The Green wire's connected to the???

[GeoffWillis]

After almost a year, I'm just about ready to start up the Rover. Some quick quesitons. I very carefully labeld the wires when I removed the 2.5 n/a diesel, but the sharpie has worn off with diesel fuel, and dirty hands. I just dropped a new Optima Red top in, and am MOSTLY sure of the wireing. Looks like a white wire running to the fuel cut-off solenoid on the injecton pump, and a White/Brown wire running to the oil pressure sensor (Down by oil filter). When testing, I turn the key to acc position, get voltage on cut-off solenoid, go to Glow-plugs, voltage goes away??? Then crank engine and voltage appears, but weak. I ASSUME, that there must be 12 volts to solenoid to allow fuel to flow, and would assume to solenoid would be powered while glow plugs are on. Wireing diagram is vauge, but I think its right. I've also got a stray green (Ground??) wire just haning near the injecton pump looking for a home. Can post pics if needed. Really want to get it running this weekend. Rebuild injection pump, new lift pump, water pump, timing belt, tensioner... So questions are,
1) What wire goes to injection pump (White I belive)
2) What wire goes to the oil pressure (White/Brown I believe)
3) What should happen on the injection pump durring the acc/glow/crank of engine?
4) Where the heck does the green wire go!!!
5) The hard plastic line from tank/sedimenter to the fuel fiter on fire wall leaks real bad, don't think bajno clap alone will work, effecive way to stop the leak?
As usual, thanks all
Geoff

[kevkon]

Green is hot, ignition on.

[RoverDover]

my 2.5NA Ex-MoD FFR has stray wires all over the place, I will have a looky tommorow morning and let you know what goes where.

[GeoffWillis]

Appreciate any help getting the Rover back on the road. I spent most of Sunday trying to get it running with no joy. Most confusing is the voltage readings on the injection pump:
1) Key in acc position 12 volts on pump
2) Key to glow plug warm up, voltage gone??
3) Key to "Crank" the engine over, no voltage??
Just seems that you'd need that solenoid powered all the time the engine is running, and turning the key off should remove power and kill engine.

I did crack the injector lines running to #1 and #4 cylinders, and noted air comming out, followed by steady stream of fuel. Tignted those up and expected the engine to fire right up, but just cranks and cranks and cranks, no coughing, sputtering or any signs of life. Got good voltage on all 4 glowplugs, pre-heat them 30 seconds before cranking engine. What am I missing? Should be running!!! Will probably check timing of injection pump, but I set that all up while I had the engine out, much easier to do then! Open to any suggestions.

On a seperate note, anybody have experience with the hard plastic lines running from the tank sedimentor to the fuel filter on the firewall? The line from the tank to filter leaks really badly, drops fuel in the engine compartment, and probably lets air into the line. The line appears to be heat-shrunk onto the filter assembly. No connectors, just a hard plastic line fitting tighly on the filter housing. I don't think banjo clamps will seal it, can I just run a standard rubber line instead???

Thanks,
Geoff

[Terrys]

Geoff, once you confirm the IP is timed correctly, why not just jump the shutoff solenoid to the battery to get her running. Then you can sort out the rest. Good that you bled two of the lines at the injectors, but do all 4.
Any loose fittings in the inlet fuel lines will pull air into the system and you'll have to bleed all over again.
without going out to the shop and confirming, Im pretty sure white with a black tracer is oil pressure sender. A said before, any solid green wire 'should' be a switched hot 12+, so I'd think that's what ought to go to the IP solenoid.