearward pressure, and give the column a smack with a brass (soft) hammer. It almost always pops off with one smack. A smack is a little more than a tap, but less than a whack.
I like reading this Terry, kinda like soft core.... lol :o

Triumphdaytona2007
03-29-2011, 05:55 PM
tried the hammer + screwdriver method with a whole can of pb blaster and it came off no problem, thanks for the help!!

Triumphdaytona2007
03-30-2011, 08:49 AM
heres my old bulkhead and the new bulkhead the passenger side footwell wasnt even attached it was so rusted out

Les Parker
03-30-2011, 03:24 PM
Is that Special tool # LRT-FIX-IT proping up the old bulkhead?

Triumphdaytona2007
03-30-2011, 09:22 PM
Is that Special tool # LRT-FIX-IT proping up the old bulkhead?

yep sure is i had to special order that one :thumb-up: