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rejeep
06-27-2011, 07:08 AM
well my handbrake won’t stay up..
I’ve tried coaxing it.. yanking it, nothing...

I lost the audible ratcheting sound a few weeks ago.. today I was leaving from getting coffee and I must have forgotten to release the brake.. after only 10 feet I noticed the issue and released it..
brake won’t stay up on its own now..

any suggestions where to start.. I haven’t had the need to dig into the handbrake yet aside from the brake drum itself..

mongoswede
06-27-2011, 07:13 AM
if you pull up on it does it still hold the vehicle from rolling? If not make sure the linkage is still in one piece and connected everywhere it needs to be. If it does hold then...I cannot remember how the ratchet mechanism works on the series:D

badvibes
06-27-2011, 07:27 AM
well my handbrake won’t stay up..
I’ve tried coaxing it.. yanking it, nothing... I'm not sure that's what they mean when they say "pump your brakes....." I apologize for having typed that.

I lost the audible ratcheting sound a few weeks ago.. any suggestions where to start....

I think you've identified it. Get under the truck and check the ratchet assembly on the brake lever. Make sure it's operating freely and isn't gunked up or rusted and not working. There is a rod that connects the thumb button to that assembly, is it still connected? There is a little cotter pin that secures that connection. That's where I'd start.

Jeff

rejeep
06-27-2011, 07:33 AM
cool thanks..
things always seem to happen when im dressed for work and really unbale to crawl under the truck...

smukai
06-27-2011, 09:17 AM
cool thanks..
things always seem to happen when im dressed for work and really unbale to crawl under the truck...


That's why I always carry a bright red jump suit in one of the saddlebags of my truck (it's a leftover from a halloween costume)...lying in the dirt with a collared shirt is never fun....

stonefox
06-27-2011, 05:50 PM
well my handbrake won’t stay up..
I’ve tried coaxing it.. yanking it, nothing...

..
When its fixed, if it stays up for more than 4 hrs ,Im told you should seek medical attention immediately:D
Really,am I the only person thats going to run with this!

rejeep
06-27-2011, 08:46 PM
i crawled under the truck this evening and couldnt see where there was an adjustment in the mechanism.. seemed everything was in place and worked as it should.. the notches in the ratchet plate just wouldnt hold the assembly..

badvibes
06-27-2011, 09:06 PM
i crawled under the truck this evening and couldnt see where there was an adjustment in the mechanism.. Sounds correct, there isn't any adjustment to my knowledge either. seemed everything was in place and worked as it should.. Well not really as it isn't engaging/holding when you apply the brake. the notches in the ratchet plate just wouldnt hold the assembly.. There's got to be something wrong with the little "tooth" (I think it's called a pawl) that engages the notches I'm thinking. The mechanism works by the pawl resting in one of the notches when the lever is lifted/engaged. When you depress the button on the end of the lever it moves the pawl out of the notch so that the lever can be lowered/released. It's like the pawl should always be engaged and isn't engaged only when the brake is being released. Hope that makes sense. Maybe the pawl is worn or the end has been broken/chipped off? Mongoswede asked if the brake engages if you lift and hold the lever up your self, does it?

The other thing could be that the button isn't returning all the way to its resting position and is keeping the pawl from being able to engage fully. Is the button stiff or difficult to depress? You could shoot some silicone spray into the end of the lever to see if that frees anything up maybe allowing the pawl to engage better.

Jeff

rejeep
06-28-2011, 08:17 AM
well now doest this just sum it all up...

http://ollr.10.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=6650

I think a face shield, file and a dremmel tonight might sound like a good way to pass the time..

rejeep
06-29-2011, 07:17 AM
http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/pawl.jpg

Pawl looked like this when I took it out yesterday..
5 min with the bench grinder and Dremmel and I had a nice new point on the end of it..
Replacement it is on the short list of things to get to eventually.. as of right now clicks and holds nice.

badvibes
06-29-2011, 08:28 AM
Sweet! Good to see you got it working easily. And there are people here who would give a care about your 5 Jeeps.....

My other vice is a '77 CJ.

Jeff

rickv100
06-29-2011, 08:44 AM
If you have access to a welder build up material on the pawl and grind to shape.

R.

rejeep
06-29-2011, 08:49 AM
I actually traced the broken one and my friend has a plasma table..
I will eventually make a new one..

Jeeps:
1. 2008 WK SRT8 Daily Driver (2012 one ordred 3 weeks ago)
2. 1988 YJ (wheeler with 14 years worth if upgrades and goodies)
3. 1986 MJ (too nice to be called a beater.. but, well, you know...)
4. 1967 CJ5 (Dauntless V6 frame up restoration in progress)
5. 1949 CJ3a (bone stock driver.. future father son project im sure)

6. 1980 CJ7 (gifted to my father when I got married and moved)

several other parts jeeps and a laundry list of past jeeps...

Linus Tremaine
06-29-2011, 09:46 AM
I always hold the button down when I pull up the emergency brake handle so that the pawl doesn't rub on the way up. That way it should last longer.

SafeAirOne
06-29-2011, 11:13 AM
I actually traced the broken one and my friend has a plasma table..
I will eventually make a new one..


Seems like a lot of work for a $20 part. That's a high-side price, too. P/N 50235

rejeep
06-29-2011, 12:03 PM
yeah but its free...
and ill have it in 12 hrs..

my biggest issue with Rover parts is the time it takes to get them..

lrdukdog
06-29-2011, 01:55 PM
As the Mythbusters say " there's yer problem".:p
Jim Wolf