ProLine Rear Fuel Tank Question

[MbogoRover]

I am working on installing a new ProLine rear fuel tank on my 109" Series III and I realized today that I need a new fuel sender unit (my old one will not fit on this new tank) so that will hopefully be on order tomorrow.

I am curious though how you all would suggest I connect the existing nylon fuel line to the draw tube that is welded onto the ProLine fuel tank? My fuel line screwed onto the draw tube on my old tank but there are no threads on the fuel line coming out of the Proline tank, just a small tube so I would like suggestions as to how best to make this attachment and thank you all in advance for your help.

Mbogo

[SafeAirOne]

Mine has the nylon fuel line just slipped over the uplift tube about an inch. I have to slide it off every time I remove the sender, but I don't seem to have any issues with air getting into the fuel line there.

[MbogoRover]

Mine has the nylon fuel line just slipped over the uplift tube about an inch. I have to slide it off every time I remove the sender, but I don't seem to have any issues with air getting into the fuel line there.

On your Rover does the fuel line slip onto the sender unit somehow? On both my old tank and this new ProLine tank the sender has it's own place, seperate from the draw / uplift tube.

If simply removing the nut from the end of my fuel line and then slipping the line over the new, fixed draw tube will work that would be great (heck I might even use a small clamp to make doubly sure it stays there and remains a tight fit).

[SafeAirOne]

On your Rover does the fuel line slip onto the sender unit somehow? On both my old tank and this new ProLine tank the sender has it's own place, seperate from the draw / uplift tube.


Yup. Mine's a '73 so the fuel uplift tube is is integrated with the sender unit which is held in place on the tank by a cam-type locking ring. There was no separate fuel uplift tube until I added one to accomodate the diesel fuel return.

[MbogoRover]

Hmmm, okay, so our tanks are different then but perhaps your system/idea may work on this new tank as well ..... I may just have to find out lol

[SafeAirOne]

Well....If you got the Proline rear 109 tank, it should only have a hole for the sender and 2 ports for the fuel vent line that equalizes the 2 upper chambers that go around the crossmember and one port to vent the tank to the filler neck.

This tank only accepts the new style of sender/uplift tube combo, not the older screwed-down type of sender that uses a separate uplift tube mounted elsewhere on the tank:

Strange...I see you have a '74 and you say your existing sender won't fit? I'd think it would fit. I re-read your initial post--You must have had a separate brass uplift tube and a different sender setup. The welded tubes sticking out of your Proline tanks are the vent connections. Save that old brass uplift tube--they ain't cheap to buy new!

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/images/Product/large/PLH650.JPGhttp://www.roversnorth.com/store/images/Product/large/PLH652.JPG

[MbogoRover]

Well, maybe Rover's North screwed up then because the new ProLIne fuel tank I ordered from them back in December or so of last year (and am just now getting around to installing) most definitely has four pipes coming out of the top!

Two are on one side (one to vent to the filler neck and one to vent to the other side of the tank) and on the other side of the tank are two pipes (one that corresponds to the vent chamber and then a smaller diameter tube that is a pick-up / draw tube (I looked inside and it goes down to near the bottom of the tank just as a pick-up / draw tube would).

Then there is the larger round hole in the top of the sender unit (and I would agree, it requires a newer style sender unit as there are no screw holes in it and it won't fit the old sender I took out of the old tank).

So did Rovers North screw up and send my some "special" tank that has an extra pick-up / draw tube welded to it or am I just missing something ?

[MbogoRover]

Well....If you got the Proline rear 109 tank, it should only have a hole for the sender and 2 ports for the fuel vent line that equalizes the 2 upper chambers that go around the crossmember and one port to vent the tank to the filler neck.

This tank only accepts the new style of sender/uplift tube combo, not the older screwed-down type of sender that uses a separate uplift tube mounted elsewhere on the tank:

Strange...I see you have a '74 and you say your existing sender won't fit? I'd think it would fit. I re-read your initial post--You must have had a separate brass uplift tube and a different sender setup. The welded tubes sticking out of your Proline tanks are the vent connections. Save that old brass uplift tube--they ain't cheap to buy new!

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/images/Product/large/PLH650.JPGhttp://www.roversnorth.com/store/images/Product/large/PLH652.JPG

You are correct that my old tank had a seperate draw tube from the sender and I will certainly hold onto that old draw tube - just in case.

[MbogoRover]

Okay, I just got off the phone with Rob at Rover's North and we finally determined that that fourth, smaller diameter tube is the return tube for diesel engines apparently. He said that for a gas/petrol engine it should just be plugged.

That was/is certainly news to me and maybe it will help answer someone elses question in the future should they find themselves installing a new rear fuel tank.

[SafeAirOne]

Okay, I just got off the phone with Rob at Rover's North and we finally determined that that fourth, smaller diameter tube is the return tube for diesel engines apparently.

Yeah...I had originally typed that I believed they were universal tanks made for either diesel or petrol, but then I erased it all when I the pic of the tank showed no evidence of a fuel return port for diesels.

[Firemanshort]

FWIW - the return fuel port is needed for the Stage One V8 trucks with the electric fuel pump and dual carbs.

So the diesel tank works for the petrol or diesel when you are talking Stage Ones.

[rosims]

I used the same tank in my 109. I just plugged the extra pick up and used the one on the sending unit because it has the screen on it. BTW has anybody had any issues with these replacement sending units? They do not seem to be very accurate.

[Firemanshort]

My BRITPART replacement sending unit and fuel float shows 1/4 tank and I am sitting on the side of the road out of gas. Not happy the first time that happened. Also - when I fill up from dead empty - it only takes 12 -14 gallons or so to brim it (tank is supposed to hold 18 gallons) - so I think I may not really be empty or that the pick up tube does not go all the way to the bottom or .... somehting totally else...???

I have been meaning to take it back apart to see if it needs a bend or adjustment on the float arm but never have gotten around to it.

[LaneRover]

My BRITPART replacement sending unit and fuel float shows 1/4 tank and I am sitting on the side of the road out of gas. Not happy the first time that happened. Also - when I fill up from dead empty - it only takes 12 -14 gallons or so to brim it (tank is supposed to hold 18 gallons) - so I think I may not really be empty or that the pick up tube does not go all the way to the bottom or .... somehting totally else...???

I have been meaning to take it back apart to see if it needs a bend or adjustment on the float arm but never have gotten around to it.

If you bend it you need to do it right or it will never read 'full'. Most senders are adjustable. You need to measure down into the tank and figure out what to put the sender at.

I would check the pick-up tube. It could either not reach the bottom or it also could have an air leak from a pinhole in the tube.

[rosims]

The problem with mine is that from 1/4 to empty and 3/4 to full it works perfectly. In between all it does is peg out. When I pulled it and looked at it the wires on the resister are all pushed to the top and bottom. None in the middle. It just looks like it is made very cheaply. If I could adapt my original to fit the tank, all problems solved. But anyway I know when it's full or almost empty. Would like to see a better quality sender. Just a matter of time before it quits all together. My 2CW.