SWIVEL BALL OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT - HELP!!!

[MarkMukilteo]

I just received a new set of swivel ball oil seals (filling the swivel ball housings would produce a pool of 90W spreading across my garage floor.........)

The thing is - how do I replace these things? I'd assumed, from the feeble drawings I have access to, that they were split, and the split, or "cut" would be placed at 12 o'clock (up at the top). These new seals are solid, round, and won't fit around the swivel balls :eek:

I suspect that I'll have to disassemble the entire front axle, but if anyone has a better suggestion I'd be very glad to here it.

Thanks
Mark

[albersj51]

Maybe this will help.

http://expeditionlandrover.info/LRhubseal.htm

[I Leak Oil]

I've always prefered to keep the seal in tact and disassemble everything. That way I get a look at everything including the swivel pins, u-joints, wheel bearings, axle splines. For as often as it needs to be done it's not a lot of work. Plus I'd rather not deal with water entering the swivels through that split you just put into a brand new seal. If you don't deal with water that's not an issue. For me it is.

[TedW]

FWIW I've replaced seals using the method described in the link and have had great results - no leaks, neither in nor out.

[knac1234]

After asking the same questions a couple of months ago, I too used this link.

Like Ted, after 3 months of almost daily use, I have no leaks whatsoever. I did let the gasket sealer on the cut (at 12 oclock like you said) sit for 24 hours before refilling with oil.

Cheers,
Julian

[TeriAnn]

Like Ted, after 3 months of almost daily use, I have no leaks whatsoever. I did let the gasket sealer on the cut (at 12 oclock like you said) sit for 24 hours before refilling with oil.


I'm happy that a teaching from my Land Rover mentor lives on after him and is still helping people decades later. Scotty helped a lot of neophyte Land Rover owners besides me and I think he would be gratified to learn that he is still helping others.

Anyway, Check the swivel balls where the seal rides. Rust pits there can damage the new seal and cause leaks to reappear. If yours are pitted you should disassemble the balls & either replace or repair them. I think BritParts is the last company to still offer new swivel balls.

If the balls are in decent shape you can use Scotty's method. The key is a very narrow cut. Something with a wide blade such as a narrow cut off wheel will make the gap too wide to seal properly.

It is a good idea to wipe the balls and seal lips clean whenever you change engine oil (4K miles) and during your cleanup when you get off the trail. Sharp sand particles can destroy the rubber seal lip.

[MarkMukilteo]

Thanks for all the input.
I'll be splitting/installing my new oil seals over the July 4th weekend.

Cheers!
Mark :thumb-up: