what should I assume has worn out?

[kwd509]

I am cleaning the frame up on a 64 88". Preparing for POR15. It sat in a field for 30 yrs. When I look at the rear end there is plenty of surface rust but look otherwise OK. Clearly the whole brake system is to be replaced. But, what are the safe assumptions as to wheel bearings, hub seals, springs etc. I don't necessarily want to create work, but while the body is off things are easier to address. Should I assume these things need renewal? Or take things apart (hubs, springs etc?) for examination? Or should I complete external clean up, paint and hope for the best- going back to address things that might later prove defective?

Thanks.

[stomper]

is there any oil in the axels? If there is, and they are not leaking, I would leave them alone. Also if the wheels spin whithout any roughness, I would not replace the bearings. The springs can be visually inspected, and if they are not collapsed, cracked or flaking rust, I would coat them in an oil/gasoline mixture to lubricate them, and let them be. You don't want to go down the rabbit hole too far, or you may never find your way back out.

This is just my opinion, and others may suggest otherwise, but if you can get the truck back together, and running correctly, these things can be replaced easy enough at a later date without too much difficulty. Focus on the brakes, clutch, fuel, cooling, and electrical systems, cleaning as you go, and replacing what is definitely worn or leaking, and you should be fine.

[artpeck]

Mine sat under a tarp on a concrete pad for 15 years so here is my experience for what it is worth. All brake and clutch cylinders, master and slaves. All fluids. The fuel pump as the diaphragm is likely to be shot. The radiator and cooling system will need to be aggressively flushed. By the I mean running water through every accessible opening in both the block and the cooling and heating system until you have free flowing clean water. All hoses and belts. If the seals on shafts etc have been kept wet they should be fine unless you find out otherwise. Tires. The fuel system will need to be cleaned starting with the tank through the carburetor. Fuel filter replaced. Springs are likely to be rusted into a solid immoveable mass. And the shocks are likely to be shot. After i did all of that mine fired up and ran and rolled.

[kwd509]

Great direction-
There is/was oil in the axels..... I opened one axle that I thought might have leaked- but it seemed ok (oil glop now drained and I'll have to replace the drive flange gasket and top things off). But it seemed ok

I like your advice that I leave them and wheel bearings alone.

Have not put the truck on stands yet so do not know whether the wheels spin whithout any roughness- but will be doing this soon, so you have given me a way of proceeding,

You say the springs can be visually inspected and do not appear collapsed, cracked or flaking rust- they seem pretty stiff....

You recommend that I coat them in an oil/gasoline mixture to lubricate them, and let them be. After POR 15 I presume?

You are correct, -don't want to go down the rabbit hole too far and so appreciate your advice as to how to avoid it


am Focusing on the brakes, clutch, and electrical systems.
FYI-
fuel is mostly taken care of except for fuel tank. engine ran in September.
Cooling seemed remarkably clear, but will get some attention as truck goes back together.
Thanks for your help.
Jay

[kwd509]

And Artpeck, a quick response as your input is helpful.....

You said the radiator and cooling system will need to be aggressively flushed.

This hadn't seemed like a big priority....... but it also doesn't appear too much to add to the list, unless the block itself is more involved than I think.............. how many access points are there on the block?

You noted that the springs are likely to be rusted into a solid immoveable mass. The springs and shocks flex with my weight on the frame. But it is pretty stiff. Though by the same token, it would be nice to defer some expenses, as lower priority.......

thanks,
Jay

[artpeck]

On my sIII there are several points of access to the heating/cooling/block that I worked my way through. First the radiator obviously. In the top out the bottom. The drain cock low on the right side of the block facing the truck. I flushed from there using a nipple to concentrate the flow into the small hole and got a s-load of gunk out through the thermostat opening. After flushing the conventional way. You will also need to specifically flush the heater core. With all of that I got a very clean easy flowing system and good heat out of the smiths.

On the springs see if they flex and if so oil them up. You cannot por-15 them and oil after as the por-15 will seal them and prevent the oil from flowing between the leaves. And you cannot oil them and por-15 them. Surfaces have to be oil free for por-15 to stick. Mine were truly rusted into a solid mass and there was no flex. Sounds like yours are better and some oil would help a lot.

Art

[stomper]

Art beat me to it on the springs. Jack up the frame so the springs and axel is completely unloaded. this will open the leaves on the spring some. Take some engine oil, used is fine, and thin it down with some gasoline so it is able to seep between the leaves. Get a cheap paintbrush you never want to see again, and brush the oil mixture into the sides of the leaves. be liberal with the application. Be careful to not get any on the frame if you haven't POR-15 yet. Once you get the truck driving, the oil will work into the leaves as the springs flex. perhaps taking a drive over a rough road or a rutted field to get the axles moving will help.

[kwd509]

Ok art & stomper,
Will deal w springs right after painting frame, but will not paint springs (at least not paint oiling locations/sides of leaves). Seems like the next step is getting up on jack stand to complete frame cleaning, assesses state of wheel bearing and get weight off springs.
Thanks for the help.......

[artpeck]

Oh and regardless of all the adivce and shared experience there will always be surprises. Rarely good ones...

Best of luck and have fun.

[albersj51]

Regarding the springs, I took mine apart and rebuilt them as I've heard the quality of aftermarket springs (not paras) is questionable. Its a huge PITA and I put spring liner from speedway motors between each leaf instead of oil. the leaves look good, but I cant speak to performance since my truck is all over the "shop".

My point is, unless the springs are really bad or you want paras, yours are probably salvagable. Some of mine we a singular mass, but were fixable with time, sweat and cussing. May want to look into greasable poly bushings from GBR for the frame and springs.

Best of luck!

[kwd509]

thanks for the help and advice.
Dragged away from rover by a wedding in Houston. Looking forward to resuming rover efforts. Oddly, even the 'bumps in the road' have been tolerable (now, I've jinxed myself).

[kwd509]

Maybe this warrants a new thread but because the post follows on stompers prior submission i left it here.
In the interest of not opening too many pandora's boxes, stomper suggested determining state of hubs and bearings by examining function once vehicle was on jack stands.......

I was pleasantly surprised by rear end. once brake drum off hub spins smoothly and almost silently. Jubilent, I prepared to focus just on the brakes. Hub and bearing issues, if they develop will be dealt with at that point. But now i suspect I may have taken stompers advice too broadly ........ He said don't change bearings unnecessarily. He did not say don't remove hubs...... And that is the question of the day. Poised to make progress on brakes, I find hubs in the way after drums are removed. Can be worked around but for a newbie like me it will be a Pita.

So, after the long intro, here is the question...... And it will expose my lack of
understanding: What is involved in removing and later replacing the hubs, when the rationale is simply to remove them as an obstruction....?
Thanks.

And, is the fact that this rover likely has oiled rather than greased hubs a consideration?