more hub/brake restoration questions

[kwd509]

I have been cleaning up the frame on the 88, and when I got to the rear end I noticed the hubs had leaked oil.
The repair yields 3 questions.
1- does the distance piece on the stub axle always need to be switched out? I was just told me that most times replacement is not needed and the distance piece can be cleaned up with scotchbrite unless there is a clear defect worn into the part. Is this an accurate?
2- The right brake backing plate has a part that is loose. It is where the lower ends of the brake shoes rest on a disk and are secured with a banjo bolt. The round disk spins on the backing plate ( though it does not wobble much at all). Should it be welded tight? And ,it would seem to me that the lack of wobble would allow me not to worry about resulting misalignment, though I am a little concerned with the part being properly aligned so that the shoes ride properly........... thoughts as to how delicate the alignment is?
I initially thought the loose piece on the backing plate was inconsequential, but maybe not.
3 - on right wheel two lug studs came out when I removed the wheel. A mechanic suggested an approach that almost seems too simple.......reinstall them, and use a chisel to deform the threads from the back (as apparently was done originally), and then remove the lug nut (PB Blaster, etc.). Others have suggested replacement with new type studs, though that apparently requires counter-sinking to get the right stud length.......


IN the end I could go to my parts car for a replacement backing plate, and even the hub (to address studs).

Thoughts?

[Les Parker]

I guess its all down to personal choice, as far as the replacement of the seal track goes, if there is grooving on the track, replacement is pretty much mandatory. Some would say, you are 90% there so why not replace it anyway?
A decision that the person working on the job would have to make.

As far as the lower point on the backing plate, as advised, we have had experiences of incorrectly repairs (welded) being made, thus the brake shoes do not sit squarely on the backing plate and the shoes to drum fit would cause all sorts of braking problems.

In the past, it was a general procedure to screw the hub studs back in and weld them from the back, and weld those that had not spun out just to be sure it did not happen to those !

Just my 2p

[kwd509]

Thank you Les,
for elaborating on our discussion yesterday.
Close inspection of the distance piece suggests scotchbrite should be sufficient to smooth things out. So, I will try the simple approach first.
But since I neglected to ask:
Quick question - is the distance piece in stock? I didn't see it online.... cost?


Re backing plate I adopt your concern completely. This is a case where my parts car needs to relinquish a part (brake backing plate) I had not previously anticipated needing. But that is what a parts car is for. So next comes the dissection for the right rear backing plate. Hopefully it is in good shape. Thanks for pushing me off the dime.

Re hub studs: you've given me a simple option. When I get the brake backing plate off the donor, I will also have a look at the hub..... maybe taking it at the same time would make sense.

Thanks again. and re rover parts, "I'll be back"

[o2batsea]

Are you kidding? A few whacks with a cold chisel and that thing is off. So not worth the chance that the new seal will leak on the old distance piece.

[tmckeon88]

I am in the midst of rebuilding my brakes, which is a heart breaking epic in its own right, but just on the topic of the large pin that the bottom of the brake shoes ride on: I had one of those that was broken loose and wobbling for years and I could never adjust the brakes to get good pedal, it was always two pumps to get braking power. New shoes, drums, adjusters, nothing worked. I finally replaced the entire backing plate, which was not trivial, and now I have 4 good solid posts. Getting it all bled is another story- I've already replaced one wheel cylinder and broken off the bleed screw in another, so I'll be replacing that too. But I know that bottom circular pin can be a problem if it is broken loose. If it's not wobbling now, it may be soon.

Tom