Clutch adjustment

[Alk-3]

Okay, I'm still having clutch problems.
The clutch when pushed to the floor does not disengage all the way.
I've replaced the master cylinder and slave, and bled it perfectly and still the same problem.
From what I'm observing, the arm that comes out of the bell housing, and attaches the the slave via the clevis reguires more movement than the slave is able to provide.
What am I missing here, why does the slave not have enough travel to fully disengage the clutch?
Is there a stop inside the bell housing tha should keep the arm from going up so high? Maybe this stop has been broken off or something?
The truck is in prices in the yard, fender off, and im at a loss. Someone help please!

[rosims]

Did you adjust the push rod coming out of the slave cyl? The length is adustable at the clevis.

[bobzinak]

I too had the same problem, aside from having to pull off the fender to properly access the cluth MC, some folks slice off the rearmost top of the fender, 5 or 6 inched and make a small theaded plate to remate the surfaces, making a small access panel that you can remove to get the MC out. that way you don't have to take off the fender to get at the master.. anyway, back to your problem. make sure all of the slack on the MC push rod is removed. you can tell if your cluthch is fully disengauging by jacking up on rear tire and putting it in first gear to see if the wheel is turning with the clutch fully depressed...mine wasn't either..since there in no adustment on the clutch tranny lever (series 111) I had to "preload" the clutch rod. I turned the threaded rod untill the clutch would disengauge..may not be the "geen book" way, but it was the only way I could get it to work. this may have caused the master cyl to be under slight pressure, but I had tried everthing else I could think. whatever works.. I've been using it this way for years now with no problem..when I had the original series 2a trans in it I had a similar problem, I solved that by making a slightly longer shaft going into the transmission.. Hope this helps..bobzinak.

[TeriAnn]

Look for elongation in the mechanical linkage connections between your foot and the throwout bearing. clearance from a little wear can translate into a fair amount of pedal travel. Be sure to also look at the clutch pedal pivot and the pins and collar going into the bell housing as well as all mechanical linkage connections.

About 15 years ago my clutch released only within the bottom inch of reaching the floor before I went through and replaced everything because everything was worn and elongated. When done, my clutch was released half way along the pedal travel. I think clutch linkage is probably the most neglected assembly on most Series trucks. How many SII & IIA owners periodically lube the bronze spherical bushing on their clutch linkage? How many even know you have one along with a felt washer at each side that can hold oil next to the bushing?

I had to replace my clutch tower last year because of extreme wear on the pivot pin at the top of the clutch pedal.

Wear happens :(

[Alk-3]

I too had the same problem, aside from having to pull off the fender to properly access the cluth MC, some folks slice off the rearmost top of the fender, 5 or 6 inched and make a small theaded plate to remate the surfaces, making a small access panel that you can remove to get the MC out. that way you don't have to take off the fender to get at the master.. anyway, back to your problem. make sure all of the slack on the MC push rod is removed. you can tell if your cluthch is fully disengauging by jacking up on rear tire and putting it in first gear to see if the wheel is turning with the clutch fully depressed...mine wasn't either..since there in no adustment on the clutch tranny lever (series 111) I had to "preload" the clutch rod. I turned the threaded rod untill the clutch would disengauge..may not be the "geen book" way, but it was the only way I could get it to work. this may have caused the master cyl to be under slight pressure, but I had tried everthing else I could think. whatever works.. I've been using it this way for years now with no problem..when I had the original series 2a trans in it I had a similar problem, I solved that by making a slightly longer shaft going into the transmission.. Hope this helps..bobzinak.

i ended up doing as you suggested, with good results. i just had to fuss with the pushrod length, and i had to play with the clutch pedal travel, but ended up getting it to the point where its better than its ever been. previously (even before the major issues) i had to put it into third in order to 'borrow' the synchro's then would flip it into first real quick, to avoid grinding, from a dead stop. after adjusting it, i could just put it straight into first with no resistance whatsoever. after driving it a bit, it has got to the point of grinding a bit again, but thats how its always been so I'm used to it. I'm going to play with it a bit more to see if i can get it to the point where i don't need to borrow the third gear synchro.
anyway, thansl to all you folks for the great help.
i also noticed some wear in the clutch pedal assembly, but don't have the parts to repair it, so i just put it all back together. i will address this next time.

[bobzinak]

follow up..I went to my local hardware store and bought new brass bushings, drilled out the old ones, epoxyed in the new ones...worked fine for 5 yrs so far....couldn't see spending alot of $ for total replacement clutch tower...But I am hesitant to spend $ for something I can rebuild myself....bobzinak.....best of luck on your rover...wish RN still had a forum search...

[LaneRover]

...wish RN still had a forum search...

They do . . . when on the main page of the series Forum page there is a 'button' to click on that says "search this forum". I too have missed it at times.